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Shooting & Reloading - Mausers, Big Bores and others >> Muzzleloaders & Blackpowder

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BillfromOregon
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Reged: 27/10/04
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Loc: Sweetwater, by God Texas
Building a big bore
      #41882 - 18/11/05 05:17 PM

Anyone built a big-bore BP rifle, single-shot, percussion in say, 10-,12- or 14-bore? I have a hankering to build a rifle Samuel Baker would be happy to hunt with. Looking for thoughts on twist, barrel thickness, stock and lock supplier, bore dimensions, etc. for a conical shooter.

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500Nitro
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: BillfromOregon]
      #41884 - 18/11/05 05:43 PM

Bill

Quite a few Single shot 12 bore rifles were built over here
on the Greener GP Action. They turned out very well.
The other I think is the Ruger No 1 or 3 actions
but can't clearly remember.

I gather the Greener GP Action are strong actons
and easily take a 12 Bore barrel.

I am not a gunsmith and not into BP Bore Guns but
I liked them and they are very accurate.

Though I would hate to regulate one to the sights !!!

500 Nitro




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DarylSModerator
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: BillfromOregon]
      #41911 - 19/11/05 07:32 AM

I've been shooting a 14 bore English Sporting rifle since '86. With .684" ball weighing 484gr., it's a wonderful moose slammer.
: E-mail me if you want for more info.
: I do not consider inlines as muzzleloading rifles, merely modern rifles that load from the muzzle. They resemmble in no discernable way, a side-hammer round ball rifle. They, and scopes are responsible for us losing our primitive weapons hunting season for Moose.
: Conical bullets are not necessary for normal big game including grizzly bears. According to Forsyth, 14 bore round balls will exit an Indian Elephants head and are wonderful for Tiger. In a proper barrel, any hardness of lead may be shot when penetration of bone is necessary. When it's .69" in dia. expansion isn't really necesary.(12 guage full choke is .69". (40pts. of choke)
: Conicals lack shocking power due to reduced velocity. While round balls continue to exit on moose, I see no reason for any extra penetration a conical of that size might give. The recoil would be horrendous, to give a conical of 14 bore, the required velocity, to give a flat trajectory. I know, as I made a mould to cst them from 580gr. to 1,200gr. Slugs must be pure lead, which rivet too much on bone(from testing on bones). Bell himself liked the 14 bore and round balls in it, as quotes by him are in Forsyth's little book show.
: The rifle below, is the one I speak of. It has express sights regulated for 100yd., 150yd., 200yd. and the 300 meter gong at the range I shoot at. It's most accurate load is 6 drams (165gr.2F) which is also my hunting charge.
:
:

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V

Edited by CptCurl (17/07/11 09:55 PM)


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BillfromOregon
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Reged: 27/10/04
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: DarylS]
      #41925 - 19/11/05 02:32 PM

.500 Nitro: appreciate your thoughts, although I am looking for a percussion rifle.
Daryl: That's a damned bloody beautiful tool you are holding. Stock looks very well designed to distribute recoil forces, and the whole package seems very purposeful. What is the bore/groove diameter, and what twist rate?


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500Nitro
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: BillfromOregon]
      #41942 - 19/11/05 08:42 PM


Bill

I should have read your original post
a bit slower.

In regards to twist etc, why not just copy
the rate from old ones - their are quite a few
Purdey's, Hollands, Woodwards around that
would show you what's what.

500 Nitro


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tinker
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: DarylS]
      #41947 - 20/11/05 03:58 AM

Daryl-

That thing's a beauty.
I love my sixteen bore double rifles. I'm running .666 balls in one of them, and just got a mould marked to throw .678 balls, I suspect that with pure lead things are gonna be a bit smaller though, and I hope that's the case. I'll be pouring lead in a little while today and will know for sure.

Six drams is a lot of powder!
I'm running in the nieghborhood of 2-3/4 to 3-1/2 drams, one rifle takes more than the other does.
I wonder what your muzzle velocities are with that much FFg...
What kind of MV are you getting outta that thing?
What accuracy are you getting with it?
What is the rate of twist?
What are the bore/groove dims on that barrel?

When you tire of that heavy old iron, you're welcome to drop me a line and arrange for shipping it to me too...





--Tinker

--------------------
--Self-Appointed Colonel, DRSS--



"It IS a dangerous game, and so named for a reason, and you can't play from the keyboard. " --Some Old Texan...


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BillfromOregon
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: tinker]
      #41952 - 20/11/05 06:54 AM

Tinker: That's one of the many things that impresses me about Daryl's gun: that it handles a six-dram hunting load. That's the kind of power that Samuel Baker always talked about. How about sharing a photo of one of your 16-bore doubles? Sweet!

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tinker
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: BillfromOregon]
      #41959 - 20/11/05 10:45 AM

This is a damascus barreled 16b pinfire rig, set up for a gamekeeper with a bayonet lug. It shoots quite well.
Those two shots on the lower left corner of the target are the first two I ever shot with it. At that time the patina in the bores matched the patina on the outsides of the barrels. I don't think it'd ever been fired in the 20th century.


This is a fairly close shot of the action on my Mahillon SxS, it is also a pinfire rifle, although it is heavier (not heavy though, the other one is just quite light at seven pounds), has longer barrels, and takes a hotter charge of black powder. It is accurate and very handy.



I have shown these before on this website, so those of you who've seen these please excuse the use of bandwidth.

Oh, and for what it's worth to note, the Lyman .678" roundball mould throws balls of pure lead at around .670"
Should work out great for me too...

--Tinker

--------------------
--Self-Appointed Colonel, DRSS--



"It IS a dangerous game, and so named for a reason, and you can't play from the keyboard. " --Some Old Texan...

Edited by CptCurl (17/07/11 09:56 PM)


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BillfromOregon
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: tinker]
      #41962 - 20/11/05 11:38 AM

Just gorgeous, Tinker!

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tinker
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: BillfromOregon]
      #41977 - 20/11/05 01:31 PM

They really are.


That and they fit me well and are very nice to shoot too!



Still, I'm quite curious to hear what kind of velocity that single barrel muzzle loading rifle's getting with six drams of FFg...

--Tinker

--------------------
--Self-Appointed Colonel, DRSS--



"It IS a dangerous game, and so named for a reason, and you can't play from the keyboard. " --Some Old Texan...


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DoubleD
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: BillfromOregon]
      #41988 - 20/11/05 03:12 PM

Bill,

Check with John Appleton for a nice clean GP action. John has a bunch of GP's from England. They are not the cheap rode hard put away wet well worn surplus guard guns. If interested I would be willing to run out to John's for you and find you a nice tight clean one for John to ship to you.

Contact John Appleton - http://users.erols.com/apple1co

Check with Chick Donnelly for a barrel. He doesn't make bore barrels, but my money says he knows where to find one.

Chris Dieter at Pac-nor doesn't list any but my guess is he would build one.

Krieger has a 4 bore listed at http://www.kriegerbarrels.com/

--------------------
DD, Ret.


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BillfromOregon
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: DoubleD]
      #42010 - 21/11/05 03:23 AM



Howdy Doug: Really aiming for a muzzleloader, but thanks for the info on Appleton's GP actions. Gad: More choices!
Anyway, I would be happy with a 12-bore single that would handle the 835-grain NEI cottonspool, second from right, or the mystery 1100-grain semiwadcutter at right, over 6-7 drams. These two are left over from my brief but passionate fling with a Pedersoli Kodiak .72 double.
(Hope the photo works)

Edited by BillfromOregon (21/11/05 03:28 AM)


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BillfromOregon
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: BillfromOregon]
      #42013 - 21/11/05 04:51 AM

By the way, I used a Greenhill calculator for the .729 projectiles in the photo above, and the NEI cottonspool needs a twist of 85 inches, the monster wadcutter a twist of 64 inches and a .715 roundball a twist of 107 inches. I think the Pedersoli folks have it pretty well nailed with the 1:86 twist in their .72 Kodiak double.

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DoubleD
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: BillfromOregon]
      #42015 - 21/11/05 06:43 AM

Oops, Sorry Bill it was 500Nitro that transitioned to the Martini Action.

Well, darn, my mistake.

Here's my plan. Numrich has an 1 1/8 58 cal. 27 inch octagon muzzleloading barrel.

Since the GP is a take down action l thought I would build an inline muzzle loading barrel for the GP. Interchangeable 12 guage shotgun. 58 cal muzzle loader. Not a muzzleloading Paradox gun I know. But a something to take up my spare time when I retire.



--------------------
DD, Ret.


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DarylSModerator
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: tinker]
      #42038 - 21/11/05 11:00 AM

I used 2F in this rifle for heavy hunting loads and accuracy shooting. It would shoot up to 3 drams of 3F, equivalent velocity as 100gr. of 2F, but was on the edge of being too high pressure for the patches used at that level with WW balls. The accuracy with 3 dram 3F and light(up to 120gr.) 2F loads was poor - double those of heavy loads of 2F. In other words, 3" at 100 yards was the best it would do with light loads. As well, the trajectory became poor having a short point blank range. It is a delightful thing to have a point blank of 120 yards from a round ball gun where the ball is not more than 1-1/2" above nor below the line of sight. No large bore slug gun can compete with it, out to about 175yds or so. It also shot 4" groups at 150yards, and 8" at 200 yards, using the first 2 leafs. The third leaf is zero'd at 300 meters for a gong target sometimes shot at club competitions. This rifle has never missed that gong, no matter who was shooting it.
: The point blank range of 3 drams 3F and 100gr. 2F is only 80yards, where the ball is no more than 1 1/2" above or below the line of sight.
: It is being held by my hunting buddy, not me. He's the new owner. I traded it to him in a fit of mental illness (HA!).
: Unfortunately, the twist is faster than I'd prefer, being a Green River barrel(out of business now) with .714" groove dia, and .690" bore - .012" deep rifling and 60" twist. I used a .684" ball mould, Italian made with idential appearance to a Lyman mould.Pure lead balls weighed 484gr. and in WW metal, they went 466gr.
: The problem with antique rifles in bore sizes, is that few Engish mftr's used proper twists. Rapid twist rates and slugs (minnie-type balls) were in vogue in the mid 1800's, according to Forsyth, and many had twists as rapid as 36", which is way to fast for a 12 bore rifle for round balls. The problem comes from shooting poorly with sufficient powder to obtain a flat trajectory.
: With 6 drams, my point blank sight was zero'd at 100meters, and only about 1 1/2" high at 60yds. The velocity was 1,550fps with that load.
: Off the bench, it continualy gave 1-1/2", 5 shot groups with paper ctg. loads with .686" WW balls, as well as, .020" thick denimpatches and .684" pure lead balls. The paper ctgs. were used for a fast second shot when hunting, shot to the sights, and gave the same accuracy as patched balls. Their only downfall, is only 10 could be shot in a row, when a shooting a cleaning shot with patched ball and 3 drams of powder was used to effectively clean the barrel. A paper ctg. could be loaded and capped, ready to fire at 8 seconds per shot.
: The styling is straight English - the very best for a hunting rifle there is. It points like a good shotgun, a bit muzzle heavy, of course, but the sights come up exactly on whatever you are looking at. The 1/8" dia. bead front sight is no more than 1/8" off the barrel to the bead's centre. This gives a flat trajectory, and more powder barely raises the ball at all, merely extending it's point blank range as Forsyth said it would.
: I'll be building another, but it will have a 95" to a 120" twist with rifling no more than .008" deep. This will allow heavy hunting loads with hard lead balls and cloth patches, something that cannot be obtained with faster, deeper twists due to the mechanics of moving hard lead into the grooves. Faster twists require a tighter fitting load to seal, something difficult with hard lead. The patch cannot take the pressure of heavy loads, which is actually very low compared to .54 and .50 cal rifles.
: In testing, 267gr. gave 1,700fps, but kicked too much for any benefit it might give.
: TINKER- thanks for showing the Pinfires. Forsyth spoke quite highly of them, but did indicate low powder capacities for these "Lefaucheau Principal" guns. They came into their own, however, with explosive shells for tiger and buffalo.
: I made a slug mould for my rifle, 580 to 1,200gr. (adjustable) but the trajectory and recoil were prohibitive. Since, as Samual Baker said a hardened ball will exit an elephant's head, and I know they will a broadside moose, I see no reason to handicap myself with a slug. the bal is already expanded, and penetrates just fine.
: I have a friend up here, who has a .75 rifle made by my bro, similar to mine, who had to drop his load to 120gr. 2F to keep a round ball inside a moose. This took a few seasons, as he started at 200gr. and dropped 20 gr. per year until he could recover the balls. He used .735 balls, weighing 545gr. & .030" denim patch. It had grooves WAY too deep for such a large bore.
: 3 of us (2 Englishmen and myself)made a 5 shot group at 50yds with Keith's .75 rifle with a mere 100gr. 2F, (2 fired 2 shots) and with the 5 shots, made a 1-1/2" group, offhand. These were modern rifle shooters, but fellows who practise.


--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V

Edited by Daryl_S (21/11/05 11:14 AM)


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DarylSModerator
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: DoubleD]
      #42044 - 21/11/05 11:38 AM

Ed Rayl makes 'bore' barrels with up to 95" twists and the proper shallow rifling. I am getting aline on another US maker who will cut any size, any twist desired. I'l psot it when I can.
: A good place to ask is the www.americanlongrifles.com forum. Most of the very best riflesmiths in North America frequent the forum.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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tinker
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: DarylS]
      #42069 - 21/11/05 04:35 PM

Hey Daryl, thanks for the notes.

The rifles I pictured in my last post there are both early 1860's *more modern* patent actions with fairly heavy double lump bites and 'T' shaped bolts. The original Lefaucheux patent action often referenced in comparison to british guns bearing the Jones patent featured only a single bite. What I have are a couple of european guns with action features very much like the Jones system (double bite, screw action, underlever), but with the lever pointing forward instead of back under the trigger guard, and with rather stout engagement with the solidly-hinged forend.

This is a bit of detail of the shorter, lighter of the two, the photo was to show the sights, but you'll get the idea.




Here's the bolt and scalloped action 'flats' Note the strong present case colors. This gun was a rack queen for over a hundred years!


Here you can see two more lugs which engage in the locking features of the forend. The lockup on the Mahillon is very similar. Both of these rifles lock up amazingly tight, are very solid, and have yet to have thier actions adjusted.






--Tinker

--------------------
--Self-Appointed Colonel, DRSS--



"It IS a dangerous game, and so named for a reason, and you can't play from the keyboard. " --Some Old Texan...

Edited by CptCurl (17/07/11 09:57 PM)


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DarylSModerator
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: tinker]
      #42095 - 22/11/05 02:01 AM

The photos are GREAT, Tinker. Beautiful. Thanks for the explanation on the guns.
: Were the sights to 150yards only? The short cases with limited capacity would sound about right for 150yards.
: Mine, on the other hand, reflect slightly flatter trajectory. The standing sight lump is 100, first leaf, 150yd and second 200, while the third is 300 meters(328yards)
: Tha that one beautiful rifle, Tinker! You are a very fortunate man to own one, let alone two lovely pieces.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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tinker
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: DarylS]
      #42143 - 22/11/05 01:02 PM

Daryl-

I have yet to shoot over that third rear sight.
I'm working with the modern formed brass sixteen bore hulls to neck them down (just a tad) to take the roundball. As I just got a new mould hoping it'd throw balls that are more round than my 19th century vintage pincher-type mould (it's a lyman -- not perfect, but good enough), the balls from the new mould are a tad bigger in diameter and I want to run them to see what kind of difference that all makes before I commit to dimensions for my dies...
Once all's sorted I'll get those sights sorted too.
The notches are soooo tiny, they're very difficult to use at this point and I really think that they were simply struck with a center notch from which to file down to regulation height.
I'll just see what happens as I get the loading gear together for that nice little light rifle.
Over a hundred yards it's a pretty darn flat shooting rifle though. After a lot of research, questioning, referencing... I settled on a 2-1/2 Dram FFg starting load and I was pleased. I haven't chronographed that gun yet, but from the sound of things I'd guess I'm getting velocities in the fourteen hundreds to fifteen hundreds.
The gun hits hard and quick and the roundball has the sizzling hiss of supersonic frieght train performance.
If I can ever get my chrono to work for me when I'm shooting the bore rifles I'll be in business and will definitely report performance.


These muzzles sing such a sweet tune...




--Tinker

--------------------
--Self-Appointed Colonel, DRSS--



"It IS a dangerous game, and so named for a reason, and you can't play from the keyboard. " --Some Old Texan...

Edited by CptCurl (17/07/11 09:58 PM)


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BillfromOregon
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: tinker]
      #42157 - 22/11/05 04:19 PM

Daryl, Tinker: You've added so much to this thread. Thanks!
Daryl: I absolutely agree about English sporting rifle stock design as being the proper way to make recoil manageable. It stuns me that so few stockmakers seem interested or even aware of the relatively straight stock with generous butt.
By the way, I believe Joe at www.thegunworks.com will cut just about any barrel size and twist. I may turn to his Oregon Barrel Works for a .69 or larger tube.


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tinker
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: BillfromOregon]
      #42187 - 23/11/05 01:16 AM

Bill-

I wish I could add more performance information to what I've shown with my guns. I have seen very little information anywhere on the loading and shooting of the sixteen bore black powder rifle. Seems every time I get out to shoot the bore rifles my chrono gets bitchy. I've thought of getting a screen light for it to ensure that there's consistent light to allow the eyeballs to properly meter.
I need to call the manufacturer too to make sure I have exhausted all possible field troubleshooting protocols as well. You'd think that a projectile larger than 5/8" diameter would easily trip a chronograph...

All in time.

Both my guns have straight grip, fairly straight layout stocks as well. Recoil doesn't seem to me to be an issue.
And for what it's worth, I really like the straight grip for these guns.


--Tinker

--------------------
--Self-Appointed Colonel, DRSS--



"It IS a dangerous game, and so named for a reason, and you can't play from the keyboard. " --Some Old Texan...


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DarylSModerator
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: BillfromOregon]
      #42204 - 23/11/05 05:56 AM

Bill - thanks for the barrel makers address. I find great pleasure in sharing what has worked for me, hoping this experimentation will advance other's enjoyment in the sport.
: Tinker-- it is possible you are getting in the relm of 1,100fps to 1,200fps due to no gas leakage at the breech, being a ctg. gun compared to a muzzleloading rifle. 2 1/2 drams is pretty light to expect more. I will be interested in hearing your actual chronographed results. With double guns, the thickness of the barrels towards the breech, adds considerably to the elevation given the ball. The thicker the barrels, the higher the elevation given. Of course, you are compelled to use a load that will regulate the barrels as well. It is possible, Swiss powder will be the best for that. In intermediate target will show actual elevation. By that, I mean, have a load zero'd at 100yds. Then with that sight picture, shoot at 50 yds and note the elevation given the ball. The higher the sights are above the barrel, the shorter the actual point blank range, and more powder merely gives greater elevation, without extending the point blank range. With low sights, more powder merely makes the ball fly further, without adding more than 1/2" or so to the elevation.
: The lock on my smokepole is a good one, with a buggy spring-type main spring. The cap is opened at the front when fired, but remains on the nipple until the cock is pulled back. There is very little escapement tof gas, but some, of course, or the cap wouldn't be opened up at the front edge.
: This statement pertains mostly to muzzleloading rifles. It is a wonderful thing, to have 100yd or further point blank range with a large bore rifle. The ball, in it's trajectory, travelling no more than 1 1/2" above, nor below the line of sight to that range. Low sights and a 14 or 16 bore rifle will deliver this, if sighted properly, and having the proper depth and twist of rifling.
: Fellows I shoot with, & have tried my .684 RB's in their 12 bore choked guns, and have loaded thin cloth patched round balls in their shotshell cases. This may work with yours as well, Tinker, if the ball is slighty undersize to the groove. Even from a smoothbore duck gun, they were getting 5" accuracy at 50 yds. rest shooting, elbows on the truck hood and single bead front sight.(with smokeless powder)
: I have used the cup base from retrieved trap wads(at the range). When the top piece is cut off it leaves a cup of plastic with flat base. I seated 1 or more as needed card wads on the black powder charge, then a plastic cup on the wads, cup upwards, The cup held the ball in the middle, and I merely crimped the hull over the ball. This load system shot about the same as their patched balls, but of course, if patched balls with LeHigh Valley lube or some other BP lube, keeps the barrel's fouling soft and easily removed. My 12 bore BP loads without a cleaning patch, left the fouling hard and caking. The cloth patch on a slightly undersized ball turned out to be a good move in regards to clean shooting. It might be worth a try.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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tinker
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: DarylS]
      #42224 - 23/11/05 01:14 PM

Daryl-

Lots of good info there.

The way I load my cartridges is such:
RWS percussion cap under the firing pin, tiny little dab of crazy glue on the firing pin at the rim, I throw the BP over that assembly then press a cupwad made from milk carton material in my special little bench made die set pushing the powder firmly with the sixteen bore rammer -- then I take specially made donut shaped quarter inch thick saddle felt wads soaked through with Wonder Lube paste, add a little more wonder lube in the hole in the middle of the wad, then press the roundball on top of the donut shaped wad.
From there I load them and fire them.

I make the saddle felt wads in the shape of a donut so as to have the pressure head against the powder and cup wad *expand* the outside diameter of the felt wad against the bore of the barrels. The roundball acts as a wedge, opening the ring of lubed felt. I find that with this arrangement the powder fouling is soft and I don't need to clean between shots.
I've tried it without the wonder lube and the results are like what you describe, hard caked powder residue.


I don't know if I'll be able to get the rifle out to shoot before the new year, I have a lot of work and some travel coming up (I'm in the middle of it!)
Once I get the rifle out again, I'll get the chrono out and see if I can get some MV times to post.


--Tinker

--------------------
--Self-Appointed Colonel, DRSS--



"It IS a dangerous game, and so named for a reason, and you can't play from the keyboard. " --Some Old Texan...


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Re: Building a big bore [Re: tinker]
      #42267 - 24/11/05 02:40 AM

Tinker - sounds like the perfect wad set-up. The way the wad is forced out onto the barrel is an excellent idea.
: If you want to try a home made lube that I've found to work incredible with ctg. guns and ML's with slugs, it's the 60/40 beeswax, vaseline. I got the formula from Paul Mathews books and it works splendidly. You can vary the beeswax or vaseline up or down, depending on how hard you want it. 60/40 makes for an easy lube to use by hand.
: Another one is 3 ouces Beeswax, 6 ounces Castor Oil and 2 ouces Murphy' oil Soap. Melt the wax and add the Castor oil, then when hot, add the Murphy's and whip the combinaton into a lather, pour into containers and let cool. Again, the amount of wax can be reduced to soften the lube. The above will make a relatively hard lube. The murphy's is necessary as it combines the wax and castor which won't blend without out. It's a good lube, and may make a good water proofer for boots as well.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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BillfromOregon
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: DarylS]
      #42270 - 24/11/05 03:37 AM

Tinker: Agree with Daryl about the wad setup. Make a lot of sense. As to lubes, I have had good luck with another of Paul M.'s formulas: 2 parts beeswax to 1 part neetsfoot oil and 1 part Murphy's Oil Soap.

Daryl: Have you considered building a round ball gun larger than .72-.75? I think it is the Colorado gunmaker Jim Gefroh who has dome some serious hunting in Africa with 8-bore flinters. I don't think I would want to go any larger than that, but in my dreams, I would love to hunt Cape buff with a round ball gun someday, and I think a 12- or 10-bore, well built, would do the work. Obviously a 14-bore like yours is more than up to folding elk, moose, caribou and probably most of the African plains game.


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tinker
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: BillfromOregon]
      #42284 - 24/11/05 10:46 AM

Thanks for the comments on the wads.

I had been thinking of what to do with wadding in these cases. With today's BP being -not so much- as hot as that found in the nineteenth century, I wanted to maximize powder room. Also as I had a mould that threw .666" pure lead balls *which were undersize a tad for the gun I was working with* I wanted a good gas seal for consistent pressures/velocities.

I'd had a talk with Lewis Drake about shooting the sixteen bore rifle and he gave me good advice:
Get a good seal.

I'd gotten lots of advice from others to use felt wads, I'd always figured that the pressure of combustion would wrap the wad around the ball -decreasing the outside diameter- of the wad. The donut shape solution followed the day I was packing up for my friend's ranch and a shooting session.
Picking through a drawer of punches I saw a small one and the idea hit me to take advantage of the shape of the roundball as a wedge to maximize bore contact.

Really it works great.

If I get a moment this weekend I'm gonna ditch the house and head out to the ranch for some bore rifle shooting.
I'll post something if I get chrono readings.

Tell me more about that wad lube.
What's cleanup like after a shooting session?
The WonderLube is pretty amazing stuff, I don't get any rust or corrosion of any kind from the powder residue, which stays soft.
You guys ever use that stuff? It's yellow and smells of Camphor.
How would you compare your recipe to WonderLube, besides being available whenever you want it, and much cheaper than commercial wad lube?



--Tinker





--------------------
--Self-Appointed Colonel, DRSS--



"It IS a dangerous game, and so named for a reason, and you can't play from the keyboard. " --Some Old Texan...


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DarylSModerator
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: tinker]
      #42329 - 25/11/05 10:03 AM

In ctg. loads, I find the Beeswax/Vas to be every bit as good as any comerical lube I've tried.
: OxYoke sells Borebutter, another great one, in stick form as well as the ones Lyman sells.
: Soaking fibre (donacona) wads in lube realy helps, but there has to be something to separate them from the powder.
: Rubbing lube around the perifery works too.
: As well, if using the bast cup off shotshells, the plastic also has to be separated from the powder. BP melts it to the bore. They are a very good way of holding a ball inside the bore, though.
: I like the idea of the hollow wad, to obturate to the bore, but still like a hard card on the powder.
: With a good lube, and enough of it, cleanup of the bore should be done with a couple cloth patches. I used the one patch, shiny bore as an indication of a good lube with ctgs. I don't see why it wouldn't work that way with the bore rifle.
; If the bore doens't clean almost all for the fouling out with one patch through it, the lube didn't do the job. Beeswax/Vas works for me, as does SPG and BoreButter by OxYoke.
: I've not used Wonderlube (white stuff) for many years so cannot coment on it specifically.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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Re: Building a big bore [Re: BillfromOregon]
      #42331 - 25/11/05 10:17 AM

Bill- I've not had the desire to build one that big. The 14 bore did everything I need in a rifle and more. My buddies .75 is a bit of a chore to shoot, having deep round bottomed grooves, is difficult to shoot cleanly. It will go some 20 rounds before wiping seems to be necessary, or a squib load of 70gr. or 80gr. with spit lubed patch can be fired, which does the same job.
: With proper shallow, 100' rilfing twist, patched balls can be shot in the 14 bore cast of straight WW quite easily. My ctg. worked with them, but not patches with greater than 100gr. 2F. the thicker patches required for heavier loads, wouldn't permit using harder balls. Shallower, slower rifling would have.
: S.Baker once wrote in the F&H of Ceylon, that a 14 bore would go through and through an elephant's head. He was probably talking about an Indian Elephant at that, but kinda proves penetration.
: I once disintegrated an old concrete slab 2 1/2" X 8" X 12" long with one shot of a WW ctg. load of 165gr. 2F. The ball expanded to 1" in ida. yet retained 90% weight. the largest piece of that block was 3" across. The block was 80yd form the shooting line. I was impressed.
; The 14 works here, in North America and is somewhat overbore, but it's nice to see an 1,100lb Bull Moose shudder and colapse at the impact. A .54 rifle only gets an immediate, panic stricken run-off without sign of it being hit at all.
: I-too would love to hunt Africa, but would probably opt for a 10 or 12 bore double rifle.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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PAPI
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: BillfromOregon]
      #42448 - 27/11/05 02:35 AM

Hi ,

I'm a newbie to this forum & interested in large Bore Muzzleloader/Firearms . I have a .58 Caliber Kodiak Double Rifle and started thinking of something a little bigger that could handle heavier powder charges.

I found a website of a of a person building "Underhammer Muzzleloaders " in Calibers .45 - 4 Bore at a very reasonable price ( www.underhammers.com ).

I'm playing with the idea of a " .62 Cal " that will shoot balls at low velocity for target shooting and Heavy Conicals ( 500;700;900grn ) for hunting Wild Boar , Deer , Bear , Elk.

L.M.

Edited by PAPI (29/11/05 04:01 PM)


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DarylSModerator
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: PAPI]
      #42565 - 30/11/05 06:36 AM

A .62 calibre needs no slugs. The patched round ball is sufficient for all game you list, including Alaskan & BC moose. To increase the power of a muzzleloading rifle, increase the bore size, not the weight of the slug. A larger bore not only produces mush more dramatic results on game, but recoils less than the same weight slug from a smaller bore.
: A .715" ball weighs 545gr. and is sufficient for Tiger, Water Buffalo and Indian Elephant, not to mention most African game.
: There is a fellow on the www.americanlongrifles.com who has the underhammer rifles you speak of, right up to .73 calibre. You could go there and ask him.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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PAPI
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: DarylS]
      #42575 - 30/11/05 08:13 AM

Hi,

Thanks for the info !

I haven't ordered anything yet. Just researching all of my options before putting out the $$$, for another toy !

If everything works out , I just might end up hunting & living in Alaska ( :

L.M.

Edited by PAPI (30/11/05 08:14 AM)


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BlainSmipy
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: PAPI]
      #42665 - 01/12/05 08:17 AM

See my post, I just got the 12 bore Kodiak, waiting for the weekend to shoot it. You might try reading the Chuck Hawks web site on his 12 bore kodiak experence at www.chuckhawks.com

Jason

PS: Not sure I believe everything he says though.

--------------------
You horde gold, I horde lead.


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BlainSmipy
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: DarylS]
      #42666 - 01/12/05 08:19 AM

have you ever figured out what the knock down power of your 12 bore is? What sort of FPE are you getting with the round ball?

Thanks,
Jason

--------------------
You horde gold, I horde lead.


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BlainSmipy
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: BillfromOregon]
      #42669 - 01/12/05 08:30 AM

What kind of ballistics were you getting with the monster slugs?

Were can I get some to try? Can the Kodiak take the load/pressure/recoil?

Thanks,
Jason

--------------------
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DarylSModerator
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: BlainSmipy]
      #42718 - 02/12/05 04:01 AM

FPE really means nothing in killing power of round balls - and most everything else for that matter. for example:
: I have witnessed a .54 round ball, started at (for it) a measley 1,600 to 1,700fps, only 100 gr. Pyrodex, kill a big bull moose at a lazered 170 yards. Impact fpe might have been in the 270 to 300 range. The ball broke a rib going in, first lung, centred the heart, off lung, and was under the hide of the off side. The moose bolted at the shot wihtout sign of being hit, but dropped within 40 yards of where it was standing when shot.
: Those who like big numbers, like to think it takes 1,500fpe impact energy to kill a moose, and 1,000 for deer. The above noted 235gr. ball had neither and perhaps a 1/3 of what is supposed to be needed for deer. This should show how much faith should be put in numbers which reward high velocity only, but tell nothing of what a particular projectile is capable of.
: My close friend and hunting buddy, with his "Purdey styled" .75 rifle, had to drop his hunting load from 200gr. all the way down to 120gr. of 2F, just to keep a .735" round ball inside a moose. For the first 4 years he used it, he couldn't keep a ball inside. He merely wanted to recover the balls as records of his moose, something he does with his modern rifles. Bull moose here run in the 900 to 1,300lb. range, with the odd giant of 1,500lbs., considerably larger than the Shiras moose, common in some areas.
: I prefer to have a large round ball travelling 1,500 to 1,500fps to obtain a reasonably flat point blank range to 1000yds. where the ball is not more than 1 1/2" above nor below the line of sight. A 14 bore, with .684" ball of 484gr., will give such a point blank range to 120yds with 165gr. 2F GOEX BP. To have that flat trajectory with a large ball, is a wonderful thing. Having the ball within 1 1/2" of the Line of sight to 120yds. makes pin point accuracy a normal & easily aquired result. With the large bore, accuracy merely improves, the more powder used and the trajectory becomes flatter, rather than giving any expra elevation to the ball. The sights must be low, on the barrel for this longer range Point blank sight to work properly. High sights merely add elevation to the ball with more powder, destroying it's point blank range. Light loads and attendent low velocity also destroy the point blank range, due to required high elevation at say, 50yd. to hit the mark at 100.
: When a 14 bore or larger ball strikes a large game animal like a Moose or Elk, the animal shudders and collapses at the impact. A smaller bore, like a .54, while effective for the same North American game, fails to show hits like this. The animal merely makes a frightened dash. The moose story at the top of this post had the guide thinking the hunter had missed and wanted to get the dogs to track it, yet it lay 40 yds. from where it was standing when shot, just out of sight of the hunters.
: I firmly don't believe in FPE and really feel there is no mathematical formula which describes what a properly placed bullet of ball will do.
: ACCURCY is what is desired, with "Enough Power". The bore rifles have that in spades.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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Re: Building a big bore [Re: tinker]
      #42719 - 02/12/05 04:12 AM

Tinker - my own .14 bore, .684" pure lead ball of 484gr. with 6 drams (165gr.) ran an average of 1,550fps. With the point blank sight low, and the front bead down on the barrel, this gave me a point blank range of 120yds. with a 100yd zero. I had to go way over 200gr. of powder to achieve 1,700fps. so I settled on 165gr 2F (6 drams) as being an accurate, full charge hunting load.
: Impacts at 100yds on Moose, were a sight to see. The moose shuddering on impact, and collapsing inwards, it seemed. "Taking his wind out" was one of Forsyth's phrases. This happend time and time again. I surely do love the 14 bore. Forsyth was spot-on in his recommending this gauge as an all-round bore size for large game. It is accurate, has resonable recoil for a large game rifle and is very effective on the game.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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BlainSmipy
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: DarylS]
      #42759 - 02/12/05 11:21 AM

Were in BC are you hunting with all these moose around?

Colorado

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You horde gold, I horde lead.


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PAPI
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: BlainSmipy]
      #43956 - 14/12/05 10:26 AM

FYI:

Blackpowder Muzzleloader 8 Bore for sale:
(www.auctionarms.com)

L.M.


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BlainSmipy
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: BillfromOregon]
      #44325 - 18/12/05 11:03 AM

Bill, Daryle

I am seriously looking at building an 8 bore single barrel as my first scratch build. I see Oregon Barrels will build you a 8 bore barrel in any twist for $350 bucks. You can get a English Sporting Stock with pistol grip pre-shaped from Long Rifle Supply fiarly cheap. You can get everything from them to build this rifle in 8 bore as a matter of fact. What a hoot it would be to build and shoot it. I probably start on it in the next month or after the year end bonus kicks in. I think I'd go with a 1-70 or so twist and a shallow groove for hard balls.

Colorado

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DarylSModerator
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: BillfromOregon]
      #49561 - 09/02/06 06:55 AM

I am now experimenting with patch lubes, and aside from LehighValley lube, which works perfectly in my .45 Flinter and bro's .60 Jaeger rifle, we've found a couple with good results. A 50/50 mix of Murphy's oil Soap and Castor oil works as well as LehighValley lub ein my rifle and my bro's. Another, with Windshield washer antifreezxe, Murphy's and Olive oil, mixed 1:2:2 works well too and is my bro's favourite due to the relatively high cost of Castor oil up here.
: For me, the ultimate lube must allow shooting all day without having to wipe the bore, and must remain pliable down to -20F, -40 would be even better. The very cold temps are an 'extra' for the 'ultimate' lube. Shooting all day long are normal requirements, which are met with the above lubes.
: A very good friend of mine has a "Purdey" style single barreled rifle in .75 cal with a deep grooved custom barrel. Unfortunately, our barrels are rather fast twists and require very snug patching to keep the powder gasses behind the ball. Being able to use the very same patch for a 5 shot group shows no gas cutting or blow-by in my .69.
: With the deep groove barrel on my firend's rifle, his patches burn a bit, although giving good accuracy.
: The .75 worked splendidly on Moose, with 200gr. charges, and .735" balls exiting and from about any angle. It is a "Devil Stomper" in it's own right. He's tested to 250gr.2G and even his 200gr. charge kicks to much for this lad. The .69, with up to 6 drams (and more) is quite manageable and shoots into 1-1/2" at 100yds for 5 shot groups off the bags. This barrel's 66" twist and .012" depth rifling required a .684" ball with .022" denim patch to withstand the twist and velocity. Accuracy was relatively unchanged from about 120gr. to 200gr., giving from 1,350fps to 1,700fps. a 'sqib' load of 3 drams(82gr.)of 3F actually gave 1,225fps. and could use .015" patching.
: The word "Folding" applied to large game shot with these very powerful round ball rifles, is quite correct.
: If going after Cape Buffalo, I-too would reach for a double 10 bore, but an 11 bore would suffice- HA!
: A close friend has an original 6 bore ball and shot gun, that weighs some 13 lbs. with 34" tubes. It has an elevator block rear sight with centre silver line, for a point blank sight for ball, which is quite intriguing.
: He's shot trap with it using 2 1/2oz. 7-1/2's Good display and surprisingly good patterns from it's non-choked bores.
: Large bore round ball rifles are intriguing, for sure.
: I live in the physical centre of British Columbia. Lot's of moose here.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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BlainSmipy
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: BlainSmipy]
      #49581 - 09/02/06 11:07 AM

I'm still on for building this gun..although the bonus did not happen this year. I did also find all of the necessary parts to build the same 8 bore double gun that October Country used to build, minus the barrels, breech plugs and tang. I did find the locks, stock, triggers, guard, butt plate, etc. Bill Moody build the barrels and I have not been able to get his number anywhere. Any body have this?

Colorado

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DarylSModerator
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: BlainSmipy]
      #49780 - 12/02/06 06:51 AM

Sorry- no number for Bil Moody. I just finished talking to Joe, an Oregon barrel maker, who will make me whtever twist I want, and whatever depth desired.
; As his cutter is rounded, I expect a 13 or 14 bore barrel with .005 or .006" deep rounded rilfing, at 112" on a 28" barrel should answer well for the barrel. 1- 1/4" breech, tapered to 1-1/8" muzzle and 9 rto 9 1/2lbs weight will be perfect.
: www.trackofthewolf.com has all the other parts necesary, from a good English-style Davis lock with proper hammer, to English breech plug, rib, stock wood, ramrod pipes - all the necessary parts. The large non-inlet English Fowler blank should work just fine.
; Track also has 2 sets of plans. The Egnoish Rifle pans, and the Purdey plans. Believe me when I say the Purdey has a rather thin wrist. The picture doesn't show it, but it is very narrow, side to side, in comparrison. A heavy gun should be made slightly heavier than a deer rifle.
: The rifle pitured below, was made from the Engish Rifle plans and is a 14 bore rifle with 30" bl. The wood is from a California english/claro blank. The rear sight is a single standing point blank sight with 3 hinged leafs. The front sight is a 1/16" bead tapered bronze rod soldered to an iron base. The point blank sights are low to the barrel, giving a point blank range of 120yards, where the ball is only up to 1-1/2" above or below the line of sight. It is a very flat shooting rifle & perhaps the ultimate for hunting in N.America and in India. It's effective range on animals as large as moose or elk, would easily be 200yard plus, if charged accordingly, however if one is a good hunter, shots past 100 yards are not necessary. It is better learn to hunt well, than to have to track a wounded animal. Animals shot with these large bores, seldom,if ever, have to be tracked.
:

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V

Edited by CptCurl (17/07/11 10:00 PM)


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Dphariss
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: BillfromOregon]
      #68861 - 05/01/07 06:58 PM

Quote:

Anyone built a big-bore BP rifle, single-shot, percussion in say, 10-,12- or 14-bore? I have a hankering to build a rifle Samuel Baker would be happy to hunt with. Looking for thoughts on twist, barrel thickness, stock and lock supplier, bore dimensions, etc. for a conical shooter.




I would avoid conicals. Look into the writings of the ML era and you will find they did not work so well. Velocity will be low and recoil high to extreme. A 12 bore conical is going to weigh at last 2 to 2.5 ounces. Based on what I have read from Samuel Baker and others killing power will be less than a round ball of the same caliber unless the conical is very close the the round balls weight.
If you can find a copy of "Pondoro" By John Taylor in it he details the killing of 8 Rhino and 13 "good bulls" Elephant with a 10 bore smoothbore shooting 6 drams of BP and hardened balls. This a gun he borrowed when his shipment of ammunition did not arrive on time.
Forsythe in "The Sporting Rifle and Its Projectiles" written in the 1850s, details the disadvantages of the conical as a hunting projectile based on his experience living and hunting extensively in India. He stated that with 5 drams of powder his short barreled (26" IIRC) rifle using a hardened 15 to the pound ball would shoot through an Indian Elephant's head from side to side. His only use of conicals was with a bursting charge that he designed to explode inside the animal.

I just received an Ed Rayl barrel 30" long, .675" bore (takes a 16 to the pound ball) 95" twist wide grooves .008" deep.
I figure its about all the recoil my neck will stand at 1600 fps.
Making a late English style, recessed breech flintlock rifle. Either Manton style or a Henry Tatham Indian trade rifle.
You might try Ed for a barrel. I don't have his address handy right now. Its in the back of the Rifle Shoppe's Catalog.
Dan


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BillfromOregon
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: Dphariss]
      #68976 - 07/01/07 03:19 AM

Dan: I recently ordered a .69 1:100 twist barrel from Joe at Oregon Barrel Works. It will be a round ball rifle. For heavy conical shooting, it is hard to beat the Pedersoli Kodiak .72 double.
Please do post when you complete your English sporting rifle.
Bill
P.S. Appreciate all your writing over the years.


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szihn
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: BillfromOregon]
      #81220 - 24/06/07 12:10 PM

Howdy gentlemen.

My name is Steve Zihn
I make muzzleloaders to earn my living. I am new here. Just joined today.
If any of you'd like to chat about building, please let me know. I like to share ideas with like minded folks, and I would be happy to advise and help in any way I can.
To see some of my work, go to photobucket.com and type szihn in the search box.
I hope to make some new friends here.

happy hunting
Steve


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Dphariss
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: BillfromOregon]
      #81986 - 07/07/07 04:56 PM

The 16 bore is in the white and shooting though I haven't got it shooting as well as I want. Found an unexpected hoop day before yesterday and jumped through it or so it seems and now its showing promise. I need to put a tang sight on the thing or get one of those aperture thingys for my eyeglasses.
Unless the light is bright the sights get too fuzzy to shoot.

With the Nock breech it makes about 1750FPS average with 140gr weighed of FFG Swiss. This will really make a 3+- gal plastic jug of water "splash". Just had to try this. Wife gets cat litter in the jugs.
With 110 from my volume measure it makes about 1640 fps. This is about as low as I want to go for flat trajectory.
The 140 grain load makes pretty heavy recoil, for Dan anyway, in a 10 pound rifle. But the buttstock design is good and it does not mark the shoulder at all though 20 rounds or so will make one a little sore. The 110 gr load is much nicer.
Will do an update when I get it colored, but that may not be for a few months depending on circumstances. Why I am shooting it white for now. Time crunch.

Dan


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DarylSModerator
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: Dphariss]
      #82012 - 08/07/07 04:08 AM

Glad to hear the 16 bore is ready to finish, Dan. That 140gr. charge is really a good one. Obviously, Swiss is a much more efficient powder than the GOEX that we are able to get here.
: Have you tired express-type sights? I find the shallow "V" with a front bead to be much better than a narrow slot and post or blade front sight.
: One of Track's Jaeger sights with one flip-up blade, re-shaped properly, would make an excellent sight for an English big bore. I do like the bead, especially for hunting. I also find it suitable for a target ML as well. This is how I finally made the sights for my .40 flinter, after some shooting with narrow "V" and blade. The rear sight was just too fuzzy to see, while the shallow "V" is much better observed.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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Dphariss
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: BlainSmipy]
      #86450 - 02/10/07 06:13 AM

Quote:

have you ever figured out what the knock down power of your 12 bore is? What sort of FPE are you getting with the round ball?

Thanks,
Jason




A 16 bore will make 2650-3000 at the muzzle with 110-140 gr of FFG Swiss. But as Daryl posted its just a number. With BP and large diameter balls its really meaningless.
They will kill large animals very well to ranges of 150 yards or more though the energy level is far under what the "moderns" with their little copper jacketed slugs think is needed.
The 50-54 cal rb will shoot through and cleanly kill deer with broadside shots at retained energy levels most modern hunters would scoff at as useless.
The modern small bore copper jacketed bullet, especailly teh spitzer type, must expand to produce a 50-75 caliber wound channel. The round balls of 50-75 caliber need not expand to produce a big hole.
If the spitzer does not expand it make a very tiny wound channel that will not kill quickly inless it strikes the heart or a major artery. Expansion requires high impact velocities/energies.

Dan


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szihn
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: BillfromOregon]
      #86473 - 02/10/07 02:31 PM

Well, how about a nice 8 bore?






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degoins
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: szihn]
      #86487 - 02/10/07 09:30 PM

Steve,
why must you tempt me so?


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szihn
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: degoins]
      #86489 - 02/10/07 10:36 PM

Because it's FUN!

You need it! You want it! You lust for it!
But wait.......there's more (this offer is not available in any store)
If you order now we'll thrown in absolutely free a brand new kitchen twaddler!!!!!!!!!!!!!
as a "surprise gift"

(All the foregoing in a TV type theatrical voice)
HAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHA


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degoins
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: szihn]
      #86495 - 03/10/07 01:48 AM

You are an evil man!!!

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szihn
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: degoins]
      #86550 - 04/10/07 12:48 AM

Me..........?
Naw.......!
Well, .......... not very much anyway.


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mehulkamdar
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: degoins]
      #86567 - 04/10/07 03:55 AM

Degoins,

You're not the only one lusting for Steve's masterpieces here. Yes, the man is evil - he promises big bore muzzleloading bliss. COntact him and you will find a good friend always ready to give very helpful advice and tips. Which, in turn, would get you hooked even more...

Give up, you can't escape.

--------------------
The Ark was made by amateurs. Experts built the Titanic.

Mehul Kamdar


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degoins
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: mehulkamdar]
      #86569 - 04/10/07 04:22 AM

Yes, I'm afraid I'm doomed!!!

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Tatume
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: degoins]
      #86577 - 04/10/07 06:13 AM

I'd like to see this discussion on lubes continue. Who else has a favorite lube for patches and over-powder wads? Personally, I use and like T/C 1000+ Bore Butter, but would like to switch to a home brew, just for the fun of it. Take care, Tom

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Tatume
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: DarylS]
      #86579 - 04/10/07 06:53 AM

Quote:

To have that flat trajectory with a large ball, is a wonderful thing. Having the ball within 1 1/2" of the Line of sight to 120yds. makes pin point accuracy a normal & easily aquired result. With the large bore, accuracy merely improves, the more powder used and the trajectory becomes flatter, rather than giving any expra elevation to the ball. The sights must be low, on the barrel for this longer range Point blank sight to work properly. High sights merely add elevation to the ball with more powder, destroying it's point blank range.




This piqued my interest, so I looked at point-blank ranges over different sight heights, using the Sierra "Infinity" software. I've compared this software to several others, and they agree very well.

Using one bullet and velocity, I checked maximum point-blank range for several different heights of sights above bore, in particular 1.0, 1.5, 2.0, and 3.0 inches. I used +/- 1.5 inches as the trajectory criterion for calculating point-blank range. The range at which a bullet will be neither more nor less than 1.5" from line of sight increases as height of sights above bore centerline increases. That is, tall sights improve point-blank range. The software ignores the short period from muzzle exit until the trajectory approaches the line of sight.

Take care, Tom


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Tatume
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: Tatume]
      #86580 - 04/10/07 07:01 AM

Hello Folks,

It wasn't until I read my own post that I realized I was less than clear when I said "The range at which a bullet will be neither more nor less than 1.5" from line of sight." I meant, not more than 1.5 inches above or below the line of sight. Sorry.

Take care, Tom


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mehulkamdar
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: Tatume]
      #86609 - 04/10/07 05:41 PM

Tatume,

With my cheap but very accurate Knight inline, I used a water based industrial grease until a very experienced friend told me about the long term problems with what I was doing, and I stopped. The rifle still shoots nicely so I must have stopped before any long term damage was done. That said, a very good friend of mine who shoots vastly more than I do, uses grease in all of his muzzleloaders - both traditional as well as inlines and does not seem to have any problems.

Good hunting!

--------------------
The Ark was made by amateurs. Experts built the Titanic.

Mehul Kamdar


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Tatume
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: mehulkamdar]
      #86618 - 04/10/07 11:59 PM

Mehul,
What are the long-term problems with water-based greases? What specific grease were you using?
Take care, Tom


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JohnTheGreek
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: Tatume]
      #86630 - 05/10/07 08:34 AM

Patch Lube...and lots cheaper than the pre-fab stuff. The below is the "Moose Snot" recipe from over on www.muzzleloadingforum.com. I use more beeswax...50/50 with olive oil actually and then add the Murphys an ounce at a time until it looks right.

A mixture of Beeswax, Olive oil and Murphys oil soap with the ingredients added in that order.

Beeswax 2 oz.
Olive Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.

Heat the beeswax in a coffee can submerged in an inch of water at the bottom of a bigger pat or pot (double boiler). Add olive oil when the wax is melted. Stir. Add Murphys and stir rapidly. Lift the can with vise grip pliers and pour into waiting tins. You should obviously increase the ratio of oils to wax for colder climates.

Pipe tobbaco tins work very well for storage and seal well enough that the moisture won't evaporate over time. BTW, this mixture also is a pretty good shoe polish or moustache wax for those of us who sport the big mediterranean handlebars.

Best,

John


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mehulkamdar
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: Tatume]
      #86708 - 07/10/07 01:43 AM

Tom,

I was told that they tend to varnish the bores. The grease that I used was the regular stuff available at Ace and other hardware stores.

JTG,

Thanks for the recipe. I shall definitely try it out. Saving money on this means shooting more - maximising efficiency and fun.

Good hunting everyone!

--------------------
The Ark was made by amateurs. Experts built the Titanic.

Mehul Kamdar


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DarylSModerator
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: Tatume]
      #86713 - 07/10/07 02:16 AM

Quote:

Quote:

To have that flat trajectory with a large ball, is a wonderful thing. Having the ball within 1 1/2" of the Line of sight to 120yds. makes pin point accuracy a normal & easily aquired result. With the large bore, accuracy merely improves, the more powder used and the trajectory becomes flatter, rather than giving any expra elevation to the ball. The sights must be low, on the barrel for this longer range Point blank sight to work properly. High sights merely add elevation to the ball with more powder, destroying it's point blank range.




This piqued my interest, so I looked at point-blank ranges over different sight heights, using the Sierra "Infinity" software. I've compared this software to several others, and they agree very well.

Using one bullet and velocity, I checked maximum point-blank range for several different heights of sights above bore, in particular 1.0, 1.5, 2.0, and 3.0 inches. I used +/- 1.5 inches as the trajectory criterion for calculating point-blank range. The range at which a bullet will be neither more nor less than 1.5" from line of sight increases as height of sights above bore centerline increases. That is, tall sights improve point-blank range. The software ignores the short period from muzzle exit until the trajectory approaches the line of sight.

Take care, Tom




; Point blank range and how it's achieved, is interesting in that it isn't an exact science. By this, I mean ballistic tables don't tell the whole story. With high sights, as you increase the powder charge, you get a corresponding increase in elevation, which destroys the point blank range. The ball, instead of rising only 1 1/2" above the line of sight, increases to 3 or 4 inches as the 'regular powder charge, say 100gr. is increased to 175gr. (in large bores)
: Low sights allow the 'plinking', deer/black bear/boar charge of around 90 to 110gr. to hit within the limit of 1" above or below the line of sight, yet increasing the charge doesn't add to that elevation more than 1/2" of so but the increased velocity gives an extended distance to the point blank range. High sights change point of impact too radically with the increased powder charges for shooting heavy game.
: Of course, having 'express-type' sights gives some leeway. My own rifle, with the point blank sight zero'd at 50 yards with 100gr., then gives a zero at 100 yards with the 165gr. charge, while keeping the mid-range zero within point-blank status. With higher sights, the heavy charge zero would be on the order of 130 yards, but at closer ranges, where the point-blank sighting is most necessary, as in a charging bear, the ball would strike too high to be useful. Military rifles and rifle muskets shooting minnie balls show this 'failing' in spades. With them, to have a 100 yard zero, the ball/bullet must rise over 5", maybe 8" or more above the line of sight, thereby eliminating the point blank sighting. How do you hold 5" to 8" low of where you want the ball/bullet to hit when the bear is bent on running you over and ripping you up and closing at 35 mph? It is best to have sights low, so the ball is close to the line of sight at all ranges - hense the importance of point blank range. You need not know what the range is within normal distance, merely take a fair sight and let go. You know your ball is within lethal impact of the sight.
; With express sights, you can have, as I do, a sighting with deer/b.bear/plink9ing loads, of 50, 100 and 150 yards, while with the heavy big game charges, those very same sights give 100, 150 and 200 yard sighting.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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Tatume
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Reged: 09/06/07
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: DarylS]
      #86742 - 07/10/07 09:41 PM

Mehul,

Quote:

I was told that [water-based greases] tend to varnish the bores.




It is my experience that people will often say something because it sounds like it should be true. Once uttered, the statement is later adamantly defended. But nobody ever tested the hypothesis. Run the test yourself, and decide if it’s true. You may be surprised.

Take care, Tom


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mehulkamdar
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: Tatume]
      #86758 - 08/10/07 05:01 AM

Tom,

You do have an excellent point, and one from more shooting experience than mine, I am certain. As I said in my earlier post, I have a friend who has several muzzleloaders and many of them much more valuable than mine who shoots them with water based grease and he seems to have no problem. I will try this again.

Thanks again and good hunting!

--------------------
The Ark was made by amateurs. Experts built the Titanic.

Mehul Kamdar


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BillfromOregon
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Loc: Sweetwater, by God Texas
Re: Building a big bore [Re: mehulkamdar]
      #185583 - 11/07/11 12:52 AM

Just refreshing this thread as there is so much good stuff in it. I have found a builder for my English sporting rifle and will order another barrel from Joe.
Dan: Any word on how your 16 bore flinter turned out?


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DarylSModerator
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: BillfromOregon]
      #185592 - 11/07/11 01:54 AM

Word of caution on lubes containing Murphy's Oil Soap. Those who use combinations, ball and patch that don't quite seal all the powder gasses behind the ball, can experience a hard brown gunge in the corners of the grooves. My brother used this type of lube for years without any such trouble, in 3 different rifles as well as his Brown Bess. He uses very tight combinations in all guns, no problem.

Glad it's coming together, Bill.

Nowadays, for most of my trail walk and target shooting, I use a mix of winter windshield washer fluid with some neetsfoot oil added. I shake it vigoursly, then pour it on my pre-cut patches, then gently squeeze out the excess. My patches are WET when used, not just damp. They prevent fouling from building up as I never have to wipe the bore while shooting all day - humidity 6% or humidity 100%.

Secret? - none - simply use a ball that is .005" under bore size, and a 10oz. Denim or .020" to .022" mattress ticking patches - wet with lube. Water based, or an oil like Mink oil or Neetsfoot oil. Hoppe's # 9 PLUS works as well as anything for target shooting. The oils are for hunting. Always check the accuracy - oils usually require more powder to get the same accurcy as water based lubes and shoot to a different poi.

Some guys like slightly thinner patches & do OK, but I find the thicker patches shoot more accurately.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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Dphariss
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: BillfromOregon]
      #185610 - 11/07/11 09:11 AM

The 16 bore works well. 1600 fps with 140 gr of ff Swiss.

Dan








Edited by CptCurl (17/07/11 10:02 PM)


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tinker
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: Dphariss]
      #185629 - 11/07/11 03:47 PM

Nice looking rifle Dan!






Cheers
Tinker

--------------------
--Self-Appointed Colonel, DRSS--



"It IS a dangerous game, and so named for a reason, and you can't play from the keyboard. " --Some Old Texan...


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BillfromOregon
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: tinker]
      #185646 - 11/07/11 11:08 PM

Dan: Wow that's a handsome rifle you built! I think it deserves its own thread.

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DarylSModerator
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: BillfromOregon]
      #185650 - 12/07/11 12:27 AM

Yes

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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gunsports
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: DarylS]
      #192979 - 03/11/11 11:35 PM

About lube:

I am a great believer in Ballistol; that German gun oil. Use it straight as a preservative in place of synthetic oils. Mix it 30:70 (Ballistol & water) with water for cleaning your barrel after shooting or for wiping between shots. In a pinch, the cleaning fluid works quite well as a patch lube as well (spit patch with an attitude!) I do not use water for cleaning my guns - ever. Especially hot water flushed through a barrel will seep into the breech threads and cause rust; no matter how much oil you add afterwards.

The lube that I use is a derivative of the old Felix bullet lube, adapted for muzzle guns. As follows:

2 parts neatsfoot oil
1 part castor oil
1 part lanolin
bees wax to taste.

Method: Heat the neatsfoot and castor oil till it just begins to change color. Don't burn, please - it stinks! Reduce temp and add lanolin. Add beeswax to taste (for patch lube, a little; for bullet lube, a little more.) You can test the consistency by dipping a cold knife blade into the mix; the lube will set on the cold metal and you can test consistency.

On some makes of oil (depending on who sells the stuff), you may need to add just a sliver of Murfey's oil soap (sodium stearate) to get the two oils to combine. To test, heat a small volume of the two oils and then let cool. If it combines, you're ok. If it seperates on cooling, add a little soap to the hot mix (it foams!)

This stuff is magic. I use it as a patch lube, a bullet lube, a bore conditioner and preservative. It's kind to wood. I resize my cartridge cases with the stuff. A dab on a wood screw allows it to screw into a tight hole without splitting the wood or siezing. I even add a little over dried release agent just to make doubly sure the bedding job does not stick. Best of all, it contains no petro chemical products so there is no powder contamination.

Last tip. Before loading up for the first time, pour some pure alcohol down the barrel, let it run out of the nipple/vent. Cant the rifle so the stuff does not spill on the wood. Cleans all the oil residue out of the gun and I've never had a miss fire.

--------------------
If it ain't a ball, it ain't a bullet ...


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DarylSModerator
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Re: Building a big bore [Re: gunsports]
      #192993 - 04/11/11 05:08 AM

That's interesting, Gunsports - we don't have to wipe the bore while shooting our muzzleloaders- ever. We use real black powder, GOEX or Swiss as Dan uses. There is no buildup- ever - each load cleans the previous shot so there is no buildup.

As Holland and Holland instructed in a letter to a friend, I use cold water for cleaning, then I dry and flush with WD40. There has never been any rust in the breech threads when I pulled the breeches for inspection - years after use and many thousands of shots and cleanings later. The gun is cleaned at the end of a day's shooting - that is the first time it is wiped all day.

I use Neetsfoot oil (not compound) or Track of the Wolf's "Mink Oil" for hunting lube - again, no need for wiping - ever while shooting.

Slow twists with shallow rifling and large bores can use paper ctgs. effectively for hunting as well. The excess paper bunched between the tight fitting ball and the powder effectively seals the powder gasses behind - no blowby and identical accuracy to a tightly patched round ball. In my .69, that was 1" up to 1 1/2" for 5 shot groups at 100 meters - open 3 leaf express sight with a low Purdey-type front bead.

After 10 shots with paper ctgs. the fouling was building up so a 'squib' load of 85gr. 2f is used, along with a spit lubed, denim patched ball. That load effectively cleans the bore when shot (immediately) and allows another 10 paper cts. to be shot with original accuracy.

The paper ctg. load was the same 165gr. 2F that I used with full power patched round ball loads. It develped 1,550fps with a 484gr. round ball and struck the sme poi as patched ball. The paper ctgs. were a tigth fit in the muzzle and needed the rod choked up on, to start, then went down easily. Loading then shooting & hitting at a 6" disk at 50 yards was accomplished in just 8 seconds, using a paper ctg. load.

I have never tried lubing them, but others have.

That's an intersting sounding lube. My cousin (English) use Lanolin ( I think) by itself as a case lube. I found it too difficult to remove from the brass in comparrison to other lubes I use now, but combined with other products, it might be just fine.

I've not seen the need for special ome made lubes for hunting as the straight Neetsfoot oil or Mink oil have worked fine for me and their accuracy has proven to be exemplary as well. They are also good to the steel and don't hurt the wood.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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