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bulldog563
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Reged: 21/10/05
Posts: 1153
Loc: California
Suggestions on fore end shapes on a DR
      #42297 - 24/11/05 03:04 PM

I have recently put a deposit down on a Searcy Deluxe Boxlock in 500 NE. This will be my first DR and could use some help. The area where I am not sure what to do is on the fore end. Since this will be my first DR I have no real experience as to the pro's and con's of the different fore end shapes. Does Butch do different shapes on request? I haven't talked to Butch about this yet and I am sure he will be most helpful, but I would like to have as much info as possible before speaking with him on monday when I get measured. If anyone has advice/pictures of different styles with any insight it would be appreciated. Pictures would be especially helpful due to my limited experience. Thanks.


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tinker
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Reged: 12/03/05
Posts: 4835
Loc: Nevada
Re: Suggestions on fore end shapes on a DR [Re: bulldog563]
      #42321 - 25/11/05 04:11 AM

I'm quietly jealous of your new rifle.
Good for you!!


Two forend options come up for me around thoughts of a good user rifle.

For one, I've seen numerous and handled a few rifles with longer than typical forend wood in a fairly standard splinter shape. I like the way the bit of wood works to fill the hollow in the palm of my support hand when reaching up the barrels for a good grip.

Also there's the (and I'll qualify this as *ever so slightly*) slight semi-beavertail forend, also done to the longish end of the spectrum.
I've seen a few older (british) Rigbys with that kind of treatment and it actually looked quite good. I haven't had the opportunity to handle a rifle with such an arrangement, but I can imagine it's going to depend on what your personal measurements are like.
In terms of bicycle fit, I ride a 59cm top tube with about 110-120mm of stem. That's a bit of a reach for most guys my size (5'11") but I have longish arms and generous hands.

Think about what tools, shift knobs, computer mouse shapes... suit your hands and sense of style best and consider that while you're at it with Butch. The action shape of his guns can handle a fair range of stock styles without looking out of place. I think you'd be able to do just about anything with one of his guns without killing the looks.
I've even seen full stocked DRs with schnable forend tips, a Searcy with it's 24" barrels and a slender manlicher style forend in a light caliber like 7 or 8mm would be really neat!



--Tinker



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--Self-Appointed Colonel, DRSS--



"It IS a dangerous game, and so named for a reason, and you can't play from the keyboard. " --Some Old Texan...


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bulldog563
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Reged: 21/10/05
Posts: 1153
Loc: California
Re: Suggestions on fore end shapes on a DR [Re: tinker]
      #42352 - 25/11/05 02:44 PM

Thanks Tinker...your input has been very helpful as usual. Do you have any pictures of these types of shapings? What do you mean by "fully stocked" with a schnable style fore end? What is a manlicher style fore end?

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bulldog563
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Reged: 21/10/05
Posts: 1153
Loc: California
Re: Suggestions on fore end shapes on a DR [Re: bulldog563]
      #42356 - 25/11/05 02:57 PM

Since this will be a 500...not sure if a slender fore end would be suitable. Also any other suggestions on other aspects of the build that I could customize...ie stock shape, cheekpiece, checkering patterns or anything else I have overlooked due to my inexperience. Anything that people who have a DR wish they had specified during the build process to make it a better gun? Really anything at all. Pictures would be especially helpful. Thanks.

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tinker
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Reged: 12/03/05
Posts: 4835
Loc: Nevada
Re: Suggestions on fore end shapes on a DR [Re: bulldog563]
      #42360 - 25/11/05 03:24 PM

Think something like this, but much slimmer up front at the muzzles --mind you this is a full stocked *three barreled* gun-- I'd go with much less wood up front.





In that your gun is a big DGR a full stocked arrangement would likely be heavy, the gun's going to weigh a bit any way you look at it.
That's why I noted that a light gun in some seven millimeter chambering (with light barrels at that) would be my choice for a full stocked double... and it'd be neat to boot!

Splinter forends are what you see the most. Much of that can be accounted to tradition. I really do think that if you're reaching far forward of a small, slim forend a longer forestock might be something to consider. Doubles with long forends that are full at the tip tend to feel nice in my support hand.
Again, what feels right for you is what's important.

Are you going to get down to Butch's shop any time soon?
He might have some range of forend shapes there for you to handle.


--Tinker

--------------------
--Self-Appointed Colonel, DRSS--



"It IS a dangerous game, and so named for a reason, and you can't play from the keyboard. " --Some Old Texan...


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bulldog563
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Reged: 21/10/05
Posts: 1153
Loc: California
Re: Suggestions on fore end shapes on a DR [Re: tinker]
      #42364 - 25/11/05 05:04 PM

yeah, I will be there on monday. Looking forward to it. Not looking forward to the long wait. I will be counting off the days. Anyone have a time machine?

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400NitroExpress
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Reged: 26/11/03
Posts: 1154
Loc: Lone Star State
Re: Suggestions on fore end shapes on a DR [Re: bulldog563]
      #42445 - 26/11/05 06:28 PM

Bulldog:

Since you're ordering a .500 as opposed to something like a 7X65R, I suggest that you get a splinter fore-end.

The only purpose of the fore-end wood of a double rifle is to house the fore-end iron. It isn't intended as a "grip" or "handle" of any kind. The checkering on the fore-end is strictly decorative. The forward hand grips the barrels when shooting, not the fore-end. A beavertail, especially if too long, only encourages an incorrect hold and adds useless weight. This can cause problems.

The fore-end attaches to the gun via a stud that is soldered to the barrels called the fore-end loop. This solder joint can sometimes fail, even on guns of the highest quality. While this failure is most common on side by side shotguns used in high volume shooting, it can also be a problem with heavy caliber double rifles that generate lots of recoil. In both cases, due to incorrect hold and the extra weight, those with beavertail fore-ends are the worst offenders. When this happens, you're done until you can get it soldered back on. Not what you want in a heavy double intended for the heaviest game found only in the "furtherest shag".

I'm not saying that this problem is particularly common, just that it does happen and is just one more thing to go wrong that doesn't need to be invited.
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"Serious rifles have two barrels, everything else just burns gunpowder."


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