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Shooting & Reloading - Mausers, Big Bores and others >> Big Bore Rifles
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1980E26
.300 member


Reged: 03/05/05
Posts: 195
Loc: USA
375 Express project- WIP
      #67284 - 17/12/06 05:25 PM


Thought this might be of interest to bolt gun fans. I got this barreled action about two weeks ago. The stock was toast and no blue on the metal work. A nice coat of patina (light rust and spotting). Its a 375 2.5" Express. I will try and link the photos from photobucket. This is my first time so I have my fingers crossed. Have about another 2 hours of filing on the barreled action before I start to polish. Will also try and post a photo of my wood choices for this project. Think Im going to use blank #117.


















Edited by corbinshell (17/12/06 05:30 PM)

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1980E26
.300 member


Reged: 03/05/05
Posts: 195
Loc: USA
Re: 375 Express project- WIP [Re: 1980E26]
      #67285 - 17/12/06 05:31 PM

Not sure how I did it but the photos posted. Now if I can only repeat it going forward.

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DarylS
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Reged: 10/08/05
Posts: 26998
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Re: 375 Express project- WIP [Re: 1980E26]
      #67519 - 20/12/06 02:01 PM

That will be a nice little rifle. I expect you did a chamber cast, Corbin? Is that a Dutch Mann?

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V

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1980E26
.300 member


Reged: 03/05/05
Posts: 195
Loc: USA
Re: 375 Express project- WIP [Re: DarylS]
      #67538 - 20/12/06 04:43 PM

Daryl

I have not yet done a chamber cast but will once I get it all done. Spent about 2 hours this evening stoning the barreled action. Still lost of draw filing left on the rest of the parts. This has been a fun project.

Yes its a Dutch Mannlicher turn bolt. Model 1892.

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DoubleD
.400 member


Reged: 23/11/03
Posts: 2437
Loc: Retired in Oklahoma
Re: 375 Express project- WIP [Re: 1980E26]
      #67568 - 21/12/06 05:20 AM

Just as an aside, Wal Winfer's British Single Shots Volume 5 Holland and Holland has a lot of information on the development the .375 and the part the Mannlicher played.

--------------------
DD, Ret.

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Double_Trouble
.375 member


Reged: 27/04/06
Posts: 577
Loc: Canada
Re: 375 Express project- WIP [Re: 1980E26]
      #67598 - 21/12/06 09:05 AM

Corbinshell:

great photos! and looks like a very nice blank you have selected for the stock.

I am in the process of preparing an old 22 lever action rifle and i thought i had a decent finish on the parts but the Smith i took it to said i should finish the steel components with 1000 grit paper,,,,, how far down will you go with yours? as i thought that 1000 was excessive but.... maybe not.

i am anxious to see how your project progresses and would really like to see the metalwork when it is ready for bluing ,,,, good luck with the restoration !


DT

--------------------
Double Trouble,
Speak not of what you do not know.
Listen up when it's time to.

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1980E26
.300 member


Reged: 03/05/05
Posts: 195
Loc: USA
Re: 375 Express project- WIP [Re: Double_Trouble]
      #67607 - 21/12/06 10:41 AM


Double Trouble,

In regards to your question about bluing. What kind of blue are you planning on doing?

If its "hot" blue that you are planning the surface finish will dictate how shiny the finish will be. The more the steel is polished the flatter it becomes. Invision looking at the steel from the side with a microscope. The peaks and valleys will be very small and the durability will suffer as the surface is very flat. Dont get me wrong the finish will be durable but less durable than a lesser buffed surface. One technique to get hot blue to look like rust blue is to sand one way with new paper (once the surface is completely prepaired). After blued then take a wire wheel to the metal. It comes out really nice.

If its rust bluing that you are after all that needs to be done is a polish to 320 grit to remove all tooling marks. I go to worn out 320grit SC paper which in effect is about 400 grit once its worn out. The metal is then bead blasted and then rust blued. I use Mark Lee rust blue solution and the finished product comes out really sweeeeeeeeet. It usually takes between 6 to 8 applications. An all day process for one gun and parts (after all the hard work is completed-draw filing, stoning and sanding). The absolute quickest way to ruin metal work is to use a buffing wheel. I DO NOT use any buffing wheels. All polsishing is done by hand.

It is not necessary to polish the metal to 1000 grit unless you want to hot blue and want a super shinny finish. More important is to draw file and stone to remove ALL tooling marks. If you dont think there are tool marks in your metal just take 600 grit and sand off some blue. You will see what I am refering to.

I have decided to get back into custom gun making and restorations of fine firearms. No one knows of my skills and services as I do not advertize or make it know. Look at the 1998 Burris scope catalog. My gun is on the cover. Its a 275 Rigby 1/2 octagon 1/2 round, integral rib, integral front sight ramp, butter knife, skeleton girp and butt, shadow line cheek, schnbel forend, etc etc. Burris really screwed the pooch with the photo as they put some ugly scope on the gun with double sided tape. The rifle is not even drilled and tapped. Its an express rifle. In addition there is another photo in the catalog where they digitally removed the rear sight.

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400NitroExpress
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Reged: 26/11/03
Posts: 1154
Loc: Lone Star State
Re: 375 Express project- WIP [Re: 1980E26]
      #67620 - 21/12/06 01:51 PM

Quote:

The absolute quickest way to ruin metal work is to use a buffing wheel. I DO NOT use any buffing wheels. All polsishing is done by hand.



You will never make it here. In America, the skill of a custom "gunmaker" is determined by the horsepower and rpm of his polishing wheel.

Keep up the good work.

--------------------
"Serious rifles have two barrels, everything else just burns gunpowder."

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1980E26
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Reged: 03/05/05
Posts: 195
Loc: USA
Re: 375 Express project- WIP [Re: 400NitroExpress]
      #67630 - 21/12/06 02:52 PM


400NE,

I know what you are saying about the polishing wheel. I have seen more than a fair number of botched jobs by using a buffing wheel. Doing things correctly takes time. I have a full time job which pays the bills so I do not need to rely on gun making to put food on the table. My plan is to do special restoration projects and a little building to keep me sharp. No sense in wasting all that time spent in school about 12 years ago. Use it or loose it!

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Double_Trouble
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Reged: 27/04/06
Posts: 577
Loc: Canada
Re: 375 Express project- WIP [Re: 1980E26]
      #67682 - 21/12/06 11:45 PM

Corbinshell:

thanks for the very comprehensive reply! I am not doing the bluing myself, only the metal preparation but it will be a hot bluing process.

i am glad you told me of the buffing wheel cuz i definetly had it in mind.

the first person i spoke to told me that the metal should NOT be mirrior bright as the bluing "wouldnt take" i now know that this is bunk.

i stoned the parts with a 180 stone and then 220 paper 280 paper and then some worn 320 i see now that i am about half way to having the correct finish.

with the Christmas break soon upon us, i will have time to do a proper job.

the barrel has a few fairly deep pits on it so i will remove what i can without creating flats and then sand blast them to ensure that the pits are free of rust and debris.
do you use a contoured draw file as i fear that using a file (at least in my mitts)would again leave flats or at least vary from the barrles original profile.

i am thinking that this is a job that requires both experience and boot load of patience.

i am glad that the rifle i am doing isnt expensive in the event that it doesnt come out great but i am shooting for a quality job or it's just a waste of time and effort,,, the stock for the rifle has been re done already by a very compitant local stock maker here and after having seen his work, i want to do a good job on the metal work.

one last question if i may, do you ever use a lathe to assist in the polishing process?

i did a search for the cover photo of your gun but no luck thus far.... i will look some more


Thanks again for the help!

DT

--------------------
Double Trouble,
Speak not of what you do not know.
Listen up when it's time to.

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1980E26
.300 member


Reged: 03/05/05
Posts: 195
Loc: USA
Re: 375 Express project- WIP [Re: Double_Trouble]
      #67699 - 22/12/06 01:20 AM

Double Trouble,

Send me an email off line and I will send you a copy of the Burris catalog that has my rifle on the cover. Include your phone number in the email and I will call you to discuss the bluing process.

I use a series of files. The cut will depend on how much material I want to remove. The key is not to let the file load up and gouge the metal. As far as the flats are concerned. It takes time to do it correctly and yes you will have a series of microflats on the barrel that when done correctly become round. Its like taking an octagon barrel and transitioning it to round. For every flat it needs to be recut on the mill at least 6 passes to transition to a semi round profile. The more passes the rounder it becomes. You will get to the point of diminishing returns and only hand work is required.

As far as barrel spinners go. Its possible to get a very good finish depending on how the barrel is held in relationship to the belt sander. If you polish the barrel at a direct 90 degree angle to the belt the chances of ripples is super high. If the barrel is polished almost in line with the belt sander the ripple factor is reduced to almost zero. Again it takes time to get it right but its not hard to learn.

If a super mirror bright finish is what you want do this.
Use a barrel spinner and go up to 600 grit that is worn slap out. This will create about a 1000 grit finish or close. Then use a high speed polishing disc with micro polishing compound. This will bring it up to a mirror finish. Keep in mind the speed of the disc will really polish the barrel. If there are ANY fine scratches that you did not remove in the beginning stages they will ALL show up. The bluing is not the hard part its the prep work. A mirror finish will not be as durable as a lower polished finish because the steel is much flatter. If the gun is rubbed against something the chances are greater that the finish will come off. The results can be really spectacular when done correctly. Anyone can better the best factory bluing because they do it in a production manner and do not have the time to put in a bit of TLC.

Edited by corbinshell (22/12/06 01:27 AM)

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Double_Trouble
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Reged: 27/04/06
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Loc: Canada
Re: 375 Express project- WIP [Re: 1980E26]
      #67714 - 22/12/06 05:02 AM

done!


DT

--------------------
Double Trouble,
Speak not of what you do not know.
Listen up when it's time to.

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1980E26
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Reged: 03/05/05
Posts: 195
Loc: USA
Re: 375 Express project- WIP [Re: Double_Trouble]
      #67724 - 22/12/06 08:28 AM


DT,

Check your personal messages. I sent you a message.

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