Home | Ezine | Forums | Links | Contact
NitroExpress.com: H777

View recent messages : 24 hours | 48 hours | 7 days | 14 days | 30 days | 60 days | More Smilies


*** Enjoy NitroExpress.com? Participate and join in. ***

Shooting & Reloading - Mausers, Big Bores and others >> Muzzleloaders & Blackpowder

Pages: 1
Mike_Bailey
.400 member


Reged: 26/02/07
Posts: 2289
Loc: GB
H777
      #176932 - 11/03/11 03:02 AM

Hi all, a few years ago I posted here ref using Pyrodex in my 1850 harkom 14 bore shotgun. I know a lot of you didnīt like the stuff but black powder restrictions in UK are a nightmare. Knowing Pyrodex is corrosive though I can get hold of hodgdon 777 no problem and I thought it might be kinder on the old girl and easier to clean, any thoughts of a load ? I used 3 drams and 1 1/4 oz with pyrodex. Also cleaning products recommended with H777 ? thanks in advance, Mike

Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
Tatume
.400 member


Reged: 09/06/07
Posts: 1091
Loc: Gloucester, Va USA
Re: H777 [Re: Mike_Bailey]
      #176937 - 11/03/11 05:03 AM

Hi Mike,

H777 cleans up beautifully with nothing but cold water. I've used it for years. Run one damp patch, two dry patches, one damp patch, two dry patches, and a patch with T/C 1000+ Bore Butter, and you'll be fine. The second damp patch will probably be clean, so use it to clean the area around the breech. The Bore Butter patch will probably be clean also, so wipe down the barrels on the outside with it.

Despite all the stories to the contrary, I have had absolutely no corrosion, not even the slightest bit, with this cleaning regimen. I don't let my guns sit around after shooting, I clean them right away. As an experiment, I shot my 54 cal Hawken about 20 shots, cleaned it as described above, and put it away for a year. A careful examination revealed a perfect bore. I let it sit another year, and again, perfection.

Make certain there is not a trace of Pyrodex in your bores. Clean them completely, down to bare metal. Then wipe them with T/C 1000+ Bore Butter, and use Bore Butter on your patches. I don't know how important the T/C 1000+ Bore Butter is, because I've never used H777 without it. It might be that it is critical to success, and people have used H777 without T/C 1000+ Bore Butter and had problems; I don't know.

H777 is more difficult to ignite than black powder. In my flintlock rifles I have to use a black powder priming charge. As a result, it is necessary to clean for black powder. Since there is no advantage to H777 in the flintlock, I just use black powder.

--------------------
Take care, Tom
NRA Life Member


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
Oldbrit
.333 member


Reged: 04/04/10
Posts: 381
Loc: UK
Re: H777 [Re: Tatume]
      #176951 - 11/03/11 08:23 AM

Mike,

Where do you get the H777 in the UK?


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
DoubleD
.400 member


Reged: 23/11/03
Posts: 2437
Loc: Retired in Oklahoma
Re: H777 [Re: Oldbrit]
      #176963 - 11/03/11 01:05 PM

Triple 7 like Pyrodex contains potassium perchlorate and is corrosive..

Here are some cases that were shot with nothing but T-7. These cases were carefully washed, cleaned and tumble polished then stored for two years.



--------------------
DD, Ret.

Edited by CptCurl (19/03/12 10:15 AM)


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
Mike_Bailey
.400 member


Reged: 26/02/07
Posts: 2289
Loc: GB
Re: H777 [Re: DoubleD]
      #176973 - 11/03/11 05:57 PM

Oldbrit, Aftab Reloading Systems in Oxford, they are out of stock at the moment but new supplies coming in in 2 weeks time, best, Mike

Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
DarylSModerator
.700 member


Reged: 10/08/05
Posts: 26992
Loc: Beautiful British Columbia, Ca...
Re: H777 [Re: Mike_Bailey]
      #176988 - 12/03/11 05:00 AM

Mike - clean the gun and cases, then clean the gun and cases, WEEKLY until you are satsified it is clean.

Perchlorate fouling, can cause deep, sharp-edged and angular pitting, not just rust in steel and iron. Successive firing, deepens these sharp edged and angular pits with each firing impluse - it is nasty stuff.

If you can possibly get real black powder, please do so.

I hate this subject.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
Tatume
.400 member


Reged: 09/06/07
Posts: 1091
Loc: Gloucester, Va USA
Re: H777 [Re: DarylS]
      #176990 - 12/03/11 05:49 AM

Yeah, me too.

--------------------
Take care, Tom
NRA Life Member


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
Tatume
.400 member


Reged: 09/06/07
Posts: 1091
Loc: Gloucester, Va USA
Re: H777 [Re: Tatume]
      #176993 - 12/03/11 06:45 AM

Here is what Hodgdon had to say on the matter:

Yes, there are perchlorate salts in the combustion residue of Triple Seven. However, there is not a great deal of perchlorate present. It is easily cleaned from the firearm with water.

I would suggest that the sulfur salts present after the combustion of black powder are more corrosive than the products of combustion created by Triple Seven. Tests conducted by the DOD and NASA confirm this.

Our testing indicates that if we use a scale with smokeless powder at one end with a value of zero and black powder at the other end with a value of 100, Triple Seven would be about 30 on the scale. While less corrosive than black powder, it is certainly corrosive and any firearm used with it should be cleaned after use.

The whole argument these guys make is rather irritating as you must clean the rifle after the use of all muzzleloading powders so there is no problem with corrosion anyway unless the shooter is lazy or does a poor job of cleaning.

Mike Daly

Customer Satisfaction Manager
The Hodgdon Family of Fine Propellants
Hodgdon Smokeless Powders
Winchester Legendary Propellants
IMR Propellants
Pyrodex
Triple Seven
Goex Black Powder

--------------------
Take care, Tom
NRA Life Member


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
DarylSModerator
.700 member


Reged: 10/08/05
Posts: 26992
Loc: Beautiful British Columbia, Ca...
Re: H777 [Re: Tatume]
      #176998 - 12/03/11 09:14 AM

BP fouling, with humidity over 30% will cause rust - which in turn will cause some pitting, fine pits to coarse, depending on how badly the item is allowed to rust. That is why you have to clean it out after using it - cleaned, dried and it's done - no rust, no pits.

I know little about it, but I know this - BP fouling below 30% humidity is inert - INERT. Add some moisture and it will cause rust - oxidation, not pits until oxidation has been left for a long period of time- then fine shallow pitting. The phony powders with chlorates cause sharp-edged, undercut and "V" shaped deep pitting - without additional moisture & will do this under under an oiled surface.

I've seen it myself - guy even claimed to clean the guns twice a day apart after using - all the time. I watched him clean his barrels in hunting camp (he was a client - 2 seasons I was there) and he did it right, taking the barrel off and flushing water in and out, then drying and oiling, then washing again the next day even though not used. He always had trouble loading. No wonder - pits. In a 2 year period, he ruined both barrels for his custom English rifle - that Taylor built him. The chlorates actually ate into and almost through the side of the cast breech plug. We have the plug - the fellow used both Pyrodex and T-7 - whatever was handy.

2 TC barrels same guy decided needed re-bluing, sent to a commercial barrel bluing guy with tanks & Brownells bluing supplies, and when they came back, plugs removed (or the first time for degreasing and lbluding) he noticed both tubes were pitted one end to the other, but mostly breech to about 5" from the muzzles. Were they pitted before? Who knows, millions of barrels have been blued with bluing salts and not hurt in the slightest - they are boiled in fresh water to stop the process, even old barrels (and actions) with some pitting - without inceasing the pitting.

He thought to try to sue the gun smith, but I told him it might have something to do with the crap he was shooting. What the outcome was, I don't know. Both those barrels are in Taylor's rafters for show - sharp edged craters of pits that will cut skin if drug across the edges. I'd not seen pits like that until I saw a barrel in which the guy thought soaking it with clorox would remove copper. Yeah- similar caverns of pits- sharp edged, looking just like the phony powder pits.

The results looked very similar - and to the 2 Muzzle Loading GM barrels he ruined with that powder.

I have nothing to gain or lose whether or not you use those powders. I shudder to think of someone using them in a valuable antique and be severally disappointed as a result.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
500Nitro
.450 member


Reged: 06/01/03
Posts: 7244
Loc: Victoria, Australia
Re: H777 [Re: DarylS]
      #176999 - 12/03/11 09:20 AM


One thing I learnt in the military - and then applied to shooting my DR's is regardless of how well you clean them on the day, steel sweats and needs to be cleaned again once or twice if going to be stored for a period.

It is amazing how much crap comes out of a barrel over the following week.

.


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
DarylSModerator
.700 member


Reged: 10/08/05
Posts: 26992
Loc: Beautiful British Columbia, Ca...
Re: H777 [Re: 500Nitro]
      #192448 - 25/10/11 05:22 AM

We've been going over this subject yet again, on another forum & some interesting and important information has come to 'light'. Here is the 'text' from a chemical engineer on it's 'current' properties.

I now feel differently concerning this product.

The question I posed, was - "when did the maker of T-7 change the formula to eliminate the perchlorates"?

Quote:

A good question. When I had first looked at the MSDS I noted the listing of potassium perchlorate yet I could not find any measurable amount when I took my sample apart in water and evaporated it to look at the various crystal shapes. The shape of the crystals gives an idea of what they are.

After a few weeks I looked at the MSDS from another view versus what I had found in my sample. The main ingredient, sodium dinitrobenzoate sulfonate was not listed as such. Just as a proprietary ingredient. In other words a company secret.
At that time I had just finished up 6 months of communications and raw material samples with a man working in the ATF improvised explosives devices forensic lab. So I contacted him regarding what I had found in the 777. He then obtained a sample and verified my findings through their GS/MS equipment.

I suspected this. Had they developed an entirely new formulation powder they would have had to spend a bundle of bucks on getting it certified through an independent lab. A lot of time and a lot of expense. But if you make a modification to an existing formulation you can generally avoid all of that. So the MSDS info may not be an exact match to what I found to fit into the idea of a slight modification to an existing product formulation.
The patent for Pyrodex had expired several years before this 777 came out. So anybody could have made it on a commercial basis and not been involved in patent infringement litigation.

After working with the 777 for awhile I came to realize that the switch from sodium benzoate to the dinitro version was a logical evolution to cure a few problems seen in 20 years of use of Pyrodex in the field. The switch to the dinitro benzoate eliminated the need for the healthy slug of perchlorate seen in Pyrodex. The chemical texts describe this dinitro benzoate as being highly reactive with charcoal. Which the sodium benzoate is not.

Then there had been field use problems with Pyrodex in that if you did not store it properly it would undergo chemical change. Not a change that would cause it to blow up or blow up a gun. The chemical change would result in erratic ignition properties, erratic muzzle velocities and finally it simply would not work.
There is a previous post that describes this in the poster's gun.






In reading over this quote a couple times, it becomes apparent to me that ALL T7 might be the new formulation and the 'old' formulation was indeed, the 'old' Pyrodex, which we KNOW was respondible for quickly rotting barrels if not perfectly cleaned and even rotting them when they were cleaned properly. It litterally ate/evapourated/disolved the iron molecules from the steel and does so even with stainless steel.

Changing the MSDS sheet would have eliminated all or at least most of the problems we've been most GRAVELY concerned about.

Also this from the same person.

Quote:

When this 777 first came out and I took it apart and identified what was in it I had questions on possible pressures. Beyond any question Hodgdon looked at this closely during the experimental batches leading up to the final product.
I noted that in my mule ear .50 cal round ball rifle the 777 came close to the then available Swiss powder. That told me that the 777 produced pressures close to those seen in the Swiss powder. Nothing to get excited about in most ml guns.

The only thing that rattled me was if these "strong" powders are used in one of the Spanish-made in-lines there could be problems. But in our ml guns with the fixed breech plugs I could see no danger.

Hodgdon put a lot of thought into this 777 powder. When I first tested it I remarked that if bp were to become unavailable I would switch flinters over to percussion and shoot the 777 in them. Good velocities even in reduced charges and easy cleanup. But if one gets carried away with the charge sizes one may expect to see some baked on fouling in the bore ahead of where the projectile sat on the charge. Which I saw in some of my Swiss powder testing. If you get powder combustion gas temperatures up close to the melting point of potassium carbonate (in the residue) you will see this fusion and sticking to the bore walls. Then you simply back off a bit on the charge size.

In my mule ear lock GPR the 777 worked almost perfectly. The side lock Trade Rifle was another matter entirely when it came to reliable ignition.

When the in-lines firing plastic saboted pistol bullets started to really sell Pyrodex presented problems in them. I watched this at the gun club one evening when shooting my flinter with Hilljack. Guy and his wife showed up with two brand new Knight "disk" in-line rifles. They came with a box of Pyrodex pellets and a bag of disks holding 209 shotgun primers. Nothing to clean the bore's with. So the guy loads up with two pellets and fires the rifle. Very accurate. Loads and fires a second shot. When he went to load the third plastic sabot it would not seat down on the pellets. He had to pull the breech plug and drive the sabot out the muzzle. So I loaned him some cleaning patches and my bottle of Lehigh lube. He then repreated the two shots with the third stuck.
Now the punch line to this was as he was going through this he was lecturing Hilljack and I on the evils of dirty black powder and unreliable flintlocks. For the whole time! Sounded like a stuck record! The funny part is that he was at the table next to us and his problems cut Hilljack's rate of fire with my .45 caliber flinter.

When I first looked at the 777 and took it apart it was clear to me that they removed most, if not all, of the potassium perchlorate found in Pyrodex to get rid of the little crysals of potassium chloride found after firing it. The problem with the plastic sabots was that as you pushed one down the bore the little crystals would be forced into the surfaces of the sabots to a point where you simply could not push them any further down the bore.
Then compared to Pyrodex they increased the ballistic strength to get velocities up. The in-line crowd expected near smokeless velocities. Without the smokeless pressure surge.

When 777 first came on the market they stated that it was intended for in-line ml rifles. They did not recommend that it be used in sidelock guns. Now we see that evolved to where it is suggested that the breech of a flintlock first be primed with a little black powder and then black powder in the pan. The breech prime of BP working like the little bag of bp in large-caliber artillery loadings as an "intermediate primer".





--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V

Edited by Daryl_S (25/10/11 05:39 AM)


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
Pages: 1



Extra information
0 registered and 43 anonymous users are browsing this forum.

Moderator:  DarylS 

Print Topic

Forum Permissions
      You cannot start new topics
      You cannot reply to topics
      HTML is disabled
      UBBCode is enabled

Rating:
Topic views: 5505

Rate this topic

Jump to

Contact Us NitroExpress.com

Powered by UBB.threads™ 6.5.5


Home | Ezine | Forums | Links | Contact


Copyright 2003 to 2011 - all rights reserved