Forums.NitroExpress.com

First off, unless the finish issues are significant, I'd suggest leaving it alone. If you must, forget turnaround time. The best are rarely fast. If you're going to diddle with a fine British or European gun, diddle with it British or European. Stick to British or European trained professionals. They do things differently. If you want the gun to be worth your investment when you're done, the difference matters. Is this gun really off face? Odd for a Jones UL.

Unless there are serious pitting issues that you want fixed, avoid re-colour hardening. If you have to do this, stick to established mainstream companies, and make sure the action is completely annealed first. There are very few who know how to do this right. Don't let anyone near it with a torch. J. J. uses Turnbull. Frankly, if I were to have a British DR of mine re-hardened, I'd return it to England and have it done by St. Ledger's, who does much of such work for the British trade.

Ask how things are to be done. For re-blacking, barrels of fine double guns are prepped and carded by hand. If they're going to use a polishing wheel find someone else. Also, inquire about how the re-jointing is to be done. The Hollis doubles ususally have a fixed pin and a round dolls head. With plasma spray and tig weld methods available for the fixed pin guns, personally, I would never let someone dovetail the hook. Also, the dolls head will need re-fitting, and very few do this. The SOP in most shops in the US seems to be to just dovetail the hook and ignore the top extension/third fastener, and that's unacceptable. Of the re-jointing work I've seen in recent years, J. J.'s is really good.

Be cautious, ask lots of questions.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

--------------------
"Serious rifles have two barrels, everything else just burns gunpowder."

Post Extras