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Zgunbear,
Don't do any of those things you mentioned to try and fix this, you will make a mess. I went through this including calling the distributor for these guns down in Florida and got no help whatsoever. If I had not had some experience in regulating doubles, I would have been lost also.
Here's the secret to getting your gun to shoot. That device between the barrels with the slots in it is not a screw for adjustment of the barrels. It is instead a blank spacer that is made in two pieces that have been dovetailed together in the middle. In the middle of one head of this device is a small hole with the tip of a plunger showing, that plunger needs to be depressed so that the two pieces of the spacer can be taken apart and taken out.
Originally these spacers were to be sold in different diameters so that a "gunsmith" could adjust you point of impact on the bottom barrel. The problem with that is that they won't sell you one. Because the lower barrel is shooting too high, that means that the spacer is too fat and needs to be turned down. I did this on mine in stages because if you go too far the bottom barrel will always shoot low unless you build it back up again.
Here's the tricky part, you need to measure the distance between the front and mid spacer brackets, on my gun this turned out to be just about 12 inches and I suspect yours is the same. This gives you an adjustment distance, if you will. Then you need to measure your distance to the target and convert that to inches, this is why I did mine at 25 yards). The ratio between these two measurement can be converted to a working ratio.
Since the barrel distance is one foot, this simplifies things somewhat. By converting 25 yards into feet instead, we get 75 one foot segments, this gives us a 1 to 75 ratio. This means that for each one thousandth you remove from the spacer, it will lower the point of impact on the bottom barrel by 75 thousandths at 25 yards. Because you want to lower your point of impact 6 inches, you convert 6 inches into thousandths and divide that by 75 and we find that you need to reduce the spacer by .080" this is exactly what mine was so I know how it will come out.
I used my lathe and reduced it by half that amount just to be safe,.040", and that brought it halfway to the place I wanted it, so after shooting it to verify it, I came back home and reduced it by the second .040" and that put it right on where I wanted it.
The side to side adjustment is much easier,your front sight bracket is pinned onto the upper barrel and the bottom barrel is fitted so that it can expand and shrink according to the different temperatures of each barrel. The pin that holds the bracket to the top barrel, rides in a groove that runs completely around the top barrel, so, in order to adjust the right and left movement of the bottom barrel you simply put a flat bar between them and move it over the way you want it to go.
There is enough friction to hold it where you put it. Always think of the top barrel as being solid and the bottom one as moveable. To begin with you may need to remove the front sight bracket completely so it will loosen up the barrels enough to get the mid spacer out, or you can simply pry the barrels apart till you can slip the spacer out. It helps greatly to have a helper when you do this part. The slots are in the spacer to allow you to rotate it till you can take the two halves apart and the plunger will have to be completely compressed in order to allow the two halves to slide apart sideways. They are dovetailed onto on another. You may want to put them back together while it is being turned down because both halves of it need to be reduced the same amount. Good luck. These are really much better guns than they seem to be at first. Bob

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