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Shooting & Reloading - Mausers, Big Bores and others >> Muzzleloaders & Blackpowder

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Mike_Bailey
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Loc: GB
1840's Harkom
      #130911 - 30/03/09 08:24 PM

I thought I might post a few pics of an 1840ish Harkom 14 bore percussion black powder
shotgun I aquired a while ago, it has taken a while as it has been in for some "sprucing
up". It has an interesting provenance being the grouse gun (or one of) of Mr Grant
of whisky fame ! sorry for pic quality


http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd31/mlb6363/IMG_0428.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd31/mlb6363/IMG_0429.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd31/mlb6363/IMG_0430.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd31/mlb6363/IMG_0431.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd31/mlb6363/IMG_0432.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd31/mlb6363/IMG_0433.jpg

best, Mike

Edited by NitroX (06/04/09 03:54 PM)


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Mike_Bailey
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Re: 1840's Harkom [Re: Mike_Bailey]
      #130912 - 30/03/09 08:32 PM

and the barrels

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd31/mlb6363/IMG_0434.jpg

best
Mike


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peter
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Re: 1840's Harkom [Re: Mike_Bailey]
      #130920 - 30/03/09 10:53 PM

mike

the pictures wont come up ?

peter


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Mike_Bailey
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Re: 1840's Harkom [Re: peter]
      #130924 - 31/03/09 12:11 AM

odd, works on my PC ?? best, Mike

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Mike_Bailey
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Re: 1840's Harkom [Re: Mike_Bailey]
      #130925 - 31/03/09 12:22 AM

oes this link work, the former post worked with lots of photos but the barrels won't come up here either ???

http://s222.photobucket.com/albums/dd31/mlb6363/Harkom/?albumview=slideshow

best
Mike


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Dphariss
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Re: 1840's Harkom [Re: Mike_Bailey]
      #130933 - 31/03/09 02:53 AM

Very nice.

Dan


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DarylSModerator
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Re: 1840's Harkom [Re: Dphariss]
      #130955 - 31/03/09 07:54 AM

Lovely - jealousy will always get my goat. Good find.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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Kaimiloa
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Re: 1840's Harkom [Re: DarylS]
      #130985 - 31/03/09 07:44 PM

Hi Mike,
If you are going to shoot that beauty, try 79 gr. by volume of Goex or Scheutzen 2F B.P, and 1 1/16 oz of nickel-plated shot from Ballistic Products, using a good wad column. My old pitted barrels (most are) don't care for the cheap fiber wads and prefer something with a better seal such as a .125 thick "nitro" card plus two Wonder Wads - at least one of them lubed. Or simply two WWs. I don't use plastic wads in old barrels, both to keep pressure low and to avoid plastic fouling in the pits.

I have done a LOT of patterning with old pitted barrels and find the nickel plated shot well worth the cost: 8-9% better patterns and far better penetration on game - especially the feathered type. NP 6s will penetrate as well as lead 4s or 5s. For ducks, No. 4 Bismuth is fine in old barrels.

Aloha, Ka'imiloa

--------------------
Few pleasures exceed restoring a nice old gun and returning it to shooting and hunting.


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Mike_Bailey
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Re: 1840's Harkom [Re: Kaimiloa]
      #131001 - 31/03/09 11:25 PM

Thx Kaimiloa, I am looking to pattern it in July with 1oz of no.6's and 2 3/4 drams or approx 75gr
of pyrodex (black powder is a pain in UK and Spain). I was going to use a 1cm fibre wad between
powder and shot and a 1/4cm fibre over wad. Thoughts ?/Hopefully I'll fire it at my first Pheasant in October when the new season opens best, Mike


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DarylSModerator
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Re: 1840's Harkom [Re: Mike_Bailey]
      #131023 - 01/04/09 02:14 AM

Pyrodex is made with Potassium Percholates & so is T7.
The fouling is more hydroscopic than black powder fouling. The sub's fouling converts to a BAD acid when moisture or high humidity is present - much worse than damp BP fouling.
It is almost impossilbe to get Pyrodex fouling out of pits - with solvents, BP or Smokeless - it will keep eating and eating away in the bottom & sides of the pits.

Please use only real black powder in that beautiful shotgun.

Kaimiloa's load using hard 1/8" cards along with the woven felt OxYoke wads is indeed a good one. I've never used them in a shotgun myself, only in BP ctg. rifles where they excell. They would also excell in a 'pelter'. Don't worry about the thin "B" wad hurting patterns, They spin off away from the shot cloud almost instantly upon exiting the barrel. Photographs show this.

Good luck with your Harkom.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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Kaimiloa
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Re: 1840's Harkom [Re: Mike_Bailey]
      #131105 - 01/04/09 06:02 PM

Mike, I feel a long post coming on, but for those who want to read it a lot of shooting will be reviewed. I’ll second what Dary has said completely. I am very familiar with Pyordex in ML S.G.s but will not use it in old pitted barrels for the reason Daryl describes. Pyrodex is a good powder, but not for old pitted barrels in my strong opinion.

If you have no alternative to Pyrodex, you may be able to improve your cleaning procedure. Using a bronze bore brush with the patch over it, instead of a jag, is useful. Perhaps you can clean in usual fashion, using hot or boiling water to open the metal pores a bit, then rinse, and then rinse again with a mild solution of sodium carbonate (washing soda) or sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) to hopefully neutralize the Pyrodex fouling still hiding in the pits and mini-cracks. Then rinse thoroughly again, dry well, and oil. I prefer non-petroleum products in MLs, to avoid killing primers. Others may be able to add to these thoughts.

The standard English load for the 14 bore SG was 3 drams BP (82 gr.) and 1 1/8 oz. of shot. I tend to download a little for my old guns, but typically use 78-82 gr. powder and either 1 1/16 or 1 1/8 oz. of shot. Slight changes in the amount of either powder or shot, even 3 grains of powder or 1/16 oz. of shot, can significantly affect the pattern. But most important in my experience is the wad column. Old guns seem to have a hard time getting a good gas seal, and therefore a LONGER column may do the trick.

I have not had good luck with fiber wads in old ML Sgs. Spend the money to get some good 1/4” felt wads, or lubed Wonder Wads, or both. Also some .125” OP (nitro) cards. Often a nitro card plus a lubed WW and a felt wad gives great patterns. Another excellent wad is to use a hard card or WW plus a palm sized piece of polyester fluff (pillow/teddy-bear stuffing). This provides a great gas seal and scrubs the bore, but does NOT melt. It is a bit messy in the environment tho, so be thoughtful where you use it.

As Daryl says, high speed photography shows that doughnut patterns are NOT caused by the wadding driving up thru the shot column, entirely contrary to widely held belief. I believe it is gas rushing around the wadding and into the shot that causes this. Thus, it makes sense that a wad of polyester fluff, or anything else that impedes this rush of gas, will improve the pattern and hopefully put an end to doughnut patterns. But of note is the fact that an OS card that is too heavy and does not blow out of the way instantly can be bad for patterns. Use an OS card that is snug or even one ga. size larger than your bore, but THIN. (V.M.Starr the famous jug-choker and SG shooter used to use a hard card over the shot too, but he was using jug choking and all his own tricks - so it's apples and oranges.)

I have read recently of the very good success of using an OS wad of cork, which blows apart instantly on leaving the muzzle. But all in all,the most important thing in old guns, in my experience, is the wad column - and it may take a longer one to do the trick - something you can really play with in a ML.

Pyrodex can be slightly "hotter" than typical BP like Goex or Scheutzen or Wano, and be sure you are loading by VOLUME, not grains, if using Pyrodex. Thus 75 gr. BY VOLUME of Pyrodex RS would not be unreasonable as a starting load - if you must use it.

Pattern your gun on a LARGE sheet of white paper, perhaps 40" high by 44" wide, aiming at an approx. 4" black center. Draw a 30" circle over the densest zone of pellet hits, and count the hits. Hits divided by number of shot in the load gives pattern percentage, as you may know. Don't rely on what you THINK the pattern is visually. Your eyes will lie! I shoot at 30 or 35 yds because even with cylinder bore, ML patterns can be quite good, and you can see what is happening with your pattern better.

Keep a record on each sheet of the load, wad column, distance, etc., for future reference and comparisons. You will find astonishing differences in the pattern results with different loads. And sometimes one barrel prefers a different load than its neighbor, if you are getting really picky as in turkey hunting! Digital pics of your targets and data make load review easy on the computer.

Aloha, Ka'imiloa

--------------------
Few pleasures exceed restoring a nice old gun and returning it to shooting and hunting.


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Mike_Bailey
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Re: 1840's Harkom [Re: Kaimiloa]
      #131109 - 01/04/09 06:23 PM

Kamiloa and Daryl, many many thanks. I have to use Pyrodex as black powder has become a
nightmare in UK, special licence, special storage, it all makes it impossible. I have
had the barrels checked and lapped and they have very few pits. I was going to clean it
with a phosphor bronze brush, hot water and a little washing up liquid, then hot water
to rinse then dry with a hairdrier. Can you advise me where I can get 14 bore lubed wonder
wads and the good felt wads you reccomend in 14 bore or maybe the materials and a suitable wad cutter ? Maybe Peter Dyson in the UK may have them ? When pattern it I will let you know
the results,
best, Mike


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DarylSModerator
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Re: 1840's Harkom [Re: Mike_Bailey]
      #131137 - 02/04/09 12:59 AM

Mike- try www.trackofthewolf.com That is where I buy my wads. Antoher is www.buffaloarms.com That is where I buy my 16 bore brass cases.

Kaimiloa - I agree with about everything you've said, - except about wads pushing through the shot - What I meant or tried to say, was that the thin "B" wad on top of the shot column won't push back into the shot cloud at the muzzle to spread it. They are light, accellerate due to the muzzle blast and spin off to the side of the shot cloud. WW Greener's photo's show that with a cylinder bore, the muzzle blast that sends the "B" wad sailing ahead, also pushes heavy base wads into the shot and spreads them - causing donuts. The lighter the base wads, perhaps the better shooting? We've had good luck with the lightweight donacona wads that track sells. If lubed, they are heavy and a choke or other 'help' is needed to retard them back from the shot.

We've worked a bit with several cylinder bores and adjusting the powder/shot charges, has resulted in nice round patterns. It is not always the light charges that work - some of the reduced powder charges were worse than the heavy loads. Moderate "square" loads seemed best in 20 bore through 10 bore. if you want and have a strong enough gun, you can do as some, and send horrendous clouds of shot out the muzzle in an attempt to fill in shot clouds - hard on you and the gun.

I am a regular at americanlongrifles.com & some of the guys there have a LOT more experience with smoothbores than I have. Some of them obtain excellent patterns using very light over powder wadding as the wadding's weight causes it to slow or lag behind the shot at the muzzle (as happens with chokes) - or perhaps it merely lacks the weight to open up the shot cloud. Some of these 'light' waddings, are merely 3 or 4 "B" wads for over powder wads, as well as one "B" over the shot.

Some of the guys roughen the muzzle and this itself will retard wads in cylinders which in turn, tightens patterns. The roughened muzzle holds the wads back momentarily, which allows the shot cloud to escape ahead of the wads at the muzzle. The 'roughed bore section' is cleaned automatically each time you load from the muzzle so no fouling builds in the roughened area - as will happen with a ctg. gun that is not loaded from the muzzle, of course. Roughing can be done with a 'tap' of the correct size, cutting perhaps .010" deep - about 1/2" length of roughing is all that's needed. A small tool, like a bore brush wioth a handle screwed on, could be used to quickly clean the muzzle's rough section every few shots to keep it clean and operating. in ctg. guns. The 'getting filled with 'dirt'' was Greener's 'problem' with roughened cylinders, if I remember correctly from his 9th edition of THE GUN - etc.

Of course, for shooting single balls, the roughened muzzle section isn't needed, but will not 'hurt' - probably.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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Dphariss
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Re: 1840's Harkom [Re: Kaimiloa]
      #131215 - 02/04/09 05:33 PM

Quote:

Mike, I feel a long post coming on, but for those who want to read it a lot of shooting will be reviewed. I’ll second what Dary has said completely. I am very familiar with Pyordex in ML S.G.s but will not use it in old pitted barrels for the reason Daryl describes. Pyrodex is a good powder, but not for old pitted barrels in my strong opinion.

If you have no alternative to Pyrodex, you may be able to improve your cleaning procedure. Using a bronze bore brush with the patch over it, instead of a jag, is useful. Perhaps you can clean in usual fashion, using hot or boiling water to open the metal pores a bit, then rinse, and then rinse again with a mild solution of sodium carbonate (washing soda) or sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) to hopefully neutralize the Pyrodex fouling still hiding in the pits and mini-cracks. Then rinse thoroughly again, dry well, and oil. I prefer non-petroleum products in MLs, to avoid killing primers. Others may be able to add to these thoughts.





Remember that soda can cause corrosion too and it won't necessarily neutralize the problem.
There is no safe way to shoot perchlorate powders.
New guns used with it generally develope pits pretty rapidly.
Use a magnifier, they start out microscopic. The stuff kinda like dissolves the steel leaving tiny (for awhile) craters under magnification.
In the US BP can be obtained can be a PITA in some areas.
In old guns one shooting session can result in a year of after rust and cleaning when chlorate powders are used.
Hot water and lots of it is the only answer. The stuff must be washed away.
Dan


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Mike_Bailey
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Re: 1840's Harkom [Re: Dphariss]
      #131217 - 02/04/09 06:09 PM

A phosphor bronze brush is OK in damascus barrels though ? thanks, Mike

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Kaimiloa
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Re: 1840's Harkom [Re: Mike_Bailey]
      #131331 - 03/04/09 04:52 PM

Mike, there is no problem with typical "brass" bore brushes to my knowledge, and I have sure used them a lot in old twist/damascus barrels. As mentioned, even Bismuth shot is OK in these old barrels.
Regarding lubed Wonder Wads for 14 ga.: just use the 12 ga. wads. They are quite flexible and your 14 ga. won't know the difference. I get good 1/4" felt wads, "nitro" OP wads, and OS cards from Mikes Wads. Reasonable prices and he makes all sizes of wads.
Aloha, Ka'imiloa

--------------------
Few pleasures exceed restoring a nice old gun and returning it to shooting and hunting.

Edited by Kaimiloa (03/04/09 04:56 PM)


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Kaimiloa
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Re: 1840's Harkom [Re: DarylS]
      #131333 - 03/04/09 05:16 PM

Daryl,
Another excellent post. Thanks. I was aware that you were speaking of the OS card flying out of the way at the muzzle. Have read W.W. Greener several times but need to review that part about the roughened muzzle and a heavy wad pushing up thru the shot charge in a cylinder bore.

But I am embarassed to say after a gazillion shots patterned out of old cylinder bore MLs that what I was referring to was photographs of MODERN S.G. loads which did not have the wadding moving up thru the shot as a cause of doughnut patterns. Since my overloaded brain was not putting two and two together that a cylinder bore has nothing to retard the wadding, and that it it now known that a major reason modern chokes work is precisely because they DO retard the wadding, it makes perfect sense that the heavy, lubed fiber wads would not do well in an old ML and instead the lighter wad columns do better. Exactly what I have found, as mentioned above.

But just go to any ML S.G. shoot (trap, etc.) and watch most competitors cheerily loading cheap, home-lubed fiber wads down their cylinder bore guns, often having little idea how they pattern!

My stacked wad columns trying to get a good gas seal in old pitted bores are not that light in total, but the fact they are made up of 3 or 4 separate wads may well allow the wads to blow off to the side and not up thru the pattern. It also would substantiate my finding that loads using polyester fluff in the wadding are usually quite good.

I don't think I am going to roughen the muzzle area of my old shotguns for value reasons (definitely going up on this side of the pond at least), but highly recommend the light wad trials.

Now I'm off to my 9th Ed. of W.W. Greener's "The Gun and its Development". ( A must read for later-era-BP enthusiasts, and now back in print!)

Aloha, Ka'imiloa

--------------------
Few pleasures exceed restoring a nice old gun and returning it to shooting and hunting.


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DarylSModerator
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Re: 1840's Harkom [Re: Kaimiloa]
      #131372 - 04/04/09 03:10 AM

Guys, listen to what Dan Pharris says about Pyrodex and T-7. They are percolate powders. Even Black Mag 3 which I thought was clear of percolates has it/them included and I won't use any of the phonies in any gun I value.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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Kaimiloa
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Re: 1840's Harkom [Re: DarylS]
      #131628 - 06/04/09 05:31 PM

Daryl,
I managed to review the majority of Greener's 9th Ed. over the past two days, and it now has MORE note-tags at the top of its pages - even tho it was already the most annotated and underlined book in my whole library of gun books!

I found the part where Greener shows his remarkable "shadow-graphs" of fired SG loads. He does mention that his interpretation of what is happening at the muzzle could be conjecture, but says it explains what appears to be happening with a choked load vs. one from a cylinder bore. I'm quite sure I've seen modern high-speed photographs that show it is not the wad pushing up thru the shot column that is causing a doughnut pattern. But again it is likely a choked muzzle was involved for the modern pics.

So I suspect both issues are correct, helping to explain what a troublesome issue doughnutting can be, and both gas activities at the muzzle and/or wad effects can be involved in that discouraging pattern effect.

I noted again that Greener really emphasizes the necessity of using a good-quality felt wad for SG loading, with a hard card beneath that to seal the lubed felt from the powder. He also thinks putting a thin card atop the felt wad is probably not necessary. I like the idea of making a "cookie" out of the lubed felt wad tho, using a card wad both below and above it, and think it makes it into a better gas-piston and bore-wiper.

I didn't find the part about considerably roughing up the muzzle end of the bore to retard the wads like a choke does. Can that be elsewhere - W. Greener maybe?

Aloha, Ka'imiloa

--------------------
Few pleasures exceed restoring a nice old gun and returning it to shooting and hunting.


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Kaimiloa
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Re: 1840's Harkom [Re: Kaimiloa]
      #131629 - 06/04/09 05:42 PM

Mike, by chance I was copying the Preface to "Boothroyd's Directory" of U.K./Scotland/Ireland gunmakers. When he gets to a review of Scottish makers he says: "(in) Scotland we discover more gunmakers, the quality of whose work can bear comparison with anything made in the U.K." He mentions John Dickson as still with us and "rightly in the fore front" but states Dickson is "closely followed by other makers now sadly out of business, Alex Henry, Mortimer, Harkom and MacNaughton, all built guns which are today treasured by their fortunate owners."

So congratulations on your very nice Harkom once again.

Aloha, Ka'imiloa

--------------------
Few pleasures exceed restoring a nice old gun and returning it to shooting and hunting.


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Mike_Bailey
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Re: 1840's Harkom [Re: Kaimiloa]
      #131646 - 06/04/09 09:53 PM

Thx Kaimiloa, an old collector in the guntrade in the UK told me Harkom used to be nicknamed the
"Purdeys" of Scotland. Joseph and his son ended up working for Dickson. I have been told this
happened as a big fire destroyed their premises (all serial number records were lost which
is a pain as I could more accurately determine the age of the gun). Interesting stuff anyway. Oddly
a chap in London called me a couple of years ago telling me that a gallery had a picture entitled
"Mr Grant walking up Grouse" and I would have liked to see it but couldn't get the artists name
and see the picture, (it would have been nice to re-unite the two but given the price of paintings
that was never going to happen !! ). I never did track it down. best, Mike


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DarylSModerator
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Re: 1840's Harkom [Re: Kaimiloa]
      #131662 - 07/04/09 01:08 AM

Quote:

Daryl,
I didn't find the part about considerably roughing up the muzzle end of the bore to retard the wads like a choke does. Can that be elsewhere - W. Greener maybe?

Aloha, Ka'imiloa




Yes indeed - I think it might have been early on in the discussion of chokes.

My brother's Manton 15 bore (& so marked) with .675" tubes shot donuts with wads punching almost in the centre of the hollow pattern at 25 yards. This was with hard card, then fibre wad, then 1oz. shot, then "B" over shot wad. The hollow patterns plagued us with light loads and heavy loads, but with from 65gr. to 75gr.(2 3/8's to 2 3/4drams) of powder, same shot and wad load, it shot beautiful patterns with both tubes averaging 72% at 26 yards. One load of 3 drams and 1 1/8oz. shot 84% from the right tube, but very weak and patchy, sometimes donuts from the left tube. Trying to find a descent pattern with BOTH tubes was merely trial and error - but we managed. It's possible that using some of the other guys multi "B" wads between the shot and powder might even improve. It would be nice indeed to get 80% at 26 yards from both tubes. Those patterns would give almost 40 yards killing patterns from a cylinder bore - Nice! As-is, we've got a 30 to 35 yard grouse gun- good performance from a cylinder with light shot load.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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Kaimiloa
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Re: 1840's Harkom [Re: Mike_Bailey]
      #131713 - 07/04/09 05:27 PM

Mike, re dating your Harkom, can you give us a clear pic of the proof marks on the underside of the barrels, or PM me with such pics? (you can send a much larger and clearer pic by PM, if need be.) The engraving pattern on locks, etc., and long tang on your buttplate says older rather than younger. Proof marks may at least let us date to pre 1853 or so, or after.
Aloha, Ka'imiloa

--------------------
Few pleasures exceed restoring a nice old gun and returning it to shooting and hunting.


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Kaimiloa
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Re: 1840's Harkom [Re: DarylS]
      #131714 - 07/04/09 05:41 PM

Daryl, isn't it great to play and play with an old ML SG and finally find what it likes - even barrel to barrel! Sometimes the patterns you can get will put many modern shotguns to shame. I have pulled full choke patterns at 40 yds. from a cylinder bore ML but it takes me about ten minutes to load one of those special turkey loads. 70% at 35 yds with regular loads is a definite possibility. I'm talking nickel plated No. 6 shot tho - it really helps.

But smaller shot and smaller bore both conspire against you as you try to reach farther with a cylinder bore ML.

Have a 15 ga German double from 1758, converted, that I restored and have taken two nice tom turkeys with. It's datable due to having hallmarked silver furniture. Think my well worn Joe Manton double is 15 ga too - as I recall. Great handling gun!

Hope this is staying at least partially on topic - Mike's nice Harkom double.

Aloha, Ka'imiloa

--------------------
Few pleasures exceed restoring a nice old gun and returning it to shooting and hunting.


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Mike_Bailey
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Re: 1840's Harkom [Re: Kaimiloa]
      #131727 - 08/04/09 12:35 AM

Kaimiloa, the gun is in my flat in London, I will next be there in early May, I will try and
take some close up shots of the proof marks then, many thx, Mike


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