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The Verney Carron action I posted had no stoch, forearm or trigger guard when I got it. The bores of the barrels are like a mirror, however the dents and flats from being run over make me think that it would not pattern well as a shot gun. However the $100 price tag was too good to pass up. The guard and forearm Iron I will have to make as I doubt I can find replacements. I will use the remains of the barrel to make a mono block for the new barrels.

Now back to regulating. What I have been doing is to use in reality three wedges. The front one will end up being the front sight, the middle starts out half way back between the sling swivel which is the third wedge and the front sight. When I start, the bores are on the same horizontal plane but when viewed from the top they are slightly converging. This means that in theory they should print the same height but cross about two inches apart at 50 yards
I have found it is best to set your barrels up on a surface plate, (A thick piece of glass will do) and take measurements showing their exact relationship to each other. Write these down for reference. I also check and record them with a bore sighter, one with a graph in it. Every thing is held togther with hose clamps other then the clamps there is very little pressure on the wedges at this point.
Now it is out to the range behind the shop and from a standing rest I fire four shots marking each one as to which barrel. In all probility the barrels will be crossing. This means that the left barrel will be hitting to the right on the target and the right to the left. If this is the case then move the front wedge to the rear a bit. For example, if the shots were crossing and two inches apart I would move the wedge enough to spread the barrels about .004" and try again. Now it would seem that where crossing the barrelswere crossing at 50 yards and two inches apart they should be spread more like .008" but remember the rotational forces since the recoil is not along the center line of the bore.
Go back to the range and try it again after writing down all the measurements and using the bore sighter again. (By the way I came up with the correction measurements by using .001" as 1" at 100 yards or one minuite of angle, this is not quite right and there are other factors but it is close enough for our purposes)
If the elevation is off between the barrels split the difference, this is where a surface plate really helps. If you get to the point where you do not want to move the front wedge any further to the rear or you want to fine tune the regulating a bit use the middle wedge. Moving this wedge to the rear should bring the groups from each barrel closer togther and moving it forward should allow the groups to open up. Moving the third wedge(Front swivel) will have the same effect however you do not want the swivel to end up is a strange location so I only us it for final tweeking as it has less effect when moved. Both the front and middle wedges when moved make rather drastic changes and you can chace your groups all day trying to get it "just right" if you only use them. I hope I have been of some help!

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It is the small calibers that are the biggest bores.

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