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Shooting & Reloading - Mausers, Big Bores and others >> Muzzleloaders & Blackpowder

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beleg2
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Reged: 15/08/07
Posts: 591
Loc: Bahía Blanca - Argentina
Muzzleloader cleaning instructions (1862)
      #96637 - 13/02/08 05:46 AM

Hi,
I was working on an article about British guns of 1862, based on one of Stonehenge (Walsh) book and found this interesting instructions.
Nothing new but I love to see how things were years ago.
Martin







Edited by beleg2 (13/02/08 05:48 AM)


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DarylSModerator
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Reged: 10/08/05
Posts: 26533
Loc: Beautiful British Columbia, Ca...
Re: Muzzleloader cleaning instructions (1862) [Re: beleg2]
      #96641 - 13/02/08 06:27 AM

You have mail, beleg2.
; BTW - I prefer a synthetic moly grease on the pivot points of the frizzen and featehr spring as well as the inner moving parts of the lock. This grease isn't washed out by water and makes for smooth working.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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beleg2
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Reged: 15/08/07
Posts: 591
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Re: Muzzleloader cleaning instructions (1862) [Re: DarylS]
      #96667 - 13/02/08 09:09 PM

I thought that would be of interest to know how they clean black powder guns when there was no other kind of weapons.
Thanks
Martin


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degoins
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Re: Muzzleloader cleaning instructions (1862) [Re: beleg2]
      #96670 - 14/02/08 12:02 AM

Very interesting. Thanks for posting.

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DarylSModerator
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Re: Muzzleloader cleaning instructions (1862) [Re: degoins]
      #96699 - 14/02/08 06:51 AM

BTW-many of us have stopped using boiling water, or even very hot tap water when cleaning our rifles and smoothbores. The reason is the flash rusting that happens in some barrel steels due to the very rapid drying and heat which starts oxidation almost immediately upon drying.
; We use cold tap water only, then dry with patches, then spray WD40 into the muzzles until it runs out the vents(or nipple seats. A WD40 wet patch is then run hard into the bores to flush out the excess from the vent or nipple seat and blast out any remaining moisture from around the breech faces. The final thing to do, is to wipe down the outside of the barrel with a WD 40 wet patch and reassemble.
; I've been doing it this way since the late 70's and have not experienced any after rust, even when storing rifles for several years between uses. I live in an area with an average humidity of 50%, which is fairly dry compared to Eastern Canada, around the Great Lakes, especially.
; I think putting the breech of the barrel into a bucket of water and flushing water into and out of the bore under pressure paramount in getting the bore spottlessly clean.
; Cold water disolves BP fouling better than hot, by the way. Note in the instructions, hot water is used only to aide drying the bores. Today, we have water displacing lubricants that can remove any last vestage of moisture, so hot water is never needed and is actually to be avoided due to the accumulative effect of after-rusting causing pits over the years.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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bwananelson
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Reged: 08/10/07
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Re: Muzzleloader cleaning instructions (1862) [Re: DarylS]
      #96708 - 14/02/08 09:10 AM

all i use to clean my front loader is windex never had rust and keeps killing deer year after year,how simple is that it will work

--------------------
THERE ARE NO DO OVERS IN LIFE DONT LET A CHANCE AT A DREAM SLIP AWAY.


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beleg2
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Reged: 15/08/07
Posts: 591
Loc: Bahía Blanca - Argentina
Re: Muzzleloader cleaning instructions (1862) [Re: bwananelson]
      #96734 - 14/02/08 09:26 PM

Daryl,
I still use hot water and non-petroleum lubes.
Not spotless barrels but no corrosion either.
I have never tried WD40 for fear of problems with powder residues. One of my rifles have been some years into the gun safe only with natural lube (commercial lube made locally) and still is perfect without corrosion. I can shot all day without cleaning.
I will have to try WD40 some day.
Thanks
Martin


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DarylSModerator
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Re: Muzzleloader cleaning instructions (1862) [Re: beleg2]
      #96749 - 15/02/08 01:12 AM

I'm not sure what you mean with powder residues?
: I have heard other speak of a varnish left by WD 40, but in over 25 years of use, I have never seen it and think it's just something someone made up.
: I would use a proper antirust agent if I lived in a humid area. WD 40 is great for helping flushout the moisture that might remain trapped in the vent or channel in a nippley gun. After flushing with WD40, one can always use his favourite protectant.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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beleg2
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Reged: 15/08/07
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Loc: Bahía Blanca - Argentina
Re: Muzzleloader cleaning instructions (1862) [Re: DarylS]
      #96823 - 16/02/08 06:00 AM

Daryl,
Beg your pardon for my english.
I try to say that I have read that petroleum lubes do not work for black powder if you leave some WD40 and fire the rifle you get a mess.
Using only "natural" lubes I can shoot all day with minimum claning.
BTW: how do you clean a "patent chamber".
Thanks
Martin


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