Gordon
.224 member
Reged: 16/06/10
Posts: 13
Loc: Alaska
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There seems to be a lot of information on building a double rifle on a shotgun action, but I have not had any luck finding information for a single shot rifle build on a shotgun action.
My requirements as I view them now are, a hammerless break action of suitable strength, to be chambered in 9.3X74R (subject to change). I would like a fore end with a latch system, so no tools would be needed to break it down for transport.
I am not a machinist or gunsmith, but take machine shop 101, at our local community college, where most of the work would take place. I'm 63, and enjoy the machine work.
I am open to suggestions as to what actions would be most suitable. If you have a suggestion on books to purchase, I would appreciate that also.
Thank you.
Gordon Dempsey
Nikiski, Alaska
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Gordon Dempsey
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CHAPUISARMES
.416 member
Reged: 16/01/08
Posts: 2908
Loc: DUBBO, NSW, AUSTRALIA
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Hi Gordon,
I know that it is a long way from here to Alaska but have a look at www.usedguns.com.au there is a very nice light colored stock folding 410 with detachable for-end. the barrel size of 410 would be a useful size for standard rounds but have you considered a H&R single shot rifle, there are a couple on the same site or there was.
Cheers from Australia
Jeff Gray
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"Travel Light, Travel Fast and carry a Big Bore"
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Brithunter
.300 member
Reged: 17/03/10
Posts: 184
Loc: Lincolnshire, England
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My suggestion would be to use one of the Biakal MH18's the barrel is screwed into the Monoblock so the small bore barrel could be removed and the barrel of your choice fited this was the one in .222 rem I had:-
That's as it came but I didn't like the stock style so I altered it;-
As you can see the barrel screws into the mono block wihtt he lump that locks it closed:-
It has the latch you want.
they are also reasonably priced but would require the trigger worked on.
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Don't let the bastards grind you down!
Edited by CptCurl (22/06/10 09:43 PM)
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Gordon
.224 member
Reged: 16/06/10
Posts: 13
Loc: Alaska
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Hi Jeff,
I had not considered the Biakl, as I have not seen any here in Alasla, and I would prefer to look the gun over before I put down money. I'll look into Balal and see if there are any in the gun shops I visit in Anchorage.
Our local club range (Snow Shoe Gun Club) is not too far from my home, and I have seen some beautiful European single shots come throgh and fired for group, before flying out to hunting base camps. I have even fired a few. Those engraved beauties, are WAY BEYOND my retirement pay, but I sure do like them.
Thank you for the Biakal and H&R suggestions. I'll consider both of them.
I do appreciate you posting the photos of your rifle. Thank you. Gordon
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Gordon Dempsey
Edited by Gordon (22/06/10 11:22 AM)
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Gordon
.224 member
Reged: 16/06/10
Posts: 13
Loc: Alaska
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Hi Brithunter,
My apologies to you. I thought the photos continued the other post. Thank you very much for posting the photos and pointing out the mono-block junction of the barrel. That does look like a reasonable way to accomplish the desired result, and would provide an opportunity to set different barrels into the mono-block for testing calibers.
Thank you.
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Gordon Dempsey
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Brithunter
.300 member
Reged: 17/03/10
Posts: 184
Loc: Lincolnshire, England
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Not a problem. The rifle has gone now as I needed the space for something else on my licence pity as it shot quite well and would have made a perfect travel rifle for Scottish Roe.
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Don't let the bastards grind you down!
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Homer
.416 member
Reged: 07/04/09
Posts: 3081
Loc: Canberra, Australia
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G'Day Fella's,
Gordon and Brithunter, I may be wrong (won't be the first or last time) but I would imagine that the Baikal barrel is probably Soft Soldered into the Monoblock and not threaded.
If you look at the outer circular joint between the monoblock and barrel in Brithunter's image of the open action, you can see this joint has basically the same size gap or line width from, 10 O'clock around to 5 O'clock.
If this was a thread (being helical), the gap or line would become smaller as it went around.
This being the case (???), with the careful use of a LP/Propane gas flame (Oxy / Acetylene is to hot), you should be able to heat up the monoblock enough to remove the original barrel, without damaging the blued finish on the monoblock?
Gordon, Welcome to this Forum!
I think you know an Old Mate of mine (D.N.), he's a hunting guide here in Canberra, Australia.
He regularly forwards your emails onto me. Thank you for them!
We could all profit from you hunting knowledge and experience.
Hope the above information, is of use/help to you.
HooRoo
From
Hommer
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"Beware the Lolly Pop of Mediocrity,
Lick it Once and You Will Suck Forever"
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Bramble
.375 member
Reged: 29/07/06
Posts: 950
Loc: England
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I think it more likely brazed rather than soft soldered.
If it were soft solder it would require that the barrels are rust blued.
I will stand corrected, but, in my recollection they are caustic blacked.
Regards
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wjw
.275 member
Reged: 05/06/10
Posts: 55
Loc: b.c.
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Gordon
Have you looked at a used Savage Model 220 shotgun, or the Model 219 rifle. Hammerless, made from the 1930's through the 1960's and beyond. Also came as a rifle with an extra shotgun barrel. Made in three versions. The best version is probably the first with a striker and a top lever. Nest would be the internal hammer version with the top lever. Least attractive is the 1960's side lever version.
These have been converted to .30-40 with no problems other than recoil.
These make into quite attractive rifles - one done by Corpe and Madole was on the RIA site for sale two or three years ago.
Bill
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Gordon
.224 member
Reged: 16/06/10
Posts: 13
Loc: Alaska
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Hommer, thanks for the welcome, I do enjoy D.N. and the information we share.
Bill, I'm looking for a Savage 219, as I have not had a chance to see/handle one yet.
Recoil reducers come in a lot of configurations, mechanical, mercury, etc. If I build too heavy a caliber for the weight of this project rifle, that would be an option to explore.
I do appreciate the suggestions and information I'm getting. I would probably not have found the Savage 219 without you all pointing me in that direction.
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Gordon Dempsey
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Gordon
.224 member
Reged: 16/06/10
Posts: 13
Loc: Alaska
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Quote:
Gordon
Have you looked at a used Savage Model 220 shotgun, or the Model 219 rifle. Hammerless, made from the 1930's through the 1960's and beyond. Also came as a rifle with an extra shotgun barrel. Made in three versions. The best version is probably the first with a striker and a top lever. Nest would be the internal hammer version with the top lever. Least attractive is the 1960's side lever version.
These have been converted to .30-40 with no problems other than recoil.
These make into quite attractive rifles - one done by Corpe and Madole was on the RIA site for sale two or three years ago.
Bill
Hi Bill,
Thank you for the information on the different models of the Savage 219 and 220. I found a 220A in 12 ga., but the gent told me he will let me know this week if he will turn loose of it. I do not know what the internals are like, but the trigger is a bit heavy. It shoulders and points very well.
As far as caliber, I have thought the 9.3X53R Finish would be a good one. Reloadable brass is readily available, and I might be able to special order brass with the proper head stamp. Of course
caliber selection is still open for discussion. 
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Gordon Dempsey
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wjw
.275 member
Reged: 05/06/10
Posts: 55
Loc: b.c.
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Gordon
If memory serves, the 220A is one of the striker fired versions and cocks using the opening lever. If you are careful, you can get quite a nice trigger on these.
Should be a nice project.
Bill
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Gordon
.224 member
Reged: 16/06/10
Posts: 13
Loc: Alaska
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Hi Bill,
Thank you again. Hopefully it will be mine on Tuesday 13 July, and I can start working on it. I'll let you know what the internals look like after I get it home and inspect it.
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Gordon Dempsey
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