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Sorry to hear that Wayne59. Mine, an earlier rifle also had issues that I corrected.
I cut off the offensive cheek piece, shortened the nipples slightly so the cocks would actually curl over the fences a bit, and filed the rain grooves into the breeches as they should have been made by Pedersoli. I refinished the stock and also removed the 1 pound bar of lead from inside it's buttstock. This improved the handling considerably- making the barrels heavier, for much more accurate offhand shooting. On a DG double, weight between the hands would be more appropriate for fast action. For a Moose and bear rifle, accurate shooting out to 200yards is what is required - barrels-heavy is what is needed, imho, of course.

I also attacked all the silvery parts, T-guard, lock panels and tang with Birchwood Casey's cold blue paste, which darkened them considerably. I also removed the second sight, as it was superfluous after I found the regulations load.

I've been chastised by my brother and the other guys in the BP section of our range for selling it, but then, Taylor says he has less to worry about now that it's gone. I used to revel in 2 fast shots, right, then left on gongs out to 110yards - PBOOM/Clang - BOOM/Clang. It was fun, but there were other toys I wanted more.

For the .54, John, I suggest a l.020" to .022" denim (10ounce) and a .530" round ball of pure or dead-soft lead. The swaged balls from Hornady or Speer would suffice.
Re-crown the muzzles with the end of your thumb and 320grit emery.

A smooth entry is what is required to shoot a decently snug ball and patch that shoots cleanly and never needs to be wiped while shooting.

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Daryl

"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V

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