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Try trackofthewolf - they may have swaged as well as cast. They'll be pure lead only.
; Time to buy a $15.00 Lee mould at .690", a 10 pound Lee pot for around $10.00, a cheap ladle or bent large spoon and get some WW from a garage near you. Then, a coleman stove and have at it. Free WW balls after a bit of casting to recover the cost of the equipment.
; At the velocity you'll be able to get, WW is as hard as necessary. They'll smash a shoudler on a moose and exit the far side. Should be enough.
; Upsideown shot cups, with eveything cut off(and thrown away) except the gas check work best for keeping the ball centred in the bore. This works better than using the shotcup's shortened petals for centreing the ball. I've done it both ways. So far, the best shotcups to use are the steel-shop cups. They don't have a cushion section, so you just cut the petals off, leaving a cupped inner part that holds the ball perfectly in the middle of the bore.
; if you want to use Black Powder or Pyrodex, you'll need to ut a barrier betwen the plastic and the black powder. Black powder will melt the plastic onto the bore. I don't know about the phony powders - I don't use them - too corrosive. BP fouling is only hygroscopic, not corrosive. Phony BP's fouling is actually corrosive. They don't have the ash content to neutralize the salts and acids produced as in real BP- something like that.
; Pictured is a JeffTanner mould - about $30.00 from the UK. Handles are Lyman or RCBS. Jeff makes any size ordered.

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