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I've shot the 6.5 Creedmore in both a bolt gun and an AR10. It's a good idea but if you don't reload you should pass on it. The Hornady brass isn't that good.

In the 6.5 class of cartridges I would vote for the 6.5 SAUM. I've got 600-700 rounds through mine and it's a tack driving hammer. At this point I'm shooting necked down and turned 300 SAUM brass from Norma, my pet load is driving the 142gr SMK at 3210fps to great success. This cartridge shoots flat and has decent barrel life, so far. I've shot it out to just under 1500yds.

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The SAUM has been working well for me, I'm planning to shoot an ELR PRS match in Wyoming in a few weeks, the targets will range from 500-1800yds. I'm debating whether to take the SAUM or the 338LM, the LM shines out past 1000yds but you pay for in recoil.

Another cartridge that's been shooting well for me is the 243 30deg improved. With H1000 and the 115gr DTAC its not too hard to shoot groups that are hard to measure they are so small. Accuracy has been great out to 1400yds.

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Will do. There are a number of quality cartridges based off of the .243: the 6xc, 6slr, 6cm .243AI, etc. I used the .243 30deg Imp by Robert Whitely (http://6mmar.com) with the long throat. David Tubb has a new version of the 115gr DTAC out that has a significant improvement in BC that I'm interested in trying.

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G'Day Fella's,

Ripp, the Creedmoor appears to be an American version, of the original 6.5 x 47 Lapua cartridge.
Both are great little cartridges, and kind of like a 22-250/250 Savage case, necked up to 6.5mm and blown out (but not AI like improved).
I have had a 6.5 x 47 Lap barrel for my Rem 700 switch barrel rifle for a few years now.
It shoots way better than I can......(but I'm trying to improve)!
I reload Moly coated 140/142grain bullets, at a safe 2700 fps, from the 26" Lilja 1 in 8", 3 groove barrel.

Also, I see there's an article on the 6.5 Creedmoor, in the current Rifle magazine (it's their 50th Anniversary, Give Away rifle).

Doh!
Homer

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The SAUM has been working well for me, I'm planning to shoot an ELR PRS match in Wyoming in a few weeks, the targets will range from 500-1800yds. I'm debating whether to take the SAUM or the 338LM, the LM shines out past 1000yds but you pay for in recoil.

Another cartridge that's been shooting well for me is the 243 30deg improved. With H1000 and the 115gr DTAC its not too hard to shoot groups that are hard to measure they are so small. Accuracy has been great out to 1400yds.

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Moly 'fouling' can be removed with just a wet patch or two using "Moly Solve" - was made in Saskatchewan and sold by Russell Sports in Calgary - no longer there.
It's like to get some more - it seemed pretty good on copper too.
I haven't gone looking for it for 12 years, when I bought my last bottle.

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Moly 'fouling' can be removed with just a wet patch or two using "Moly Solve" - was made in Saskatchewan and sold by Russell Sports in Calgary - no longer there.
It's like to get some more - it seemed pretty good on copper too.
I haven't gone looking for it for 12 years, when I bought my last bottle.

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Most of the guys I know, including myself quite using them a long time ago...don't see the need along with the extra issues..each to their own I guess...

thx

Ripp

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I've never had any "issues" using moly coated bullets.
I've cleaned my CF .17's every 600 (.17Rem) to 1,000 rounds (.17AH) after using moly's bullets - no accuracy loss in those figures, just figured I should clean them.

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Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V

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Moly 'fouling' can be removed with just a wet patch or two using "Moly Solve" - was made in Saskatchewan and sold by Russell Sports in Calgary - no longer there.
It's like to get some more - it seemed pretty good on copper too.
I haven't gone looking for it for 12 years, when I bought my last bottle.

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Most of the guys I know, including myself quite using them a long time ago...don't see the need along with the extra issues..each to their own I guess...

thx

Ripp

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I've never had any "issues" using moly coated bullets.
I've cleaned my CF .17's every 600 (.17Rem) to 1,000 rounds (.17AH) after using moly's bullets - no accuracy loss in those figures, just figured I should clean them.

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I used the old Winchester fail safes --great bullet. Back in the day when they first come out..worked awesome in elk...but at that time I did have a heck of a time getting it out of my Browning bolt barrel in 300 Win...and had not really shot that many rounds through it..guess I was using the wrong solvent??

Based on what I read from various barrel manufacturers, it must build up a film or sorts. I just put a "Proof" barrel on another rifle. in its instructions it states to not use any moly bullets in it for at least the first 100 rounds...guessing it is similar in reason to used the Barnes??..as I have read similar info for those as well...guessing softer copper adheres more readily to slight imperfections in barrels when breaking them in??

Thx

Ripp

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ALL MEN DIE, BUT FEW MEN TRULY LIVE..

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They want you to slick up - polish the barrel first, before using moly or pure copper bullets.

Same deal with Amsoil Oil Motor Oil - advised to put 5,000 to 8,000 miles on the engine to break/wear it in before switching to the synthetic - need to break it in first with cheap normal oil, then put in the good stuff and stop wear at that point.

Most standard solvents will not touch moly fouling.

Most barrels, if cleaned back to steel, or if naked bullets are shot, you may need to fire 5 to 15 moly coated bullets to re-coat the bore with moly, before they start shooting perfectly again. Depending on the cartridge's size, it can take .2gr. to 2.0gr. to re-achieve the velocity loss when switching to moly coated bullets. The larger the case, the more powder it takes.

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They want you to slick up - polish the barrel first, before using moly or pure copper bullets.

Same deal with Amsoil Oil Motor Oil - advised to put 5,000 to 8,000 miles on the engine to break/wear it in before switching to the synthetic - need to break it in first with cheap normal oil, then put in the good stuff and stop wear at that point.

Most standard solvents will not touch moly fouling.

Most barrels, if cleaned back to steel, or if naked bullets are shot, you may need to fire 5 to 15 moly coated bullets to re-coat the bore with moly, before they start shooting perfectly again. Depending on the cartridge's size, it can take .2gr. to 2.0gr. to re-achieve the velocity loss when switching to moly coated bullets. The larger the case, the more powder it takes.

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Makes sense--as I normally run and have for a very long time synthetic oil in all my vehicles..was told a long time ago not to do that until I have it to get it properly broke in...

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What about cars that use synthetic oil from the factory?

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Saw this on RIFLE SHOOTER MAGAZINE --6.5 Creedmore Load Development.

http://rifleshooter.com/2016/05/6-5-cree...nd-reloader-17/


Ripp

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