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I’m interested in what the forum thinks;


Are there industrial glues that work in DRs?

Lots of bonding agents can deal with huge forces and temperature - many are oven cured.

Has anyone used these in a build?

I started wondering how to get Cerakote on a DR and here we are digging deeper….

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Curiosity: I'm guessing that you imagining joining the barrels and/or ribs with a permanent adhesive? The lumps?
This begs the question of how one would get the barrels regulated (or if need be, re regulated) if joined in such a manner?

This brings to mind the "California Rigby" double rifles of which I had read that the ribs (at least on some of them) were "glued" in place.
Can you say Bodger Gunsmithing?
- Mike

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"Will Rogers never met a fighter pilot"
- Anon

“Always carry a flask of whiskey in case of snakebite, and furthermore always carry a small snake."
-- W. C. Fields

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Quote:

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I’m interested in what the forum thinks;


Are there industrial glues that work in DRs?

Lots of bonding agents can deal with huge forces and temperature - many are oven cured.

Has anyone used these in a build?

I started wondering how to get Cerakote on a DR and here we are digging deeper….

---

Curiosity: I'm guessing that you imagining joining the barrels and/or ribs with a permanent adhesive? The lumps?
This begs the question of how one would get the barrels regulated (or if need be, re regulated) if joined in such a manner?

This brings to mind the "California Rigby" double rifles of which I had read that the ribs (at least on some of them) were "glued" in place.
Can you say Bodger Gunsmithing?
- Mike

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More or less.


As for regulation, it would be as now, held in place by another means prior to final joining. Re-regulating would be another matter.


There is nothing bodgy about a well researched and planned process, which is why I am asking.

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Solder has a higher melting point than any temp. for curing Cerakote.

:"Pure Lead: it has no additives or alloys and melts at 327.5°C or 621.5°F. Lead-Antimony Alloy: because lead has been compounded with antimony, it melts at a higher temperature. Lead-Tin Alloy: generally has a low melting point range of between 183-255°C or 361-491°F based on the composition."

I am not familiar with the the glues/epoxies you are talking about.
The strongest glues I am familiar with, break adhesion at 300F.

I let Google search for me and found this JB Weld Product:
"About this product:
HighHeat is a hand mixable epoxy putty stick specifically formulated to bond and repair materials that will be exposed to high temperatures in automotive and industrial maintenance applications. It cures to a tough, hard bond with little to no shrinkage. This industrial-strength product outperforms conventional epoxy putties at high temperatures and sets in 1 hr at room temperature. After 8 hr, it can be drilled, tapped, machined, ground, filed and painted. HighHeat is rated at a tensile strength of 800 psi and cures to a machine grey in color. It is able to withstand continuous heat exposure of 400 deg F and intermittent heat exposure to 550 deg F.

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