mckinney
.400 member
Reged: 29/01/09
Posts: 1245
Loc: usa
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Is this the first time you've fired the rifle or was it shooting better before? Not being very adept at adjusting these things myself, I'd send it to someone like Champlin or G&H to have it regulated. I haven't done that before, but that would be my instinct. Shooting 12 inches high is no good. Like having a bent putter that requires you to play for 12 inches of break on a straight putt. With that as a starting point, it's hard to do anything accurately, and it really gets ugly with putts that aren't straight.
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500Nitro
.450 member
Reged: 06/01/03
Posts: 7244
Loc: Victoria, Australia
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Re making it go faster, the recoil on the 318WR with 250gn
is getting up there and it's not that easy to push it much faster.
On a separate note, what was the Kynoch fps of the 318WR.
Anyone have it off the top of their head ?
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mckinney
.400 member
Reged: 29/01/09
Posts: 1245
Loc: usa
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The new Kynoch shows an even 2400 fps for the 250 grain bullet. Whether it does that or not, don't know, but the new stuff is generally supposed to be loaded to old spec.
Casper, I assume the barrel on the rifle is not shot out. Does it group decently at 12 inches high?
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casper50
.400 member
Reged: 18/10/07
Posts: 1562
Loc: Alaska
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As good as my older eyes can see. I'm limited to 100yds with iron sights. Peeps get me up to 200yds. Dark grooves but good strong rifling.
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500Nitro
.450 member
Reged: 06/01/03
Posts: 7244
Loc: Victoria, Australia
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Casper
Re not having good eyes, that front sight as it is doesn't help.
Firstly, polish the brass bit of it as it helps to see it.
Secondly, when you get your new sight, if you file it at an
angle of 35 - 45 degrees and then polish it, the light will reflect straight back down the barrel at you making it easier to sight.
In addition, at that angle the sight picture stays the same
where as with a round bead, depending on where the sun is can change your sight picture without you knowing.
Hope that helps.
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casper50
.400 member
Reged: 18/10/07
Posts: 1562
Loc: Alaska
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When shooting iron sights at targets I always use a fold down peep on my glasses. Makes things clear. Can't do it when hunting but that just makes me get closer.
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VonGruff
.400 member
Reged: 08/02/09
Posts: 1119
Loc: South Otago, New Zealand.
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Quote:
Casper
I copied this from AR as I don't have my sheet.
Put your particular numbers in this formula and you are good to go.
If you are shooting 6 inches high at 50 yards and there is 24inches between your front and rear sight then
6 x 24 = 144 divided by (50x36=1800) =.08 and that is how much you would need to file the rear sight down or get a front sight .08 higher.
You could have coppied the rest of my post with the formula so Casper can work out what the numbers relate to. This was my full post.
The formula for sight height correction is "FORS" front oposite rear same and to get the amount of correction is also simple with the amount of error in inches multiplied by the sight radius in inches divided by the distance to target in inches.
If you are shooting 6 inches high at 50 yards and there is 24inches between your front and rear sight then
6 x 24 = 144 divided by (50x36=1800) =.08 and that is how much you would need to file the rear sight down or get a front sight .08 higher.
Put your particular numbers in this formula and you are good to go.
Von Gruff.
--------------------
Von Gruff.
Exodus 20:1-17
Acts 4:10-12
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500Nitro
.450 member
Reged: 06/01/03
Posts: 7244
Loc: Victoria, Australia
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Von Gruff.
Sorry, I thought I did copy all of it, my apoloigise.
I also thought I put your name in so people knew who did it.
Thanks for filling it out.
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DarylS
.700 member
Reged: 10/08/05
Posts: 27783
Loc: Beautiful British Columbia, Ca...
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Quote:
All my rifles are set for 6 O'clock
Casper - on what size bullseye and where do they strike, ie: how high above the bead or blade are they. If a bead front sight, you'd have to add to the actual elevation one half of the diameter of the bead at any range. So- at 100yards, if the bead subtended 6", and to see the bead below a thoretical bullseye of 6" diameter, you'd have to hold roughly 1" low. Add them together that to hit the centre of the bull, the bullet would have to strike 3" (1/2 bead dia.) + 1" (visual clearance to see sight at 6 o'clock) + 3" (1/2 diameter of a 6" bullseye) above the centre of the bead - so- the bullet would have to strike an actual 7" higher than the centre of the bead. Since the bead covers more and more target at longer ranges - how do you figure where the bullet is in relation to the top of the bead?
Sorry but I cannot see any advantage to having to aim under everything due to the huge elevation given.
I would re-sight them all - correctly, to hit centre of the bead at 100yards with the 100yards sight. Thus, the sights would then be trust worthy.
A 6 o'clockhold with a bead just doesn't work well on game animals or paper. - A blade front sight as on military rifles does however, work well on paper targets - at known ranges & standard military targets are being fired upon.
in my opinion
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Daryl
"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V
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VonGruff
.400 member
Reged: 08/02/09
Posts: 1119
Loc: South Otago, New Zealand.
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Quote:
Von Gruff.
Sorry, I thought I did copy all of it, my apoloigise. not necessary
I also thought I put your name in so people knew who did it. I also got it from elsewhere
Thanks for filling it out.
Von Gruff.
--------------------
Von Gruff.
Exodus 20:1-17
Acts 4:10-12
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mauserand9mm
.400 member
Reged: 03/09/09
Posts: 1079
Loc: Queensland, Australia
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I'm not the best shot in the world, but you can use a 6 o'clock hold with a bead accurately on a target providing you have a good steady position and the right type of target (eg white background with a black circular centre), but that comes undone in less stable positions or for quick shots where you tend to centre the bead and therefore go high.
I find a 6 o'clock hold with a bead is not too far removed from the military Mauser front "spire" blade, and I guess this is where my habit developed from.
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