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OK so lets look at this again.

You said
"This a sure way to end up with ammo that doesn't shoot well in one's rifle. Take the 470NE as just one example, it is loaded to five specs by five companies. Try chrono'ing Federal, Kynoch, WR, Hornaday and Norma, or try shooting each in your rifle. "

Yep probably all different to degree. Which is exactly why I said that you want to know what your gun was built to.
If it is an English gun it is most likely that it is Kynoch unless it is a WR built gun, but even then I suspect the ammo was branded Kynoch anyway.

If the gun is new enough to have been regulated for the foreign manufactured ammo then I would expect the maker to tell me what round was used, especially if it is a brand new gun.
Anyway all of the ammo you have mentioned goes about the same a pop, look at Holts sealed bid sale just closed. So if you know what ammo the maker used then go buy it, shoot it, and go hunting.

Regulation: Are you saying that Mr Perodeau shoots the gun once, takes a guess how far to alter the barrels, moves them and calls it good without re-shooting? Although I have never met the man, I am sure he would, if his reputation over there is deserved, have a somewhat more exacting modus operandi.
If you are saying that one has to handload to correct defects in the original regulation that Mr Perodeau has undertaken, then I really cannot comment on that, it must be for him to answer your allegation.

My low tolerance for accuracy. It depends. 4" at 100 2" at 50 will do me just fine on a big DR, because I cannot hold better with express sights in the hunting field anyway, nor can the vast majority of shooters. The bead on most DR subtends more than 4MOA in any event and I shoot to centre bead not 6 O'clock hold as a target rifle. My 404J 98 will do 1" or so at 100 with a 4 power scope in claw mounts scope off, then back on etc with a single load. But it will also do a composite 3" @100 with any mix 4 loads I have here, 3 Kynock one batch 1930 ish SP @ 2150 two later different batches at the increased 2225 and new RWS solids at around 2400 and that ammo cost me around $2 a bang. The Moose I slapped with members here last year, couldent tell you which of the softpoints I used, nor can I.

"The handloader can do more than guess, and his incremental changes in a load can be relatively minute, as he closes in on the unattainable "perfection."

Well that may be so in the final stages, however as you pointed out early in your post there are the variables of powder, velocity, bullet, primer, wad (sometimes dependent on powder).
If you cross multiply the variables, unless you are lucky, you can have to load many rounds before hitting on something that works. Now if you like the process then as I said more power to you, enjoy.
But if you want to go hunting next week it is nothing other than a pain in the arse and should not be necessary on a new gun. Nor is it economic if you consider component cost, travel cost to suitable ranges, dies, scales ,trimmers, lube, presses etc. One could buy a lifetimes factory ammo let alone discounted auction ammo.

Those great London guns that everybody loves were built to go hunting. The English did not reload ammo to any great extent for them if at all. They ordered ammo from the maker or Kynoch and expected it to shoot to regulation. The countless thousands of head of game taken with those guns would suggest that the accuracy was at at least a standard that I could "tolerate"

Regards

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