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CJF
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Reged: 07/08/17
Posts: 354
Loc: United States
Charles Lancaster oval bore rifles
      #392798 - 05/08/25 10:29 AM

Earlier this year I won at auction a Charles Lancaster double rifle. Jones underlever. Hammers. 26" damascus barrels. With an early, probably German, scope base in the rib, but no scope or rings. The auction company is in Italy, and this is my second antique firearm purchase from them. They handle the export to the USA, and the gun shows up from UPS like any overseas purchase. A very simple transaction, made slightly more annoying by the new tariffs we're doing here (which aren't exactly helping our economy right now.) Anyway, this one had a 10% tariff whereas last November's 1874 Dickson 16bore was duty free.

While awaiting that rifle's permits to come through on the Italian side, another Charles Lancaster double rifle popped up on Gunbroker here. For those of you not familiar, Gunbroker is an online only auction platform for selling firearms here in the USA. Sellers fees are less than typical auction houses and there are no or nearly no buyer's fees besides sales tax.

This second Lancaster is also a hammer gun with a Jones underlever. 28" steel barrels and an engraved steel butt plate. This one had a Prince of Wales grip and non-rebounding locks, whereas the earlier gun had a steel capped pistol grip and rebounding locks. Both rifles are higher grade guns, and this newer rifle, while being in much better condition, had a lot of older style components.

So I lucked out with a low bid on that second rifle and it also was inbound. Both showed up the day before we got home from a multiweek RV trip to Colorado from the east coast. The Italian rifle, listed as a 450BPE turned out to be a 500/450 3.25", while the Gunbroker rifle is a standard 450BPE in 3.25".

The Italian rifle needed a minor repair to the buttstock for damage incurred in transit, and a replacement for the fossilized recoil pad, so today was the first day I had either of them out to the range.

Range results with the 450BPE were really solid with loads I'd put together for an Edward Lang boxlock double. Those used 4198, kapok and either a 300gr .452" JHP or a 350gr .458" LFN bullet. Both shot high, with the lead projectiles making a 1.5" group for 4 shots, albeit at only 22yds (what I had to work with at our muddy range.) Velocity with the heavier bullet was still faster than the jacketed 300gr bullet thanks more powder and the advantage lead seems to have over jackets.

Accuracy for the 450BPE was excellent. High by 2-3" but still a tight group, particularly with the .458" bullet, with a short range (22yds) group of 1.25". Happy to see usable results so early, but that's been what I've seen since venturing into nitro-for-black land.

I need to load up some 450BPE rounds with jacketed .458" loads (I had used the smaller .452" bullets while loading for the tight bores on the Lang.)

For the 500/450, I'm trying my first attempt at fireforming. I am looking to blow out Jamison brass in 500/416 (which is 3.25") to 500/450 3.25". My initial attempts would have been great for hunting moths or houseflys, but my little load of 10.5gr of Unique did nothing to blow out the shoulders and neck to what I need. More powder is on deck.

Pics to follow

Chris

Edited by CJF (05/08/25 08:17 PM)


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DarylS
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Re: Charles Lancaster oval bore rifles [Re: CJF]
      #392799 - 05/08/25 12:34 PM

Good results so early. Looking VERY promising.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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CptCurlAdministrator
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Re: Charles Lancaster oval bore rifles [Re: DarylS]
      #392804 - 05/08/25 10:05 PM

Good report! I trust all will proceed equally well.

As for the fireforming, let me suggest that you anneal the Bertram 500/416 brass before blowing it out.

I have blown out at least 100 Hornady .470NE cases to .500 3-1/4" (straight wall). My method is to use 11.5 grains of Unique or Red Dot (Bullseye equivalent), fill the case with cream of wheat, plug with a wad of newspaper balled up, and use for "dry-fire" practice. I have never had a case not to expand perfectly. However, I do notice that Hornady brass always exhibits color from annealing, which must be their final process.

On the other hand, I have found some Jamison brass to be rather hard and in need of annealing when purchased. That may be your problem.

I hope this helps. I'm not trying to be a "know-it-all."

Curly

--------------------
RoscoeStephenson.com

YOUR DOUBLE RIFLE IS YOUR BEST FRIEND.



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CJF
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Re: Charles Lancaster oval bore rifles [Re: CptCurl]
      #392805 - 05/08/25 10:59 PM

Thank you Curly for the suggestion to anneal first. I've honestly not yet tried annealing. I've been slowly building up my knowledge and skills and I've cast bullets and paper patched, so I guess that's the next step.

I also have some new Nosler head stamped 500/416 cases. Do you know who makes Nosler's brass in the cartridge? Curious if that would be softer.

Chris


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CptCurlAdministrator
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Re: Charles Lancaster oval bore rifles [Re: CJF]
      #392806 - 06/08/25 12:26 AM

Chris, Did you stuff the case with cream of wheat or some other cereal, such as grits? You need that inert bulk to blow out the case.

Annealing is quite easy. Here’s a step-by-step of how I do it.

* Find a deep-well socket that will eat about a half of your empty case, with the base inserted into the socket. For a 3-1/4" case based on the .500, I use a deep-well ¾” socket. Here’s a pic of my socket holding a .500 3-1/4” case:



* You are going to spin the case in a flame from your propane torch and then drop it into a bucket of water. Here are the components laid out:




* And here is the assembly ready to spin:




* Do this in your garage or other safe place, and be mindful of all proper safety considerations for open flame and hot objects. A concrete floor is ideal. If the work-space is somewhat darkened, that helps.

* Get a bucket with 6 inches or more of cold water. Set it on the floor in front of you.

* Place yourself on a short stool or other seat.

* Have the empty brass, fired or unprimed, in a container handy in front of you.

* Light your propane torch and place it on the floor standing in front of you with the flame facing away.

* Put an empty case into your deep socket, and start it spinning relatively slowly. If it is too fast, the case will rattle and shake too much.

* While the case is spinning, ease the mouth and shoulder of the case into your propane flame. The idea is to heat the front of the case protruding outside the socket. The socket works as a heat sink to protect the head and lower half of the case (which you don’t want to heat).

* Continue spinning the mouth and shoulder in the flame until it starts to glow red. Just until you see it start to glow. The purpose of spinning the case is to heat it evenly all around its circumference. This is why a somewhat darkened workplace is good, so you can see it start to glow.

* Then turn the rig down towards the bucket of water so the case falls free into the water to drench the heat. The case should fall freely from the socket.

* Pick up another empty case and repeat.

* After several repetitions, your socket will get hot. Douse it in your cold water to cool it, and then keep going.

* Retrieve your cases from the bucket of water, let them dry, then prime them, charge them, fill with cream of wheat, seal off with a wad of newspaper or other paper, and blast away.

Easy-peasy!

--------------------
RoscoeStephenson.com

YOUR DOUBLE RIFLE IS YOUR BEST FRIEND.



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CJF
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Re: Charles Lancaster oval bore rifles [Re: CptCurl]
      #392808 - 06/08/25 01:50 AM

Thank you for the annealing instructions. I'll be putting those to use.

I did use grits in the cases. Perhaps too much? I put the grits in up to w/in 1/4" of the top, then sealed the top by pressing the case thru a thin (1/8" thick) sheet of beeswax/crisco that I usually use as lube with black powder.

After rechecking the 10 cases I fired yesterday with Unique and grits, I found 2 of the 10 that did expand properly.

I'll anneal and bump the charge up from 10.4 to 11.5gr of Unique.

Thanks again,
Chris


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CJF
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Re: Charles Lancaster oval bore rifles [Re: CJF]
      #392809 - 06/08/25 01:57 AM

What am I forgetting about posting pics here? I've resized this jpeg to 85KB

This top version using a hosting link. The bottom is a direct link. The hosting link should work unless the file size is too large, right?

[image]https://hosting.photobucket.com/ef477c67-1177-4902-ac5a-0357556b39c6/d2688f46-109d-4811-b85e-d7d14d7cdbf9.jpeg[/image]

https://hosting.photobucket.com/ef477c67...d14d7cdbf9.jpeg

Edited by CJF (06/08/25 02:02 AM)


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CJF
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Reged: 07/08/17
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Loc: United States
Re: Charles Lancaster oval bore rifles [Re: CJF]
      #392810 - 06/08/25 02:29 AM

trying again, but after first saving as jpg vs jpeg on PC, then uploading to hosting site and resizing there to reduce from 2MB per photo down to less than 250KB. This time it works. So no JPEG file types.



Edited by CJF (06/08/25 02:55 AM)


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CJF
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Re: Charles Lancaster oval bore rifles [Re: CJF]
      #392811 - 06/08/25 02:32 AM







(this pic is 2.4MB)


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DarylS
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Re: Charles Lancaster oval bore rifles [Re: CJF]
      #392813 - 06/08/25 04:16 AM

Further note on annealing if I might add something to Curly's instructions - note he suggested darkened or slightly darkened room or area. THIS can be quite critical. I know some people do, some don't.
I didn't think of using the electric drill and socket - good idea, that is. I've always held the case in my fingers, helping to prevent over heating the case. You'll usually drop it into the bucket of water before the head area gets too hot.
A darkened area or room helps to "see" the colours changing in the case when applying the heat to them. Once I started doing this, I no longer OVER annealed any cases. An over-annealed or heated to TOO high a temperature, will ruin a case forever. Overheating (too bright red) will make the case too soft & the case will crumple when attempted any sort of sizing, expanding or crimping.
Overheating is easily done if too bright lighting in a room, or outside in the sun.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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93x64mm
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Reged: 07/12/11
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Re: Charles Lancaster oval bore rifles [Re: DarylS]
      #392817 - 06/08/25 06:08 AM

CJF - lovely rifle & not bad NFB load either!
If a deer or pig decided to pop up at the wrong time they'd be in serious trouble
Not sure but I Think Bertram Brass do have 500/450 brass, just can't find their list I've put it in a safe spot


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CJF
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Reged: 07/08/17
Posts: 354
Loc: United States
Re: Charles Lancaster oval bore rifles [Re: 93x64mm]
      #392818 - 06/08/25 06:33 AM

Thank you. And Bertram has a new US distributor, which is promising. I went with the 500/416 brass because it was so inexpensive...100 cases for $49 US$. So if these work, I'll be well ahead of paying the current ~$100+ for 20 cases. I sure wish Hornady would get back in the game with at 450 3.25".

I know what you mean about 'safe spots' as I've been cleaning my gunroom and keep finding forgotten 'safe spots'.

Edited by CJF (06/08/25 07:56 AM)


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casper50
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Re: Charles Lancaster oval bore rifles [Re: CJF]
      #392847 - 08/08/25 02:57 PM

Chris I have a Lang .450 3 1/4" hammergun as well. I haven't slugged the bores as of yet but plan to soon. So yours's slugged at .452?

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CJF
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Reged: 07/08/17
Posts: 354
Loc: United States
Re: Charles Lancaster oval bore rifles [Re: casper50]
      #392853 - 09/08/25 02:36 AM

Mike, I didn't slug the bores on the Lancaster, just eyeballed how far the bullet would enter the muzzle compared to how far it entered a barrel I had slugged. The .452 bullet was selected for my Edward Lang boxlock which has tight bores. I had NfB loaded rounds using JHP in .452 and LFN in .458 left over from our Colorado trip and just tried those in the Lancaster. The larger .458 bullets performed better, but both loads would be fine for whitetail within 75 yards.

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