Home | Ezine | Forums | Links | Contact
NitroExpress.com: Building a big bore

View recent messages : 24 hours | 48 hours | 7 days | 14 days | 30 days | 60 days | More Smilies


*** Enjoy NitroExpress.com? Participate and join in. ***

Shooting & Reloading - Mausers, Big Bores and others >> Muzzleloaders & Blackpowder

Pages: 1 | 2 | 3 | >> (show all)
BillfromOregon
.333 member


Reged: 27/10/04
Posts: 254
Loc: Sweetwater, by God Texas
Building a big bore
      #41882 - 18/11/05 05:17 PM

Anyone built a big-bore BP rifle, single-shot, percussion in say, 10-,12- or 14-bore? I have a hankering to build a rifle Samuel Baker would be happy to hunt with. Looking for thoughts on twist, barrel thickness, stock and lock supplier, bore dimensions, etc. for a conical shooter.

Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
500Nitro
.450 member


Reged: 06/01/03
Posts: 7244
Loc: Victoria, Australia
Re: Building a big bore [Re: BillfromOregon]
      #41884 - 18/11/05 05:43 PM

Bill

Quite a few Single shot 12 bore rifles were built over here
on the Greener GP Action. They turned out very well.
The other I think is the Ruger No 1 or 3 actions
but can't clearly remember.

I gather the Greener GP Action are strong actons
and easily take a 12 Bore barrel.

I am not a gunsmith and not into BP Bore Guns but
I liked them and they are very accurate.

Though I would hate to regulate one to the sights !!!

500 Nitro




Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
DarylSModerator
.700 member


Reged: 10/08/05
Posts: 26516
Loc: Beautiful British Columbia, Ca...
Re: Building a big bore [Re: BillfromOregon]
      #41911 - 19/11/05 07:32 AM

I've been shooting a 14 bore English Sporting rifle since '86. With .684" ball weighing 484gr., it's a wonderful moose slammer.
: E-mail me if you want for more info.
: I do not consider inlines as muzzleloading rifles, merely modern rifles that load from the muzzle. They resemmble in no discernable way, a side-hammer round ball rifle. They, and scopes are responsible for us losing our primitive weapons hunting season for Moose.
: Conical bullets are not necessary for normal big game including grizzly bears. According to Forsyth, 14 bore round balls will exit an Indian Elephants head and are wonderful for Tiger. In a proper barrel, any hardness of lead may be shot when penetration of bone is necessary. When it's .69" in dia. expansion isn't really necesary.(12 guage full choke is .69". (40pts. of choke)
: Conicals lack shocking power due to reduced velocity. While round balls continue to exit on moose, I see no reason for any extra penetration a conical of that size might give. The recoil would be horrendous, to give a conical of 14 bore, the required velocity, to give a flat trajectory. I know, as I made a mould to cst them from 580gr. to 1,200gr. Slugs must be pure lead, which rivet too much on bone(from testing on bones). Bell himself liked the 14 bore and round balls in it, as quotes by him are in Forsyth's little book show.
: The rifle below, is the one I speak of. It has express sights regulated for 100yd., 150yd., 200yd. and the 300 meter gong at the range I shoot at. It's most accurate load is 6 drams (165gr.2F) which is also my hunting charge.
:
:

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V

Edited by CptCurl (17/07/11 09:55 PM)


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
BillfromOregon
.333 member


Reged: 27/10/04
Posts: 254
Loc: Sweetwater, by God Texas
Re: Building a big bore [Re: DarylS]
      #41925 - 19/11/05 02:32 PM

.500 Nitro: appreciate your thoughts, although I am looking for a percussion rifle.
Daryl: That's a damned bloody beautiful tool you are holding. Stock looks very well designed to distribute recoil forces, and the whole package seems very purposeful. What is the bore/groove diameter, and what twist rate?


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
500Nitro
.450 member


Reged: 06/01/03
Posts: 7244
Loc: Victoria, Australia
Re: Building a big bore [Re: BillfromOregon]
      #41942 - 19/11/05 08:42 PM


Bill

I should have read your original post
a bit slower.

In regards to twist etc, why not just copy
the rate from old ones - their are quite a few
Purdey's, Hollands, Woodwards around that
would show you what's what.

500 Nitro


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
tinker
.416 member


Reged: 12/03/05
Posts: 4835
Loc: Nevada
Re: Building a big bore [Re: DarylS]
      #41947 - 20/11/05 03:58 AM

Daryl-

That thing's a beauty.
I love my sixteen bore double rifles. I'm running .666 balls in one of them, and just got a mould marked to throw .678 balls, I suspect that with pure lead things are gonna be a bit smaller though, and I hope that's the case. I'll be pouring lead in a little while today and will know for sure.

Six drams is a lot of powder!
I'm running in the nieghborhood of 2-3/4 to 3-1/2 drams, one rifle takes more than the other does.
I wonder what your muzzle velocities are with that much FFg...
What kind of MV are you getting outta that thing?
What accuracy are you getting with it?
What is the rate of twist?
What are the bore/groove dims on that barrel?

When you tire of that heavy old iron, you're welcome to drop me a line and arrange for shipping it to me too...





--Tinker

--------------------
--Self-Appointed Colonel, DRSS--



"It IS a dangerous game, and so named for a reason, and you can't play from the keyboard. " --Some Old Texan...


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
BillfromOregon
.333 member


Reged: 27/10/04
Posts: 254
Loc: Sweetwater, by God Texas
Re: Building a big bore [Re: tinker]
      #41952 - 20/11/05 06:54 AM

Tinker: That's one of the many things that impresses me about Daryl's gun: that it handles a six-dram hunting load. That's the kind of power that Samuel Baker always talked about. How about sharing a photo of one of your 16-bore doubles? Sweet!

Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
tinker
.416 member


Reged: 12/03/05
Posts: 4835
Loc: Nevada
Re: Building a big bore [Re: BillfromOregon]
      #41959 - 20/11/05 10:45 AM

This is a damascus barreled 16b pinfire rig, set up for a gamekeeper with a bayonet lug. It shoots quite well.
Those two shots on the lower left corner of the target are the first two I ever shot with it. At that time the patina in the bores matched the patina on the outsides of the barrels. I don't think it'd ever been fired in the 20th century.


This is a fairly close shot of the action on my Mahillon SxS, it is also a pinfire rifle, although it is heavier (not heavy though, the other one is just quite light at seven pounds), has longer barrels, and takes a hotter charge of black powder. It is accurate and very handy.



I have shown these before on this website, so those of you who've seen these please excuse the use of bandwidth.

Oh, and for what it's worth to note, the Lyman .678" roundball mould throws balls of pure lead at around .670"
Should work out great for me too...

--Tinker

--------------------
--Self-Appointed Colonel, DRSS--



"It IS a dangerous game, and so named for a reason, and you can't play from the keyboard. " --Some Old Texan...

Edited by CptCurl (17/07/11 09:56 PM)


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
BillfromOregon
.333 member


Reged: 27/10/04
Posts: 254
Loc: Sweetwater, by God Texas
Re: Building a big bore [Re: tinker]
      #41962 - 20/11/05 11:38 AM

Just gorgeous, Tinker!

Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
tinker
.416 member


Reged: 12/03/05
Posts: 4835
Loc: Nevada
Re: Building a big bore [Re: BillfromOregon]
      #41977 - 20/11/05 01:31 PM

They really are.


That and they fit me well and are very nice to shoot too!



Still, I'm quite curious to hear what kind of velocity that single barrel muzzle loading rifle's getting with six drams of FFg...

--Tinker

--------------------
--Self-Appointed Colonel, DRSS--



"It IS a dangerous game, and so named for a reason, and you can't play from the keyboard. " --Some Old Texan...


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
DoubleD
.400 member


Reged: 23/11/03
Posts: 2399
Loc: Retired in Oklahoma
Re: Building a big bore [Re: BillfromOregon]
      #41988 - 20/11/05 03:12 PM

Bill,

Check with John Appleton for a nice clean GP action. John has a bunch of GP's from England. They are not the cheap rode hard put away wet well worn surplus guard guns. If interested I would be willing to run out to John's for you and find you a nice tight clean one for John to ship to you.

Contact John Appleton - http://users.erols.com/apple1co

Check with Chick Donnelly for a barrel. He doesn't make bore barrels, but my money says he knows where to find one.

Chris Dieter at Pac-nor doesn't list any but my guess is he would build one.

Krieger has a 4 bore listed at http://www.kriegerbarrels.com/

--------------------
DD, Ret.


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
BillfromOregon
.333 member


Reged: 27/10/04
Posts: 254
Loc: Sweetwater, by God Texas
Re: Building a big bore [Re: DoubleD]
      #42010 - 21/11/05 03:23 AM



Howdy Doug: Really aiming for a muzzleloader, but thanks for the info on Appleton's GP actions. Gad: More choices!
Anyway, I would be happy with a 12-bore single that would handle the 835-grain NEI cottonspool, second from right, or the mystery 1100-grain semiwadcutter at right, over 6-7 drams. These two are left over from my brief but passionate fling with a Pedersoli Kodiak .72 double.
(Hope the photo works)

Edited by BillfromOregon (21/11/05 03:28 AM)


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
BillfromOregon
.333 member


Reged: 27/10/04
Posts: 254
Loc: Sweetwater, by God Texas
Re: Building a big bore [Re: BillfromOregon]
      #42013 - 21/11/05 04:51 AM

By the way, I used a Greenhill calculator for the .729 projectiles in the photo above, and the NEI cottonspool needs a twist of 85 inches, the monster wadcutter a twist of 64 inches and a .715 roundball a twist of 107 inches. I think the Pedersoli folks have it pretty well nailed with the 1:86 twist in their .72 Kodiak double.

Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
DoubleD
.400 member


Reged: 23/11/03
Posts: 2399
Loc: Retired in Oklahoma
Re: Building a big bore [Re: BillfromOregon]
      #42015 - 21/11/05 06:43 AM

Oops, Sorry Bill it was 500Nitro that transitioned to the Martini Action.

Well, darn, my mistake.

Here's my plan. Numrich has an 1 1/8 58 cal. 27 inch octagon muzzleloading barrel.

Since the GP is a take down action l thought I would build an inline muzzle loading barrel for the GP. Interchangeable 12 guage shotgun. 58 cal muzzle loader. Not a muzzleloading Paradox gun I know. But a something to take up my spare time when I retire.



--------------------
DD, Ret.


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
DarylSModerator
.700 member


Reged: 10/08/05
Posts: 26516
Loc: Beautiful British Columbia, Ca...
Re: Building a big bore [Re: tinker]
      #42038 - 21/11/05 11:00 AM

I used 2F in this rifle for heavy hunting loads and accuracy shooting. It would shoot up to 3 drams of 3F, equivalent velocity as 100gr. of 2F, but was on the edge of being too high pressure for the patches used at that level with WW balls. The accuracy with 3 dram 3F and light(up to 120gr.) 2F loads was poor - double those of heavy loads of 2F. In other words, 3" at 100 yards was the best it would do with light loads. As well, the trajectory became poor having a short point blank range. It is a delightful thing to have a point blank of 120 yards from a round ball gun where the ball is not more than 1-1/2" above nor below the line of sight. No large bore slug gun can compete with it, out to about 175yds or so. It also shot 4" groups at 150yards, and 8" at 200 yards, using the first 2 leafs. The third leaf is zero'd at 300 meters for a gong target sometimes shot at club competitions. This rifle has never missed that gong, no matter who was shooting it.
: The point blank range of 3 drams 3F and 100gr. 2F is only 80yards, where the ball is no more than 1 1/2" above or below the line of sight.
: It is being held by my hunting buddy, not me. He's the new owner. I traded it to him in a fit of mental illness (HA!).
: Unfortunately, the twist is faster than I'd prefer, being a Green River barrel(out of business now) with .714" groove dia, and .690" bore - .012" deep rifling and 60" twist. I used a .684" ball mould, Italian made with idential appearance to a Lyman mould.Pure lead balls weighed 484gr. and in WW metal, they went 466gr.
: The problem with antique rifles in bore sizes, is that few Engish mftr's used proper twists. Rapid twist rates and slugs (minnie-type balls) were in vogue in the mid 1800's, according to Forsyth, and many had twists as rapid as 36", which is way to fast for a 12 bore rifle for round balls. The problem comes from shooting poorly with sufficient powder to obtain a flat trajectory.
: With 6 drams, my point blank sight was zero'd at 100meters, and only about 1 1/2" high at 60yds. The velocity was 1,550fps with that load.
: Off the bench, it continualy gave 1-1/2", 5 shot groups with paper ctg. loads with .686" WW balls, as well as, .020" thick denimpatches and .684" pure lead balls. The paper ctgs. were used for a fast second shot when hunting, shot to the sights, and gave the same accuracy as patched balls. Their only downfall, is only 10 could be shot in a row, when a shooting a cleaning shot with patched ball and 3 drams of powder was used to effectively clean the barrel. A paper ctg. could be loaded and capped, ready to fire at 8 seconds per shot.
: The styling is straight English - the very best for a hunting rifle there is. It points like a good shotgun, a bit muzzle heavy, of course, but the sights come up exactly on whatever you are looking at. The 1/8" dia. bead front sight is no more than 1/8" off the barrel to the bead's centre. This gives a flat trajectory, and more powder barely raises the ball at all, merely extending it's point blank range as Forsyth said it would.
: I'll be building another, but it will have a 95" to a 120" twist with rifling no more than .008" deep. This will allow heavy hunting loads with hard lead balls and cloth patches, something that cannot be obtained with faster, deeper twists due to the mechanics of moving hard lead into the grooves. Faster twists require a tighter fitting load to seal, something difficult with hard lead. The patch cannot take the pressure of heavy loads, which is actually very low compared to .54 and .50 cal rifles.
: In testing, 267gr. gave 1,700fps, but kicked too much for any benefit it might give.
: TINKER- thanks for showing the Pinfires. Forsyth spoke quite highly of them, but did indicate low powder capacities for these "Lefaucheau Principal" guns. They came into their own, however, with explosive shells for tiger and buffalo.
: I made a slug mould for my rifle, 580 to 1,200gr. (adjustable) but the trajectory and recoil were prohibitive. Since, as Samual Baker said a hardened ball will exit an elephant's head, and I know they will a broadside moose, I see no reason to handicap myself with a slug. the bal is already expanded, and penetrates just fine.
: I have a friend up here, who has a .75 rifle made by my bro, similar to mine, who had to drop his load to 120gr. 2F to keep a round ball inside a moose. This took a few seasons, as he started at 200gr. and dropped 20 gr. per year until he could recover the balls. He used .735 balls, weighing 545gr. & .030" denim patch. It had grooves WAY too deep for such a large bore.
: 3 of us (2 Englishmen and myself)made a 5 shot group at 50yds with Keith's .75 rifle with a mere 100gr. 2F, (2 fired 2 shots) and with the 5 shots, made a 1-1/2" group, offhand. These were modern rifle shooters, but fellows who practise.


--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V

Edited by Daryl_S (21/11/05 11:14 AM)


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
DarylSModerator
.700 member


Reged: 10/08/05
Posts: 26516
Loc: Beautiful British Columbia, Ca...
Re: Building a big bore [Re: DoubleD]
      #42044 - 21/11/05 11:38 AM

Ed Rayl makes 'bore' barrels with up to 95" twists and the proper shallow rifling. I am getting aline on another US maker who will cut any size, any twist desired. I'l psot it when I can.
: A good place to ask is the www.americanlongrifles.com forum. Most of the very best riflesmiths in North America frequent the forum.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
tinker
.416 member


Reged: 12/03/05
Posts: 4835
Loc: Nevada
Re: Building a big bore [Re: DarylS]
      #42069 - 21/11/05 04:35 PM

Hey Daryl, thanks for the notes.

The rifles I pictured in my last post there are both early 1860's *more modern* patent actions with fairly heavy double lump bites and 'T' shaped bolts. The original Lefaucheux patent action often referenced in comparison to british guns bearing the Jones patent featured only a single bite. What I have are a couple of european guns with action features very much like the Jones system (double bite, screw action, underlever), but with the lever pointing forward instead of back under the trigger guard, and with rather stout engagement with the solidly-hinged forend.

This is a bit of detail of the shorter, lighter of the two, the photo was to show the sights, but you'll get the idea.




Here's the bolt and scalloped action 'flats' Note the strong present case colors. This gun was a rack queen for over a hundred years!


Here you can see two more lugs which engage in the locking features of the forend. The lockup on the Mahillon is very similar. Both of these rifles lock up amazingly tight, are very solid, and have yet to have thier actions adjusted.






--Tinker

--------------------
--Self-Appointed Colonel, DRSS--



"It IS a dangerous game, and so named for a reason, and you can't play from the keyboard. " --Some Old Texan...

Edited by CptCurl (17/07/11 09:57 PM)


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
DarylSModerator
.700 member


Reged: 10/08/05
Posts: 26516
Loc: Beautiful British Columbia, Ca...
Re: Building a big bore [Re: tinker]
      #42095 - 22/11/05 02:01 AM

The photos are GREAT, Tinker. Beautiful. Thanks for the explanation on the guns.
: Were the sights to 150yards only? The short cases with limited capacity would sound about right for 150yards.
: Mine, on the other hand, reflect slightly flatter trajectory. The standing sight lump is 100, first leaf, 150yd and second 200, while the third is 300 meters(328yards)
: Tha that one beautiful rifle, Tinker! You are a very fortunate man to own one, let alone two lovely pieces.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
tinker
.416 member


Reged: 12/03/05
Posts: 4835
Loc: Nevada
Re: Building a big bore [Re: DarylS]
      #42143 - 22/11/05 01:02 PM

Daryl-

I have yet to shoot over that third rear sight.
I'm working with the modern formed brass sixteen bore hulls to neck them down (just a tad) to take the roundball. As I just got a new mould hoping it'd throw balls that are more round than my 19th century vintage pincher-type mould (it's a lyman -- not perfect, but good enough), the balls from the new mould are a tad bigger in diameter and I want to run them to see what kind of difference that all makes before I commit to dimensions for my dies...
Once all's sorted I'll get those sights sorted too.
The notches are soooo tiny, they're very difficult to use at this point and I really think that they were simply struck with a center notch from which to file down to regulation height.
I'll just see what happens as I get the loading gear together for that nice little light rifle.
Over a hundred yards it's a pretty darn flat shooting rifle though. After a lot of research, questioning, referencing... I settled on a 2-1/2 Dram FFg starting load and I was pleased. I haven't chronographed that gun yet, but from the sound of things I'd guess I'm getting velocities in the fourteen hundreds to fifteen hundreds.
The gun hits hard and quick and the roundball has the sizzling hiss of supersonic frieght train performance.
If I can ever get my chrono to work for me when I'm shooting the bore rifles I'll be in business and will definitely report performance.


These muzzles sing such a sweet tune...




--Tinker

--------------------
--Self-Appointed Colonel, DRSS--



"It IS a dangerous game, and so named for a reason, and you can't play from the keyboard. " --Some Old Texan...

Edited by CptCurl (17/07/11 09:58 PM)


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
BillfromOregon
.333 member


Reged: 27/10/04
Posts: 254
Loc: Sweetwater, by God Texas
Re: Building a big bore [Re: tinker]
      #42157 - 22/11/05 04:19 PM

Daryl, Tinker: You've added so much to this thread. Thanks!
Daryl: I absolutely agree about English sporting rifle stock design as being the proper way to make recoil manageable. It stuns me that so few stockmakers seem interested or even aware of the relatively straight stock with generous butt.
By the way, I believe Joe at www.thegunworks.com will cut just about any barrel size and twist. I may turn to his Oregon Barrel Works for a .69 or larger tube.


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
tinker
.416 member


Reged: 12/03/05
Posts: 4835
Loc: Nevada
Re: Building a big bore [Re: BillfromOregon]
      #42187 - 23/11/05 01:16 AM

Bill-

I wish I could add more performance information to what I've shown with my guns. I have seen very little information anywhere on the loading and shooting of the sixteen bore black powder rifle. Seems every time I get out to shoot the bore rifles my chrono gets bitchy. I've thought of getting a screen light for it to ensure that there's consistent light to allow the eyeballs to properly meter.
I need to call the manufacturer too to make sure I have exhausted all possible field troubleshooting protocols as well. You'd think that a projectile larger than 5/8" diameter would easily trip a chronograph...

All in time.

Both my guns have straight grip, fairly straight layout stocks as well. Recoil doesn't seem to me to be an issue.
And for what it's worth, I really like the straight grip for these guns.


--Tinker

--------------------
--Self-Appointed Colonel, DRSS--



"It IS a dangerous game, and so named for a reason, and you can't play from the keyboard. " --Some Old Texan...


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
DarylSModerator
.700 member


Reged: 10/08/05
Posts: 26516
Loc: Beautiful British Columbia, Ca...
Re: Building a big bore [Re: BillfromOregon]
      #42204 - 23/11/05 05:56 AM

Bill - thanks for the barrel makers address. I find great pleasure in sharing what has worked for me, hoping this experimentation will advance other's enjoyment in the sport.
: Tinker-- it is possible you are getting in the relm of 1,100fps to 1,200fps due to no gas leakage at the breech, being a ctg. gun compared to a muzzleloading rifle. 2 1/2 drams is pretty light to expect more. I will be interested in hearing your actual chronographed results. With double guns, the thickness of the barrels towards the breech, adds considerably to the elevation given the ball. The thicker the barrels, the higher the elevation given. Of course, you are compelled to use a load that will regulate the barrels as well. It is possible, Swiss powder will be the best for that. In intermediate target will show actual elevation. By that, I mean, have a load zero'd at 100yds. Then with that sight picture, shoot at 50 yds and note the elevation given the ball. The higher the sights are above the barrel, the shorter the actual point blank range, and more powder merely gives greater elevation, without extending the point blank range. With low sights, more powder merely makes the ball fly further, without adding more than 1/2" or so to the elevation.
: The lock on my smokepole is a good one, with a buggy spring-type main spring. The cap is opened at the front when fired, but remains on the nipple until the cock is pulled back. There is very little escapement tof gas, but some, of course, or the cap wouldn't be opened up at the front edge.
: This statement pertains mostly to muzzleloading rifles. It is a wonderful thing, to have 100yd or further point blank range with a large bore rifle. The ball, in it's trajectory, travelling no more than 1 1/2" above, nor below the line of sight to that range. Low sights and a 14 or 16 bore rifle will deliver this, if sighted properly, and having the proper depth and twist of rifling.
: Fellows I shoot with, & have tried my .684 RB's in their 12 bore choked guns, and have loaded thin cloth patched round balls in their shotshell cases. This may work with yours as well, Tinker, if the ball is slighty undersize to the groove. Even from a smoothbore duck gun, they were getting 5" accuracy at 50 yds. rest shooting, elbows on the truck hood and single bead front sight.(with smokeless powder)
: I have used the cup base from retrieved trap wads(at the range). When the top piece is cut off it leaves a cup of plastic with flat base. I seated 1 or more as needed card wads on the black powder charge, then a plastic cup on the wads, cup upwards, The cup held the ball in the middle, and I merely crimped the hull over the ball. This load system shot about the same as their patched balls, but of course, if patched balls with LeHigh Valley lube or some other BP lube, keeps the barrel's fouling soft and easily removed. My 12 bore BP loads without a cleaning patch, left the fouling hard and caking. The cloth patch on a slightly undersized ball turned out to be a good move in regards to clean shooting. It might be worth a try.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
tinker
.416 member


Reged: 12/03/05
Posts: 4835
Loc: Nevada
Re: Building a big bore [Re: DarylS]
      #42224 - 23/11/05 01:14 PM

Daryl-

Lots of good info there.

The way I load my cartridges is such:
RWS percussion cap under the firing pin, tiny little dab of crazy glue on the firing pin at the rim, I throw the BP over that assembly then press a cupwad made from milk carton material in my special little bench made die set pushing the powder firmly with the sixteen bore rammer -- then I take specially made donut shaped quarter inch thick saddle felt wads soaked through with Wonder Lube paste, add a little more wonder lube in the hole in the middle of the wad, then press the roundball on top of the donut shaped wad.
From there I load them and fire them.

I make the saddle felt wads in the shape of a donut so as to have the pressure head against the powder and cup wad *expand* the outside diameter of the felt wad against the bore of the barrels. The roundball acts as a wedge, opening the ring of lubed felt. I find that with this arrangement the powder fouling is soft and I don't need to clean between shots.
I've tried it without the wonder lube and the results are like what you describe, hard caked powder residue.


I don't know if I'll be able to get the rifle out to shoot before the new year, I have a lot of work and some travel coming up (I'm in the middle of it!)
Once I get the rifle out again, I'll get the chrono out and see if I can get some MV times to post.


--Tinker

--------------------
--Self-Appointed Colonel, DRSS--



"It IS a dangerous game, and so named for a reason, and you can't play from the keyboard. " --Some Old Texan...


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
DarylSModerator
.700 member


Reged: 10/08/05
Posts: 26516
Loc: Beautiful British Columbia, Ca...
Re: Building a big bore [Re: tinker]
      #42267 - 24/11/05 02:40 AM

Tinker - sounds like the perfect wad set-up. The way the wad is forced out onto the barrel is an excellent idea.
: If you want to try a home made lube that I've found to work incredible with ctg. guns and ML's with slugs, it's the 60/40 beeswax, vaseline. I got the formula from Paul Mathews books and it works splendidly. You can vary the beeswax or vaseline up or down, depending on how hard you want it. 60/40 makes for an easy lube to use by hand.
: Another one is 3 ouces Beeswax, 6 ounces Castor Oil and 2 ouces Murphy' oil Soap. Melt the wax and add the Castor oil, then when hot, add the Murphy's and whip the combinaton into a lather, pour into containers and let cool. Again, the amount of wax can be reduced to soften the lube. The above will make a relatively hard lube. The murphy's is necessary as it combines the wax and castor which won't blend without out. It's a good lube, and may make a good water proofer for boots as well.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
BillfromOregon
.333 member


Reged: 27/10/04
Posts: 254
Loc: Sweetwater, by God Texas
Re: Building a big bore [Re: DarylS]
      #42270 - 24/11/05 03:37 AM

Tinker: Agree with Daryl about the wad setup. Make a lot of sense. As to lubes, I have had good luck with another of Paul M.'s formulas: 2 parts beeswax to 1 part neetsfoot oil and 1 part Murphy's Oil Soap.

Daryl: Have you considered building a round ball gun larger than .72-.75? I think it is the Colorado gunmaker Jim Gefroh who has dome some serious hunting in Africa with 8-bore flinters. I don't think I would want to go any larger than that, but in my dreams, I would love to hunt Cape buff with a round ball gun someday, and I think a 12- or 10-bore, well built, would do the work. Obviously a 14-bore like yours is more than up to folding elk, moose, caribou and probably most of the African plains game.


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
Pages: 1 | 2 | 3 | >> (show all)



Extra information
0 registered and 13 anonymous users are browsing this forum.

Moderator:  DarylS 

Print Topic

Forum Permissions
      You cannot start new topics
      You cannot reply to topics
      HTML is disabled
      UBBCode is enabled

Rating:
Topic views: 25277

Rate this topic

Jump to

Contact Us NitroExpress.com

Powered by UBB.threads™ 6.5.5


Home | Ezine | Forums | Links | Contact


Copyright 2003 to 2011 - all rights reserved