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Shooting & Reloading - Mausers, Big Bores and others >> Muzzleloaders & Blackpowder

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Tatume
.400 member

Reged: 09/06/07
Posts: 1091
Loc: Gloucester, Va USA

Charring
#200229 - 22/01/12 12:21 AM

Hello Folks,

Some guns will char the wood near the ignition source (caplock nipple or flash pan), while other's won't. I've seen some antique guns that had the wood burned away from the metal so as to leave a gap, with charcoal present.

When I notice this beginning on one of my guns I will put a heavy coat of grease on the area when I'm shooting, and remove it when I clean. I use the same grease I use to waterproof my flinklock when hunting in the rain or snow. It's a messy way to go. Are there any other ways to protect the wood?

--------------------
Take care, Tom
NRA Life Member

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tinker
.416 member

Reged: 12/03/05
Posts: 4835
Loc: Nevada

Re: Charring [Re: Tatume]
#200237 - 22/01/12 02:15 AM

I've used stainless foil to wrap parts for heat-treat, very thin foil.
This came to mind as I read your question.
Perhaps a small local bit of such foil at the flash hole on your stock..?

Is there even a few thousandths of an inch gap there between wood and metal where you could set a bit of foil?

This foil could be removed and discarded after each hunt.

Just a thought.
Never tried this myself.

Cheers
Tinker

--------------------
--Self-Appointed Colonel, DRSS--

"It IS a dangerous game, and so named for a reason, and you can't play from the keyboard. " --Some Old Texan...

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CowboyCS
.333 member

Reged: 05/10/07
Posts: 386
Loc: Kansas u.S.A.

Re: Charring [Re: tinker]
#200239 - 22/01/12 02:39 AM

On a Flintlock this is "usually" caused by a gap between the barrel and pan, it's fairly easy to fix on a Flintlock. The lock just needs to be inlet a little deeper until the barrel and pan are a perfect fit. Sometimes depending on how deep you have to go, the wood on the lock panel may have to be scrapped down and refinished, but most times the gap is very small and inletting a little deeper won't be noticeable on the surface.

Caplocks on the other are a different matter, the fence and breech design are supposed to prevent the flash of the cap from reaching the wood, so if you are seeing charring around the breech wood it usually means a considerable amount of metal work to fix it properly. Either the Fence or the breech will have to be modified to protect the wood properly.

Colin

--------------------
The Bill of Rights- Void were prohibited by law
Stolzer & Son's Gunsmithing

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Tatume
.400 member

Reged: 09/06/07
Posts: 1091
Loc: Gloucester, Va USA

Re: Charring [Re: tinker]
#200246 - 22/01/12 05:11 AM

Quote:

I've used stainless foil to wrap parts for heat-treat, very thin foil.
This came to mind as I read your question.
Perhaps a small local bit of such foil at the flash hole on your stock..?

Is there even a few thousandths of an inch gap there between wood and metal where you could set a bit of foil?

This foil could be removed and discarded after each hunt.

Just a thought.
Never tried this myself.

Cheers Tinker

Thanks Tinker. I once mounted a scope on a sidelock muzzleloader, and wrapped the scope in aluminum foil to protect it. It worked, but I tired of the scope and took it off. Still, it's a good idea.

--------------------
Take care, Tom
NRA Life Member

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Tatume
.400 member

Reged: 09/06/07
Posts: 1091
Loc: Gloucester, Va USA

Re: Charring [Re: CowboyCS]
#200247 - 22/01/12 05:12 AM

Quote:

On a Flintlock this is "usually" caused by a gap between the barrel and pan, it's fairly easy to fix on a Flintlock. The lock just needs to be inlet a little deeper until the barrel and pan are a perfect fit. Sometimes depending on how deep you have to go, the wood on the lock panel may have to be scrapped down and refinished, but most times the gap is very small and inletting a little deeper won't be noticeable on the surface.

Caplocks on the other are a different matter, the fence and breech design are supposed to prevent the flash of the cap from reaching the wood, so if you are seeing charring around the breech wood it usually means a considerable amount of metal work to fix it properly. Either the Fence or the breech will have to be modified to protect the wood properly.

Colin

Thanks for the advice Colin. I'll inspect my guns for the conditions you describe.

--------------------
Take care, Tom
NRA Life Member

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DarylS
.700 member

Reged: 10/08/05
Posts: 26992
Loc: Beautiful British Columbia, Ca...

Re: Charring [Re: Tatume]
#200271 - 22/01/12 12:13 PM

I have not had the problem with either flint nor caplocks that I have. Sorry, cannot suggest anything. My caplocks have patent breeches which protects the wood and the pan, fence and frizzen do that on the flinters.

Perhaps it is a gap problem as Coin notes.
The flinters get a big of fouling on the wood ahead of the lock, but it is not burning the wood.

Poor leaking threads I suppose or holes bored by Pyrodex phony powder fouling can cause burning the wood. I've seen that happen on 2 guns so far, a custom rifle and a TC, where the breech plug was actually perforated, ie: achannel eaten through to the outside. The custom rifle's hole went out the bottom of the breech block, which pressure-burnt a groove and hole into the stock beneath the barrel in just a few shotws. The owner was lucky he spotted it and the gun could be repaired.

--------------------
Daryl

"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V

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