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Double Rifles, Single Shots & Combinations >> Building Double Rifles & Gunsmithing

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bulldog563
.400 member

Reged: 21/10/05
Posts: 1153
Loc: California

What to look for when choosing a blank for a DR?
#42310 - 24/11/05 08:55 PM

What attributes should be looked for when looking for a wood blank for a DR? The reason I ask is I am having a Searcy made for me and will be wading through his wood pile on monday and would like to have some idea on what to look for. Not sure if it matters but it is a deluxe boxlock in 500 NE. Personally the darker woods appeal to me more then the lighter colored woods...Does this make any difference in strength etc? I have been told in the past that the grain should run lengthwise down the piece but thats where my knowledge ends. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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500Nitro
.450 member

Reged: 06/01/03
Posts: 7244
Loc: Victoria, Australia

Re: What to look for when choosing a blank for a DR? [Re: bulldog563]
#42317 - 25/11/05 03:24 AM

Strength through the wrist is absolutely paramount
and where it butts up to the Action.

As you say - the grain should run lengthwise - once
it gets to the main part of the butt it isn't so important
if it goes to patterns, swirls, tiger stripe etc.

As much as everyone likes fancy / nice wood, if it
doesn't have strength in the right place it is useless.

Light wood can be darkened and coloured without too much
problem and the wood will naturally darken anyway over time
so wood always starts lighter.

I'm sure Butch will advise you - after all, I doubt he's going
to recommend a piece of Wood that's going to break.

500 Nitro

Edited by 500Nitro (25/11/05 03:27 AM)

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Peterb
.333 member

Reged: 07/07/04
Posts: 288

Re: What to look for when choosing a blank for a DR? [Re: 500Nitro]
#42318 - 25/11/05 03:44 AM

Color makes no difference in strength, just in preference. However, Butch prefers dark wood as most of his customers prefer dark wood. Butch also uses only English as it has better machinability than Black or Claro or Bastogne. Butch also picks his wood for proper layout and strength so unless there is a hidden flaw, any blank you see at Butch's place will be good for the task. Now when one mentions grain through the wrist, it doesn't matter if it is up and down or side to side...just as long as it is not at an angle. And the action area must be strong as the wrist must be strong. The butt behind the wrist may be wild as the extra volume there adds strength. You can also check for hardness by trying to dig a thumbnail into the wood. You don't want burl or feather in the wrist (you won't find these at Butch's), but fiddle is OK as it is strong.

I am a wood supplier to Butch, so I know what he likes and what he doesn't like. He won't put effort into a blank if he has any thought that it might be weak or unfit for function.

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