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This site has suggestions right inline with what I heard here and a few more.

http://rvbprecision.com/shooting/accuracy-tips-for-the-ruger-1.html

I tried one thing today. I found the forearm wood touching the barrel. Rather than bedding or removing wood, the above site suggested shims. That was to place a shim between the hangar and the forearm wood. I played with 006, 010 and 015 shims and found with a 6 the contact area moved to the right and with 10 it was still touching on the right and a gap opened up at bottom. I ended up with two shims 10 and 15, but the 15 was "L" shaped so it tended to shift the forearm and just provide a nice uniform spacing.

Now an odd observation, the inside tip of the forearm looked like someone took a dremel to it and never applied any varnish? I assume that was factory, this was new in box ordered from Lipsey.

Well, I figured this would be just the ticket, horizontal stringing and horizontal stock pressure. Problem fixed ... time to test fire.

Using my cheep Remington HP (@100 yards)two shots fired - less than 1". Bingo! Third shot 3 inches low. $#!@ crap. Ok. Next I fire my new Hornady ammo. First two sots right through the 1" red spot I stuck on the paper. OK, ok, just give me one more and CRAP two inches to right!

I would say right back where I started. Maybe. Now it seems it wants to shoot. The 4 shots that look good, even from different ammo were two tight groups about inch above the other.

I guess I will try something else. The gun never even got warm. I am reluctant to fight those 1/4 rib screws.

I have to say this. I have two friends with NEF break open 243's that will both drive nails at 100 yards. I have an NEF 20ga shotgun that will group copper solids about as good as this No1. The forearm bolts right to the barrel. The guns are cheap as dirt. And almost as ugly. Nobody is hand loading or playing with shims.

Like the song says "make an ugly woman your wife" ?

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