Alaskanrocket
.224 member
Reged: 04/02/15
Posts: 19
Loc: Alaska
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I just received this project last week. Its very similar to an earlier post that claimed to be a Greifelt but there are no solid makers marks on this rifle. It does have a cursive "WK" on the bottom of the barrel, which I have been unable to identify, along with the designation 8.8X57. I slugged the barrel and it slugs at .3555 between lands and .348(I think that's what it was) between grooves. Short of chamber casting I've determined it to be a 9X57. The stock is obviously a modified military. The rifle originally came without a rear sight, I'm working on building a new one. It also had a spoon bolt that replaced the original bolt since the time that it was originally reworked, there was no work done to the bolt handle since it was welded on so I have also been working on reshaping and smoothing that out as you can see in the photos. Another issue is the set triggers, it will drop the kickoff but doesn't drop the sear all the way while set. There was some funky work done to this and I'm slowly but surely doing my best to fix these issues.
My hope is that somebody on here recognizes some of the original workmanship and tell me a little more about it. Its a neat rifle that has potential and I hope to bring it back to its former glory.
[IMG]http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh230/alaskanrocket/mauser_zpsaetx8nx3.jpeg[/IMG]
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Alaskanrocket
.224 member
Reged: 04/02/15
Posts: 19
Loc: Alaska
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I did some more research and the "WK" stamp is the barrel builder, Wilhelm Kelber
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lancaster
.470 member
Reged: 06/05/08
Posts: 9518
Loc: There's a lighthouse in the mi...
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Wilhelm Kelber was a barrel maker
its a Suhl made rifle from the 1920s to early 1930s
Max. CIP bullet diameter for the 9x57 is .3567. there are some 180 -200 grains .357 bullets for the .357 Mag I can recommend you for start to reload the 9x57 Mauser. 8x57 IS brass is fine and the CH4D die set is everything you need.
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Norwegian hunter misses moose, shoots man on toilet
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bringing civilisation to the barbarians
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Alaskanrocket
.224 member
Reged: 04/02/15
Posts: 19
Loc: Alaska
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Thanks for the info.
I already have a set of Lyman dies and ordered 250gr round nose in .356 from buffalo arms. I'm going to fire form some brass this weekend from 8x57, Im new to reloading and a little unclear if I need to fire form or if I can resize my brass with my current dies.
Edited by Alaskanrocket (18/03/15 06:23 AM)
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Huvius
.416 member
Reged: 04/11/07
Posts: 3614
Loc: Colorado
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Quote:
Thanks for the info.
I already have a set of Lyman dies and ordered 250gr round nose in .356 from buffalo arms. I'm going to fire form some brass this weekend from 8x57, Im new to reloading and a little unclear if I need to fire form or if I can resize my brass with my current dies.
Wouldn't hurt to anneal the brass down to the shoulder but sizing fired brass in your dies may be doable without annealing. I have never tried to fireform brass to neck size, only to form case shoulders, but it can of course be done.
If you have some cheap used brass you can experiment a little before settling on your preferred method.
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He who lives in the past is doomed to enjoy it.
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lancaster
.470 member
Reged: 06/05/08
Posts: 9518
Loc: There's a lighthouse in the mi...
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never had a problem to open 8x57 to 9mm in the die
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Norwegian hunter misses moose, shoots man on toilet
.
bringing civilisation to the barbarians
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Alaskanrocket
.224 member
Reged: 04/02/15
Posts: 19
Loc: Alaska
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Here is a picture of the proof marks on the barrel.
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xausa
.400 member
Reged: 07/03/07
Posts: 2037
Loc: Tennessee, USA
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To be sure of forming brass with correct headspace, you could either simply size the brass in your 9X57 dies and load the bullets far enough out to engage the lands, or go one step farther in the loading process and neck the cases up to .40 caliber, then neck one down with the 9X57 dies by leaving the full length die about .025" above the shell holder and gradually screwing it in, attempting to close the bolt on the sized case after each adjustment, until the case is a crush fit in the chamber. Then, leaving the full length sizing die locked in at that position, size the rest of your cases.
Either method will insure that the case head is held firmly against the bolt face and is not moved forward by the firing pin fall.
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Alaskanrocket
.224 member
Reged: 04/02/15
Posts: 19
Loc: Alaska
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Thanks, I'll try that, I have a friend that reloads quite a bit and see if he can help me through that process.
My least favorite part of this rifle is where one of the previous owners let their five year old loose with the barrel and a file......
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lancaster
.470 member
Reged: 06/05/08
Posts: 9518
Loc: There's a lighthouse in the mi...
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Quote:
Here is a picture of the proof marks on the barrel.
looks like proofed in may 1932
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Norwegian hunter misses moose, shoots man on toilet
.
bringing civilisation to the barbarians
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Rohermoker
.224 member
Reged: 15/03/15
Posts: 4
Loc: minnesota, USA
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I have an 8mm that looks much like yours as far as the engraving, and bolt handle. Mine has no maker marks or even proof marks.
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