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Pretty much how I do it with gophers, to about 500yards. My 6-24 m4200 has zeros using the mill dots (at 20X, they are 1.5" apart) to 540yards. Read off the range, check the chart on the scope's bell for the correct dot spacing and take the shot- 1st shot kills on the rats.

For big game, one could easily use lower power and true mil dot spacing (1st plane).

To find my zeros with the dots, I set up a tall target at 100 meters with an aiming point near the bottom, then 1" horizontal lines up the target face. With the gun zero'd on the aiming point, I fire a 3-shot group at the aiming point using each mill dot.

Using a computer program that is close to correct, (Sierra works) I plot the zeros for each mil dot. for example only: say the 1st dot gives a 225yard zero, then 2nd a 300 zero, then 3rd 375yard zero, 4th 450yard zero, lower post 500yard zero, then transcribe that onto a 'sicky' for the side of the scope's bell, or butt stock of the rifle.
Depending on the rifles trajectory and the mil dot spacing at the power you are using, you may have longer or shorter range zeros.
Even a plain "plex" reticle (thin hairs inner circle then thick post outside), some call it a 30/30 reticle, the lower post will give you a zero you can use on big game- as in 250yards, or 300yards- that sort of thing.

Anyone who actually does practice knows how to hold with their hunting rifle for close shots, as in out to 200, even to 250yards with a plain crosshair. It's past this point-blank range, that the dots & range finders come into use. The smaller the target, the more useful they are.

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Daryl

"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V

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