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Mickey

Just a few things that come to readily to mind that haven't been touched on;

RIBS - look for any sign that the ribs have been taken off and relaid. If so, the original barrel regulation could have been put askew. This could have been done simply because they have vibrated loose, but could be due to rust formation under the ribs. Or possibly because the barrels have been docked. Look down down the ribs, checking for any undulations. Because it would be extremely unlikely for the gunmaker would lay them other than perfectly flat(assuming he was a "Britt"!!). Any humps and bumps can be taken as evidence that they have been relaid, and the rifle should definitely be taken to the range for test firing.

CRACKED STOCK - Hairline cracks are not always obvious. Put the rifle together, and bend it at the wrist region of the stock, looking for any cracks to open up.

EXTERNAL BARREL REPAIRS - If the barrel blacking looks anything other than original, take the rifle out into sunlight, and look for any localised diffences in the colour of the blacking, indicating that external pitting may have been filled with weld which usually reacts to the blacking (rust process) differently.

BAD RE-TIGHTENING - While there is nothing wrong with re-tightening per se, if not done properly, the new owner will be up for the cost of having the work done again in short order. There are still some scoundrels out there that will take to the lumps with a ball peen hammer or a centre punch.! I have a mate who does this every time he wants to shoot one of his favourite guns! Even so, IMO there is a right way and a wrong way to tighten a gun, and the simple expedient of inserting wedges into the Hook where it contacts the hinge pin is a wrong way, and is easy to detect.Also, when checking for looseness, it is alway a good idea that the gun is not clagged up with excessive grease - amazing how many guns become loose after they are cleaned!

LOCKPLATES - If the vendor will agree, take the lockplates (or detachable locks if a WR of that persuasion) off and check for any evidence of rusting, or whether they have been monkeyed around with in any way.

PROVENANCE - If records exist for the paricular make and are accessible, check them out and make sure they square off against the gun being considered. If maker is still in existance this is usually possible, but records for some other gunmakers are in private hands, if you know where to look. Obviously, we are looking for any depatures from the original specifications, which may indicate barrel re-boring, re-barreling, or worse, a complete conterfeiting.

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