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The accuracy shooters I sent a lot of time with, years ago, insisted that you put the muzzle down on a pad pushing straight down on the stock as you tighten the front screw first, then the rear.

The front needs to be tighter than the rear, however there can be NO springing of the action when tighening the rear screw. I do not have the pounds of torque numbers, but 35 pounds sounds familiar.

Proper bedding stops the springing that normally happens with Mausers that are not bedded for the first 1/2" to 1" of the chamber area, ahead of the lug.

Never glass bed on a tapered section of the barrel ie: in front of the chamber. Some rifles will still shoot quite well when bed this way, but many will walk their shots as the barrel heats if the taper is bedded. It is definite no/no for match rifles that must maintain accuracy for 5 to 20 or more shots.

I was also taught to relieve the action contact from the sides, front and bottom of the lug. That's important.

These 'accuracy' tips work and can help make a Mauser shoot well enough to think it's a M700 Rem. varmint rifle , but with superior extraction, feeding and gas handling, of course.

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Daryl

"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V

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