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Double Rifles, Single Shots & Combinations >> Building Double Rifles & Gunsmithing

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TennHillBilly
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Reged: 17/05/13
Posts: 69
Loc: Tennessee Plateau
Re: Suitable steels for monoblock? [Re: TennHillBilly]
      #265320 - 21/05/15 05:12 AM




First pic shows where the barrels have been turned, with still a bit of turning, fitting shoulders etc. to do. The barrels are not exactly the same in length, basing that on the remainder of the old cartridge's neck remaining. That can barely be seen in the left barrel.
The red ink shows where a laser hit when I was about 1/3 into the monoblock. The black, where it is now. While this may not be precise, it gives me an idea how far off I might be.
I must admit, boring and reaming that last few thousands was a bear! I bought an expanding 13/16th reamer with a Morse 2 taper to fit the tailstock. The barrels I chucked in the 4 jaw and worked to about .003. If were going to do this often, I would invest in, or have made, spider for the outside of the lathe spindle. Of course, in a perfect world, I'd have a long bed lathe and turn between centers. Since the bbls will get forced about in the regulation process, I'm not sure such precision is necessary.....we'll see!
The 1.144" is the distance of the firing pins' center line. The plan, as of today is that once the barrels are finalized and I'm satisfied with the fit, I'll hard silver solder the lumps in place. Soon I'll be able to get rid of a 'ton' of excess steel from the monoblock!


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TennHillBilly
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Reged: 17/05/13
Posts: 69
Loc: Tennessee Plateau
Re: Suitable steels for monoblock? [Re: TennHillBilly]
      #265452 - 24/05/15 06:15 AM



Almost have the barrels seated where I want them. Some facing on the left to be done. I'll have to do some final 'tweaking' on the rib extension/dollshead, as I left it a bit proud. My next concern was the concentricity of my work. A short piece of dowel to show where the strikers are hitting....so far, I think O.K. There is enough eccentricity in my barrels I can rotate and move the laser point. In a perfect world: turn between centers. For a double, eccentricity may not be a bad thing. The mid spacer and end will be pulling the bbls together. I think the Force 44 is the right stuff for the bbls. Next, it's a lot of grinding to get rid of the heavy excess steel. The little 'target' is marked with the 3L 3R with the bbls more or less seated.

Edited by TennHillBilly (24/05/15 06:18 AM)


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TennHillBilly
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Reged: 17/05/13
Posts: 69
Loc: Tennessee Plateau
Re: Suitable steels for monoblock? [Re: TennHillBilly]
      #265617 - 28/05/15 06:53 AM


First few passes to mill out ejector recess. Dremel used to start the groove for the ejector guide extension. The ejector will be about 3/16th's. Barrels 'short chambered'. The lumps will require a notch to clear the ejector. Once the ejector recess is finished, and the ejector made, the barrel recess cuts will be made to accommodate the ejector. After that, the monoblock should be ready to grind away all the excess, solder bbls. and lumps and start final fitting, then the bbls. final reaming.


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TennHillBilly
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Reged: 17/05/13
Posts: 69
Loc: Tennessee Plateau
Re: Suitable steels for monoblock? [Re: TennHillBilly]
      #265976 - 06/06/15 06:02 AM


The extractor is roughed out here, just grinding the cartridge carriers to approximate size, don't want to put to much stress on the reamer. The push rod will have a shoulder cut and silver soldered in place. The barrels will have a quarter section roughed out to accommodate the extractor. After soldering the barrels, it will be filing, stoning and sanding to finish the barrel 'cuts'. The marker lines show just how much excess steel has to be cut, ground and filed away!

Edited by TennHillBilly (06/06/15 06:06 AM)


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TennHillBilly
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Reged: 17/05/13
Posts: 69
Loc: Tennessee Plateau
Re: Suitable steels for monoblock? [Re: TennHillBilly]
      #266720 - 20/06/15 04:02 AM

Just to show what a grinding wheel can do.......well, and a belt sander, disc sander, hacksaw and file can do. Should have taken a pic after just grinding away, talk about UGLY!

Still a lot of steel to take off.

I started here to layout an Anson style forend using a Fox Stevens part since an AyA part seems elusive. The 'circle' portion is the same. Easier than trying to bore out a piece with equipment I don't have. I'm going to try and build a lever style forend, seems simple but any info is eluding me.


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TennHillBilly
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Reged: 17/05/13
Posts: 69
Loc: Tennessee Plateau
Re: Suitable steels for monoblock? [Re: TennHillBilly]
      #267635 - 09/07/15 04:59 AM


This is my attempt at roughing out a lever style latch. The lug and 'bite' will be sandwiched between two semi-circular steel 'wedges' soldered between the barrels. I broke my bandsaw blade and still waiting for my new blade nearly 3 weeks now....what service! Lever releases, known as Rigby style, Harvey Grip, Lefaucheaux, Grip forend, have lots of pics showing beautifully engraved levers, but, I've found only one pic that shows something of the mechanics.


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TennHillBilly
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Reged: 17/05/13
Posts: 69
Loc: Tennessee Plateau
Re: Suitable steels for monoblock? [Re: TennHillBilly]
      #268394 - 23/07/15 09:17 AM

A pic of the forend system. Even though nothing is soldered, the system provides a good lock-up. Most lever releases I've seen pics of have a metal nose cap which I believe houses a spring pin or ball. Along with a detent in the release arm it provides a positive lock. The ease of the lever is quite surprising, I have 3 shotguns with push-button releases which are fairly hard to operate. I'm guessing the relative speed of disassembly made the lever system desirable with doubles. I saw a pic in a book I have showing 6 doubles in a rack, at least 4 had the lever.
Another view of the right side of the monoblock getting ground down. I grind, then use a 50 grit belt sander, then a disc sander. Then, the files. After the barrels are done, I'll go back to the forend and remake with more care.




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DarylS
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Reged: 10/08/05
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Loc: Beautiful British Columbia, Ca...
Re: Suitable steels for monoblock? [Re: TennHillBilly]
      #268395 - 23/07/15 11:14 AM

Coming along - I see you have a M74 Sharps as well. Nice.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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TennHillBilly
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Reged: 17/05/13
Posts: 69
Loc: Tennessee Plateau
Re: Suitable steels for monoblock? [Re: DarylS]
      #268486 - 25/07/15 12:13 AM

Thanks! That's actually the .54 cal 1863 'paper cutter' version. A fun gun to shoot. Has more felt recoil than my .416 Rigby Ruger 1. I make up the paper cartridges with the Sharps 'Xmas tree' bullets. I'd say it was my favorite....but then, they're all my favorite! I have yet to try any of the Billy Dixon long shots with it. Bill

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TennHillBilly
.275 member


Reged: 17/05/13
Posts: 69
Loc: Tennessee Plateau
Re: Suitable steels for monoblock? [Re: TennHillBilly]
      #269007 - 07/08/15 01:23 AM



So, the lumps are finally hard soldered/brazed in place. This, however, took 3 tries to get a good fit! First the lumps should be a good 'snug' fit in the monoblock. I had too loose a fit. The lumps 'settled' downward and the assembly wouldn't close on the action. There must be a couple thousands clearance between the action flats and the barrel flats.
Next, my milled slot was too wide. On the 2nd attempt, the rear lump shifted about .001 sideways, not allowing the rib extension to go in.
My advice here is to make sure you have a tight fit before you solder. I would have been wise to have taken a center punch and raised some 'points' in the bottom of the monoblock. I tried some brass shims........they obviously melted! You are getting almost red heat to melt the solder. I think I used 40/45% silver (I've had it a long time).
The top pic shows how the lumps should fit the action when you start. No fore and aft movement, extractor in place, locking lug engaged. I think the best advise here is to keep the action totally stripped except for the hinge pin and the locking lug in hand. The crossbolt hole will be the very last thing done!
As for heat: I use an ice melting torch, cheap, on eBay, comes with 3 torches. I use the mid sized. Cheaper than a Siefert for most things. The torch is a bit too long but can be held.


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TennHillBilly
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Reged: 17/05/13
Posts: 69
Loc: Tennessee Plateau
Re: Suitable steels for monoblock? [Re: TennHillBilly]
      #269263 - 15/08/15 04:09 AM

A couple of pics of one Birdhunter's rib/quarter rib sitting on the barrels to see how it will work. I't's about 2" too long and I'll bring it back into the monoblock a 1/2" or so.



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