JPBojinov
.224 member
Reged: 27/07/10
Posts: 17
Loc: Bulgaria
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Hello,
Can someone elaborate on the amount force needed to tighten the action screws.
I'm currently leaving my mauser for a new stock.And want to be ready to assemble it once I get it back from the stocksmith.
Btw does someone know if the recoil lug should be touching the wood anywhere except at it`s back surface?
Thanks.
Best regards,
Jordan.
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Huvius
.416 member
Reged: 04/11/07
Posts: 3614
Loc: Colorado
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In my experience, the action screws on a Mauser simply tighten until they stop with a firm turn of the driver.
Really, a feel thing rather than an actual measurement of torque.
I don't ever recall any coming loose either but if you are worried, it wont hurt to put a little wax under the screw heads which helps to keep them tight but may be more psychological than functional.
I have heard of mixing fine walnut sawdust with modeling wax or accraglass to build up the wood under the screw heads if you are dealing with a stock which has been grossly over tightened or if you want your screw slots in time.
As far as the recoil lug, both mating surfaces, meaning the rear of the lug which contacts the wood and the front surface of the lug where it contacts the back surface of the action lug are important. There should be as little gap as possible at either contact to really distribute recoil throughout the stock.
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He who lives in the past is doomed to enjoy it.
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DarylS
.700 member
Reged: 10/08/05
Posts: 27690
Loc: Beautiful British Columbia, Ca...
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Yes - the flat behind the recoil lug AND the recoil lug's bearing surface both need to be bedded.
The sides, front and bottom should not be touching.
Most or many, that is, also bed 1" of the barrel shank as well - never onto the tapered section of the barrel, to help support the barrel, due to the short threaded shank. Bedding the entire barrel in the stock is not done very often, anymore. It is secure, but oft times, total bedding shifts point of impact as the barrel warms up with repeated shooting.
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Daryl
"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V
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DoubleD
.400 member
Reged: 23/11/03
Posts: 2482
Loc: Retired in Oklahoma
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At school they taught us to tighten the front action screw with your fist as tight as you can get. Tighten the rear as tight as you can get it with two fingers.
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DD, Ret.
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JPBojinov
.224 member
Reged: 27/07/10
Posts: 17
Loc: Bulgaria
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Thanks,I'll relay this info to the stocksmith. Maybe we can try bedding the barrel shank also.
BR,
Jordan.
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JPBojinov
.224 member
Reged: 27/07/10
Posts: 17
Loc: Bulgaria
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Recently I had some issues with the cartridge feed particularly with the 4th cartridge.It seems to eject out of the magazine in some occasions even with the slightest touch...However this doesn`t happen with the second cartridge I feed. Have any of you encountered such a problem? Can it be related to a weak magazine spring? Maybe some follower issue? Any other suggestions?
Thanks.
BR,
Jordan.
P.S. I was wondering if there is a way to bend the bolt handle other than cutting and welding it in the new position.
Edited by JPBojinov (13/07/15 09:28 PM)
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VonGruff
.400 member
Reged: 08/02/09
Posts: 1119
Loc: South Otago, New Zealand.
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Quote:
Recently I had some issues with the cartridge feed particularly with the 4th cartridge.It seems to eject out of the magazine in some occasions even with the slightest touch...However this doesn`t happen with the second cartridge I feed. Have any of you encountered such a problem? Can it be related to a weak magazine spring? Maybe some follower issue? Any other suggestions?
Thanks.
BR,
Jordan.
Is the rifle chambered for the original cartridge??
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Von Gruff.
Exodus 20:1-17
Acts 4:10-12
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JPBojinov
.224 member
Reged: 27/07/10
Posts: 17
Loc: Bulgaria
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Quote:
Quote:
Recently I had some issues with the cartridge feed particularly with the 4th cartridge.It seems to eject out of the magazine in some occasions even with the slightest touch...However this doesn`t happen with the second cartridge I feed. Have any of you encountered such a problem? Can it be related to a weak magazine spring? Maybe some follower issue? Any other suggestions?
Thanks.
BR,
Jordan.
Is the rifle chambered for the original cartridge??
Yes, It`s in 8x57is.
The rifle is a mauser 98 regular action with a lotar walther 20 inch barrel(recknagel fast "iron" sights on the barrel). I put an adjustable timney trigger on it and a dakota arms 3 position horizontal safety(winchester m70 style).It also has a custom made weaver rail on top of the action.
Best Regards,
Jordan.
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JPBojinov
.224 member
Reged: 27/07/10
Posts: 17
Loc: Bulgaria
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Hello,
A little update on the feeding problem.
Today I had some free time and decided to troubleshoot.
Removed the firing pin and filled the magazine with cartridges.
Started cycling the bolt. It appears that the last cartridge jams the bolt.The last cartridge`s front hits the front magazine wall and it`s bottom stands at some odd angle and jams into the machined recess on the bolt(between the gas vent ports) where the extractor "spring"(tin,whatever this part that is holding the extractor to the bolt is called)is placed(36 on the following picture http://www.gun-parts.com/mauser/Mau%20P.jpg).
If the last cartridge is in it`s right position there are no problems with the feeding.
Has anyone else experienced something like that? Do you have any idea on how to fix this?
Btw one more question,should the extractor touch the barrel when the bolt is closed? I noticed a small mark on the barrel where the extractor touches. I painted the extractor face with a black marker and closed it off. The mark on the barrel matches the scratch on the extractor face.
Best regards,
Jordan.
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DarylS
.700 member
Reged: 10/08/05
Posts: 27690
Loc: Beautiful British Columbia, Ca...
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Many Mausers appreciate about 1/2" to 1" of bedding ahead of the front action ring on the shank. The bottom of the recoil lug should not be contacting bedding material, thus the action can be drawn down hard against the flat behind the lug. The the sides nor the front should be in contact, either. This was taught to me by the accuracy shooters I played with back in the 70's - when many of us used 98's (mostly VZ's) for our match actions. The sides have some taper and this can cause unwanted wedging. The top side surface of the action can be a snug fit through a 'ring' of bedding around the action. The tank should also be bed to that area. there are mixed feelings about the rear surface of the tang. Some feel it should be not bedded hard, while others demand it. The loose crowd think if the rear of the tang is bed to the stock, this does not allow movement and will split the wrist. The others feel if the action is properly bed at the recoil lug, it cannot and must not move - I belong to that crowd and have never split a wrist behind the tang.
The extractor should have a couple thou clearance to the barrel's rear surface, imho. The barrel should bottom against the inner ring. This is what I was taught.
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Daryl
"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V
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Ripp
.577 member
Reged: 19/02/07
Posts: 16072
Loc: Montana, USA
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Quote:
At school they taught us to tighten the front action screw with your fist as tight as you can get. Tighten the rear as tight as you can get it with two fingers.
On mine i follow similar to above--however i measure it ..I tighten the front to 62 in/lbs (have a special wrench to measure it) the rear turn it in but not tight..just to that point if that makes sense
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ALL MEN DIE, BUT FEW MEN TRULY LIVE..
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OT3
.224 member
Reged: 12/07/15
Posts: 7
Loc: WA, USA
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I use a torque wrench on my rifles and tighten the front screw of Mauser rifles to 45 inch pounds and the rear screw to 35 inch pounds with a bedding post on the rear screw.
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The unknown Engineer
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JPBojinov
.224 member
Reged: 27/07/10
Posts: 17
Loc: Bulgaria
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Feeding problem diagnosed. It`s the extractor collar(it doesn`t fit the bolt very well and cartridges are caught on the opened edges). I just ordered a new one,once it`s installed everything should be OK.
In the mean time I bought a blaser r93 in 9.3x62... 
Best Regards,
Jordan.
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