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Double Rifles, Single Shots & Combinations >> Building Double Rifles & Gunsmithing

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Tom_H
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Reged: 13/04/05
Posts: 336
Loc: Southeast, NY
Sleeving question
      #180179 - 28/04/11 09:21 AM

When cutting off the breech on a double to sleeve as a shotgun, should you cut at the end of the barrel flats or the length of the chambers?

I am sleeving a 16ga 2 5/8 to 3" 20ga.

Thanks

Tom

--------------------
Carbonation without fermentation is tyranny


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Birdhunter50
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Reged: 03/06/07
Posts: 815
Loc: Iowa,U.S.A.
Re: Sleeving question [Re: Tom_H]
      #180491 - 02/05/11 08:46 AM

Tom,
I hope you realize that the 3 inch twenty gauge is going to reach higher chamber pressures than your short chambered 16 gauge does. The length you cut it off kind of depends on your 16 gauge barrel size and shape. Basicaly, you want the new sleever barrel to have as much available wall thickness as possible, yet still leave enough meat in the monoblock wall to hold it securely. If you can cut it off out at the three inch length and still have enough wall thickness left for the sleever to butt up against, then that's where I would cut it off. It is a balancing act for sure.
Good Luck with your project. Bob H.


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Tom_H
.333 member


Reged: 13/04/05
Posts: 336
Loc: Southeast, NY
Re: Sleeving question [Re: Birdhunter50]
      #180609 - 03/05/11 10:38 AM

Thanks for the info Bob.

Just curious, what is the pressure for the 65mm 16ga? I Was under the impression that shotguns typically ran at the same pressure ranges. The 20 has a smaller base therefore less bolt thrust than the 16 but not by much.

Here is the deal.

The portion of the 20 ga tubes that are turned for sleeving is .06 thick. On the last trial, I used a 12ga chamber reamer to bore the 16ga block and turned the 20ga blanks to match.

If I simply sleeve it to the 2.5" monoblock, I will have an outside thickness of .125 which is adequate, but there is still .5 of chamber past the seam that they are joined at.

If I cut the monoblock at 3", the quick taper of the original barrels leaves me with around .100 thickness but with a .5 stub past the block.

The question is whether one is actually better than the other?

The next step is to find a proper rib. More of a raised shotgun rib than a rifle style as I plan to have it usable as either.

Thanks

Tom

--------------------
Carbonation without fermentation is tyranny


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Ron_Vella
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Reged: 29/04/05
Posts: 432
Loc: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
Re: Sleeving question [Re: Tom_H]
      #180652 - 03/05/11 10:17 PM

Tom,
A chamber reamer is tapered, from rear to front. You cannot use one to do a sleeving job and expect to have anywhere near a proper fit. You need to use a regular cylindrical reamer. Assuming that you've turned a shank on yout replacement barrels in a lathe, then that is the bore that you need to create in your monoblock.


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Tom_H
.333 member


Reged: 13/04/05
Posts: 336
Loc: Southeast, NY
Re: Sleeving question [Re: Ron_Vella]
      #180698 - 04/05/11 08:15 AM

Thanks Ron, hadn't thought of that. Actually it's a forcing cone reamer which should have the same taper although I haven't checked it.
Surprisingly, it seemed to work quite well on the first job. I will double check this time and if need be I can chase the chamber with an expanding reamer to knock the extra thou off.

Tom

--------------------
Carbonation without fermentation is tyranny


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