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Something that I've mentioned before is the tendency for the restocked rifles to exhibit a "wandering zero", something I attribute to the fore end floating around with out a proper anchor. What I will probably do in the future is use a barrel band or cross pin and physically tie the front of the fore end to the barrel. Comments?

Carpetsahib

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I have had excellent results epoxy bedding the barrel and front guard screw area, ie a full lenth bedding of the barreled action {using release agent, of course}.

Make sure the recoil abutments on the forestock are firmly contacting the lugs on the action, thus forcing the forestock back toward the butt socket.

The rifles I have bedded in this manner shoot phenomenally well, but must be shot with the supporting hand gripping the forestock. A forestock rested on sandbags in bench shooting will give a different POI than will be the result of offhand shooting.

Forget all the gas blown about how a twopiece stocked rifle won't shoot unless the forestock is freefloated. Having said that IF YOU WANT, you can epoxy bed, then freefloat a portion from about an inch forward of the front guard screw to the forestock tip, or...full length bed and then add shims to the forestock tip until upward pressure eliminates wandring.

SOUNDS like it is complicated, but it is not. Full length bed, then shoot, if all's well leave it. If not, add shims. Shoot. If groups still aren't what you think they should be, then free float the forestock. If this method gets worse as you proceed, add more epoxy to the barrel channel, thus returning the rifle to full-length bedded status and be happy!

There, simple as mud.

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