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I consider the idea that "one needs a short barreled rifle in the brush" to be a gun writer myth. As a person that often hunts with a long barreled muzzleloader, I have never had any difficulties. To me it is all about balance, with no scope a long barreled gun can be a wonderful thing.

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Glad to see several people have commented on this comment ie " "one needs a short barreled rifle in the brush" to be a gun writer myth."

Not a gun writers myth at all.

I've been several times in thick bush hunting conditions. Sometimes as thick as end of barrel visibility.

A brush hunting rifle has a number of characteristics.

A larger calibre, for the game size. Not essential but a larger calibre size creates a bigger wound channel and is a better killer. Relative to the ga,e size of course. But the .30's and bigger are ideal, and the 9.3's are held in high repute for medium game effectiveness.

Shorter range shots are often the norm. Long range shots are very rare. So larger calibre, smaller case cartridges can well work. A shorter case also means many actions will cycle a new round faster.

Often a brush rifle can double as a running game rifle. Such as a driven game rifle. As a brush rifle might need to be usuable of frequently running game. Both types of rifle need to be able to fire additional shots quickly. If a miss occurs or even worse a wounded animal, the second shot needs to be there quickly. I personally have found it to be very careful when shooting at new game with the second barrel of a double. If you wound an animal, there is no additional shot immediately available. For driven game, two shots only might be considered by some a severe handicap, when the driven game came running through hot and fast.

Quick additional available. Some driven game hunters think a normal bolt action hopelessly incapable and too slow. And insist on these new fangle bolts action like the Blaser and similar where the bolt action is faster. The pump actions, lever actions and semi autos where legal would all fit the bill as well. Lesser need for a brush rifle, but also relevant.

Shorter and handier rifle. Possibly shorter barrel. A place where a double rifle is superb, the longer barrels in a shorter rifle. But pushing through bush with a very loing barrel and rifle IS a major pain, and also harder to bring the rifle into action when required. Snags and stuff getting in the way, shorter is better.

When I detail what a hunter's armoury should include I ALWAYS include a brush rifle in the line up. Instead of the "gun writers" habit of listing every and any cartridge/calibre, instead focus on purpose of use and type of use.
For example:
a brush hunting rifle for medium game, handy rifle, faster working, perhaps shorter, sighted suitable for quick and closer shooting;
a mountain hunting rifle, effective at longer ranges and lighter in weight;
plains game rifle, might be the same or similar to a mountain rifle, but can be heavier;
small game rifle, flat shooting but does not damge meat excessively;
big game rifle, .375 and bigger;
stopper rifle, big bore calibre with an oomph! Might be the same as the big game rifle.

Back to topic. A lever action COULD BE ANY of these, except the stopper rifle, unless it is thin skinned such as lion, bear, tiger etc. Rarely is it a mountain rifle, but as I said in an earlier post, my BLR in .308 could do the job.

Lever actions are often severely limited by the tubular magazines meaning aerodynamically impaired projectiles have to be used. And also impaired by the need for shorter cartridges to be used, if longer range shooting is required. Some designs get around both these impairments.

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John aka NitroX

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Govt get out of our lives NOW!
"I love the smell of cordite in the morning."
"A Sharp spear needs no polish"

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