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I believe you mean Octagonal barrel, as a hex is 6 sided and was/is never used for rifle barrels.
: Yes - I like Euro stocks too, like the CZ "Lux" and the old BRNO ZKK stocks. Splinter (short Euro) forends are my favourite for that part.
: I prefer a Sheard gold bead or bronze/brass/ivory round bead to any fibreopticmodernpiceof****plasticsight - sorry.
: There is no bolt action made today that is stornger than the Ruger #1. The will take pressures in stride that will lock up a P-14 or P-17.
: You should be able to get 2,300fps, maybe more, with 215gr. Woodleighs.
: It is best that the first time you fire your new (not reclaimed) brass, that it perfectly fit the chamber or it will stretch foreward at the web. If the brass headspace is sloppy, you can expand the necks to .358 ID, then size them only enough to fit your chamber. This will give a 'false shoulder, or secondary shoulder' which will hold the case back aginst the block for fireforming. Seating the bullets out to though the rifling lands also helps form the cases properly. Once fireformed, never touch the shoulder again, unless you cannot chamber a sized case. Each time you push the shoulder back, then fire it, it will re-stretch again at the web and finally separate at that point. Old bras is already started on that avenue, sometimes drastically, sometimes not so badly. The gross taper of the case is the major cause of excessive stretching even though the bras might fit perfectly. Generally, .303's ar generously chambered and since the rim holds the case back aginst the block, the case blows forward, stretching at the web until it separates. Careful reloading will allow many shots per case, whereas pushing the shoulder bach each time greatly reduces case life. The higher the pressures, the more stretch per firing. You need agood set of calipers for this, dials and digitals are easier to read for most people.
: Watch case overall length. If you can get a reamer print for your barrel, so much the better. Record the measurement from the top of the rim to the case mouth and trim your brass to between .005" to .010" shorter than that max measurement, or use case rim base to case mouth from the chart. Unfortuneately, most charts don't show the total overall length, only from the top of the rim to the mean little shoulder.(45 degree angle ahead of the case mouth) Many charts will show a measurement for the rim, as in .063" (example only)
; Good luck - cool project. I have a Ruger #1 in .218Bee with 6,500 rounds through it. I haven't decided what to do with it now that the throat's gone - maybe a .375 something flanged, just because.
: I preferred the earlier #1 "S" due to it's 26" slim barrel and alexhenry forestock. Most of them I saw had exceptional wood of the 70's Ruger #1's. The actions are identical.
; What to look out for - ?? Abuse? Cracked wrists, I guess. Not much that a guy wouldn't see anyway.

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