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The subject of lowering the nipple seats is one I'd like to address. I need to get a hold of my buddies .58 to do some measuring to see if the nipple seat can be lowered. If so, it's a simple milling operation with an end-mill, then -re-start the threads for the nipple. It's possible the inner flash channel won't allow lower nipples - but that would be another design flaw. Too bad no one from Pedersoli fequents this forum - I'd like to have an e-mail barrage with him/her on design.

If the caps are still in place on the nipples after firing -good. Of course, the breech pressure with even 150gr. is still low even though the recoil is getting noticable.

As to Pyrodex - I'd suggest it be avoided. It is a chemical compositon, not a physical one and as such and with the chemicals involved, it leaves an acidic residue that is both hydroscopic and corrosive. Friend Dan P. says he can scope a barrel and tell if it's been used with Pyrodex. He's done a lot of shooting with ctg. and muzzleloading guns with about everything that passes for powder and has the experience in this regard- especially with pyrodex.

As to changing the nipples - you could do that. On the other hand, there are 'magnum-type' caps out there that have more or better intensity flashes and they might help.

Real BP, of course is the easiest to ignite, something just over 400F does it and that's why it's tougher to ship. Lucky for State's Side guys, there are shippers down there who ship it + the hazmat fee. Here, the blokes with the federal contract - they refuse to ship real BP. No one else is allowed to touch it. We all buy 25 pounds at a time at rondy's. Pyrodex and T7 is available locally for about $35.00 per can. Real BP - the good stuff, is $36.95 per can, but during the summer, it's around $18.00 at Rondy.

Because of it's cost and difficulty getting it to fire, we don't use the fake powders - too, they won't work in a flintlock anyway, without putting down some BP to get it going - what a pain just to use an inferior product. BP pressure are more consistent, accuracy is better and if loaded properly, doesn't foul. Your ball and patch need to be the right size and thickness - the crown must be correct to allow easy loading of proper combination. Smoothradius'd crown, ball .005" under bore size and a .018" to .025" denim patch depending on groove depth. the .72's have fairly shallow rifling, I'm told, and might benefit with a .010" smaller than bore size ball, and a .020" denim patch. If it isn't tight & the lube isn't right, BP fouls. Loaded correctly, you can shoot all day with maximum loads with never having to wipe the bore because the fouling NEVER builds up - and I don't care what rifle or smoothbore muzzleloader you are shooting, as long as the bore and grooves are relatively smooth. Smoothbores should use a ball that is .025" to .030" smaller than the bore and use a .020" denim patch. WW or pure lead works in smoothbores.

Some guys are experimenting with paper ctgs. and round balls, WW and pure lead and getting accuracy and power identical to patched round balls. Never shoot a slug in a bore rifle as they are inferior in killing or stopping power to a round ball. In doubles they become dangerous as the unfired slug will migrate forward - sometimes they both will, just being carried muzzle down. I've seen a guy with a TC walking along hunting with 1/2 a maxiball poking out his muzzle. This migration has rung other barrels, and the possibility should prevent their use in doubles. Said buddy tried them in his, and although they were cut by the lands when loaded, the left barrel's slug still moved forward when the right was shot. Slugs cannot be driven to anything like the speed of a round ball. Past 150 yards they may have a trajectory advantage, but to that, the ball is superior - how much game is shot past 150 yards with a muzzleloader. Hoppe's #9 PLUS works well for patch lube - hunting or plinking - winter or summer.

The most important part of the gun to allow loading of a proper combination, is the muzzle's crown - NO factory rifle comes with a proper crown that I've seen - I've seen a lot of them. If they even have a crown, some don't they are invarioably cut with a chamfer tool on a machine to cut time and costs and they all have sharp corners - some with flashing. Raduis those corners with your thumb and 320 emery cloth and the job is done - 10 min is all it takes from a machine-cut crown to a good smooth radiused crown. Lay the cloth on the surface,indent it hard with your thumb and rotate your hand, turning the gun 180 degrees every now and then. You can sue cutting fluid, or WD40 - or soap - or dry, doesn't matter. The corners must be 'broken' and smooth. This makes a good surface to swage the ball and patch into the grooves.

This missive covers a bit of stuff - hope it helps - check that crown and fix it if it needs this. Smooth corners allow seating tight combinations easily - tight combinations use all the powder's power and give the best accuracy and shoot the cleanest. When you load the next, you clean the last. There is no buildup.

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Daryl

"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V