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kuduae
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Reged: 13/01/10
Posts: 1775
Loc: middle of Germany
Early 9.3x62 by W.Foerster, Berlin
      #231334 - 19/06/13 08:45 PM

Some years ago a friend bought a Suhl made Mauser rifle retailed by Wilhelm Foerster, Taubenstr.47, Berlin. It came to him with a short stock fitted with an ugly white line, ventilated recoil pad and a 1960s Hensoldt "Diatal" 4x scope claw mounted on the original bases. As the stock was too short for his tastes I installed the extension and the solid red pad now on the rifle and restored the stock finish.












The CROWN-crown/N proofmarks show it was proofed using the "4000 at proof powder" according to the rule of 1893 for Nitro proof. The proofmarks date it to "about 1912". The bore diameter is already given as "8.9mm", but the service load is still marked as "3.3g G.B.P. / StmG. The half-octagon, ribbed barrel blank was made of Krupp steel by the Schilling forge, Suhl. Foerster's serial number 9753 is stamped under action and barrel.
What makes this rifle really interesting IMHO is the composed action. It shows some fine scroll engraving and traces of case hardening color. As the engraving shows the same "hand", the rifle was assembled this way pre-WW1 in Suhl. Before WW1 everybody wanting to build a Mauser m98 actioned rifle had to buy a commercial action from the Mauser, Oberndorf factory first, as the patents were still valid. According to Jon Speed's books Mauser then sold more than two thirds of their commercial production to other gunmakers as barreled actions or actions only. These actions always have the Mauser commercial serial number stamped under the receiver ring and on the rear wall of the magazine. Obviously the Suhl gunsmithes did not care at all about matching Mauser serial numbers, as this rifle shows. The large ring, standard length receiver is serial number 22064, datable to 1908. The bottom metal shows number 21697, 1908 also. The trigger guard is milled to accept the Mauser factory double set trigger. The Suhl made "aftermarket" ones are of different design, set into a separate housing and powered by a V-spring. The magazine floorplate was made lever detachable in the then Suhl fashion.





The bolt is even more early. it is of the "Transitional" pre-M98 type with narrow gas escape slits, early firing pin without safety lugs and pointed cocking piece. At some time the "Transitional" bolt sleeve (without bolt sleeve lock) was replaced with an unengraved, blued "modern" one with that lock.



Edited by CptCurl (30/12/13 03:21 AM)


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Gen_Hicks
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Reged: 15/10/12
Posts: 136
Loc: Lowveld, South Africa
Re: Early 9.3x62 by W.Foerster, Berlin [Re: kuduae]
      #231351 - 20/06/13 05:12 AM

how do you get the "mauser red" colour on the stock?

Do you use tung oil for your finish?

Mauser Regards

T


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kuduae
.400 member


Reged: 13/01/10
Posts: 1775
Loc: middle of Germany
Re: Early 9.3x62 by W.Foerster, Berlin [Re: Gen_Hicks]
      #231353 - 20/06/13 06:53 AM

Quote:

how do you get the "mauser red" colour on the stock?



Nothing sophisticated. I use raw, cold pressed linseed oil, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linseed_oil , available here in Germany in better supermarkets because it is used as an ingredient in some meals. I dye the oil red using Alkanet root (alcanna tinctoria) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alkanna_tinctoria .Years ago my friendly local pharmacist ordered it for me, but I had to buy a package, a whole kilogram. IIRC it set me back about 25 Deutsche Mark (it is that long ago!) and I am still living with a good supply. The chopped alkanet root came as fairly coarse chips. I grind them into a powder using an old coffee mill. I drop about a tablespoon into a bottle with 250ml = half pint of linseed oil. Shake well and let stand for 2 weeks, shaking again once or twice. The root dyes the oil a deep red and settles on the bottom of the bottle. Decant. Apply liberally to the smooth wood, once a day. The oil at first simply diappears into the wood. After about 4 coats I apply an Oil drying agent from an art supply shop liberally and let dry for a day. Another thin coat of linseed , next day dryer again. Alternate oil and agent day by day for about a week. If accidentially oil builds up above the surface, let dry thoroughly and remove with fine steel wool. As a last step several coats of CCL Gunstock Conditioner give the desired sheen. Just patience and some experience.


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lancaster
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Reged: 06/05/08
Posts: 8734
Loc: There's a lighthouse in the mi...
Re: Early 9.3x62 by W.Foerster, Berlin [Re: kuduae]
      #231390 - 21/06/13 12:48 AM

good work, thats how it have to be

--------------------
Norwegian hunter misses moose, shoots man on toilet
.
bringing civilisation to the barbarians


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