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DarylS
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Re: 8 bore vs 4 bore [Re: empirevr]
      #62467 - 14/09/06 10:03 AM

I already convered some differences between a 12 bore loaded with a solid round ball. There is a bit of difference between pure lead and hardened lead. Balls hardened with antimony, such as using Wheel Weight metal, or a 50/50 mix of pure and WW metal, gives the needed strength to punch thourhg bones, large and small without expanding. I've used hardened 14 bore balls for just such a purpose on shoudler bones of 1,000 pound moose, without damage to the balls and excellent penetration. My good friend, with a .75 cal rifle, had trouble keeping a .735" WW ball inside a moose, until he reduced his load to 4 drams.
: With it's almost same sized balls, the 12 bore has similar results, ie: spectacular.
: The modern 12 bore slug loads, those with 1 and 1-1/4 ounce hollow based slugs, shoot fairly well, but not generally as well as properly loaded round balls. The "pumpkin balls" of yesteryear, gave the same sub-standard accuracy as the common musket did of the 18th century and for identical reasons - very much undersized balls. My own load developement with round balls in the 12 bore showed excellent accuracy, good enough for deer shooting to a full 100 ayrds, and that from a side by side, lefts and rights, hitting the same poi.
: As most of the round ball smoothbores in 8 bore were of short barrels, I'd not push the matter with outsized shot barrels. Therefore, I'd reduce the lengths to a more comfortable 22" or perhps 24". Note that Greener's suggested weights were around 11-1/2 to 12 pounds for an 8 bore shooting round balls.
: Properly measuring the bores will show the size balls needed. I'd keep them as close to bore size as possible, yet sill able to load in brass shotshells for that bore size. Experimentation with cushion, lubricating and card wads, along with perhaps cloth patching the balls will eventually reward the shooter with the required accuracy.
: J Tanner of England can make the requisit mould and they're of excellent quality, as the two I have are.
: A google search will give you his online address along with pictures and instructions for ordering one of his brass or bronze moulds.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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CptCurlAdministrator
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Re: 8 bore vs 4 bore [Re: DarylS]
      #62468 - 14/09/06 10:30 AM

Daryl,

I recall a prior thread in which you discussed your experience with round balls in the 12 gauge shotgun. I seem to remember you seat the ball in a plastic wad with the petals cut off. Would you elaborate on this? I am particularly interested in your technique in a choke bore. Have you ever experienced damage to the choke or any adverse signs? What accuracy results?

I have a nice J.P. Sauer 12 gauge that's choked M&F. I would love to safely shoot round balls through it, but I won't consider doing so if there is danger to the gun or to the shooter.

Thanks,
Curl



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YOUR DOUBLE RIFLE IS YOUR BEST FRIEND.



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DarylS
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Re: 8 bore vs 4 bore [Re: CptCurl]
      #62473 - 14/09/06 11:31 AM

Sure thing Curl.
; I collected spend trap wads at the local trap range, just to curb costs to nil - 'course, gas wasn't as expensive as it is now. I then cut the petals and compression system off with side cutters. This left me with the base cup-wads of plastic.
; For BP loads, it is necessary to isolate the plastic base wad from the powder charge as BP will melt the plastic onto the bore - something you don't want.
: I used slightly smaller than 14 bore balls at .684" diameter. A normal full choke is .690"(14 bore), ie: 40 points (.040") of choke off .730" = .690". A modified choke is about .710" in diameter, IMP mod about .700" etc.
: Now, the reason for the plastic base wads. Due to the cup and bore sized outside diameter(already fired and expanded, they hold the ball in the centre of the bore, regardless of it's size. (Cup up to hold the ball in the centre of the bore)
; In a cylinder bore, you could use a .730" ball from a custom J.Tanner mould. In a full choked barrel, so no damage would result to the choke, a ball diameter of .690" would work perfectly. Lyman and Lee both make .690" ball moulds. That ball, in pure lead, would weigh about 490gr. to 495gr. The undersized ball I used worked just fine, even in my non-choked bores, a tight .725" for each.
; To load - one card wad on the powder charge, starting with 3 drams, going upwards in 1/4 dram jumps. A dram is 27.3gr., so 3drams is 82gr. Over the card wad, is a cushion wad, then the plastic cup wad with the cup toward the shell top. Then the ball, then I used the cone crimp head of my old Press to press the plastic down onto the ball. The wad colunm is adjusted so the ball is almost comvered with the plastic of the shot-shell. I didn't try any in paper shells. I merely used AA hulls.
; I found room to work all the way up to the biggest BP laod used in 12 bore, 7 drams or 191gr. 1F powder. That one kicks like h$ll in a 7 pound gun, btw. I satisfied myself with 150gr. charges, which is 5-1/2 drams. This gave me 1,500 or 1,550fps, I can't remember exactly and was the moderate RB load for Africa. this one shot parallel in my gun, both barrels printing side by side all the way out to 100 yards. A 12" steel plate, 2-1/2" thick would dance and dance upon impacts with this load, laft/right/left/right time after time, offhand, whereas a fellow's 7mm mag with 175gr. bullets barely was able to cause the plate to swing gently back and forth a few times. After about 7 hits from the 12 bore, the holding chain broke. it sure impressed the bloke with the 7mm mag. He wante dto know the FPE, of course and wondered how the 12 bore could make it dance when his gun, producing much more fpe, barely made the plate move. As well, he had to shoot off the bench to hit it. I elected not to shoot off the bench unless I was testing loads.
; I then worked up a velocity duplication load using SR4756 powder. This was very easy, and had no more recoil (or presure) than a duck load - beautiful to shoot, but had the same power as the punishing BP load. BTW, the punishing BP load produces less breech pressure than the smokeless load.
: In summary - decap and re-prime - Black Powder 1F - 1/4" card wad, up to 2 fibre wads or more if room, plastic cup, cup upwards, ball, crimp pedals over ball.
: Decap and reprime - smokeless powder (Lyman's shotshell book has loads to try) card wad and fibre wad, plastic wad, cup up, ball, crimp.
: Adjust the wads to allow proper height for crimping the plastic over the ball. I found I could also do a normal folded crimp if rood allowed. This, I used mostly for smokeless loads, for ease of telling them apart from BP loads that only had the plastic folded partly over the ball. I hope this explains the procedure.
; Greener's book shows a cross-section of an 8 bore brass case loaded with a round ball. In it, the BP goes almost to the top of the case, leaving room for a card wad, and a cupped fibre wad, the 1/2 the ball sticking out the case mouth. With brass cases, this is how I would have loaded black powder. The "Old West Scrounger" and maybe Trackofthewolf.com has 12 bore brass cases for sale. The typical load for the 8 bore round ball loads, for both rifled and smoothbore guns was 8 to 12 drams.
; BTW- no damage to chokes, even with the .684 ball tightly patched in cotton as done by my friends for shooting moose while duck hunting from their full choked guns. I never got around to trying cloth patched balls, but don't see why they wouldn't provide even better accuracy than I got, due to their tight fit and foulintg softening traits. The boys reported 5" groups at 50 yards form their modern pump guns & holing both sides of a 45 (IMP) gallon drum wit WW round balls. Factory Foster slugs merely made lead splashes without indentation.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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CptCurlAdministrator
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Re: 8 bore vs 4 bore [Re: DarylS]
      #62475 - 14/09/06 12:49 PM

Daryl,

Thanks again!

Curl



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CptCurlAdministrator
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Re: 8 bore vs 4 bore [Re: CptCurl]
      #62476 - 14/09/06 12:53 PM

Daryl,

Another question:

If you use a brass case with a .690 ball doesn't that leave the payload really loose in the case, since the case walls are much thinner than plastic or cardboard?

Curl



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bulldog563
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Re: 8 bore vs 4 bore [Re: empirevr]
      #62479 - 14/09/06 01:14 PM

empirevr,

Champlins has a very nice Holland 8 Paradox for 21 and a Rodda fully rifled 8 bore for 18.5. If they are in (or near) your price range may be worth a call.

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Chasseur
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Re: 8 bore vs 4 bore [Re: DarylS]
      #62482 - 14/09/06 05:20 PM

Hey guys great thread and posts! Keep up the good information!

Thanks Daryl!

--------------------
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empirevr
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Re: 8 bore vs 4 bore [Re: Chasseur]
      #62483 - 14/09/06 06:43 PM

Hi all

Thankyou once again for the excellent information,Daryl.

'Curl i'm sure you'll have fun with that shotty using Daryls method!!!

Bulldog, thanks for the link but those prices are a tad high...... i know where there is an 8 bore paradox H&H rifle for £6,000/$12,000 and to be fair, i also know where i can get a double 8 bore English shotgun for just £975/$1900......

My budget depends on the fact that i intend to purchase some other firearms also.

Any 8 bore/shotgun/rifle will be my primary pride and joy, so this i will spend more on naturally.

But, Daryl has me interested........using his method i can create my own smooth bore 8, for a much lower price,same results as a paradox basically, and perhaps in much better overall condition than a same age rifle would be in...(due to the much higher availability of the shotguns,compared to the rifles)

I guess its a tough one,but i can say that the 8 bore paradox i have seen has no express sights.....this i dislike....was it a conversion job also?

Should i post a photo?

Ben


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DarylS
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Re: 8 bore vs 4 bore [Re: CptCurl]
      #62490 - 15/09/06 12:25 AM

Good question, Curl. For shooting in a choked gun, the ball must be under choke size. That is .690" in a normal full choked 12 bore. The extra tight chokes as made for shooting turkey's or steel shot may be tighter yet, I don't know, haven't measured any of them.
: I have only used plastic cases for my loads. I'm assuming the brass shells are thinner, and have more room. This will changed the wads needed, etc. Trackofthewolf.com has all the different gauges of wads available.
; My idea of the lower plastic cup for centering the ball in the barrel was a good one, however, other articles can be used. Use your imagination.
: A wad punch, like a 1/2" or 3/8 arch punch, chucked in an electirc drill and run through a fiber wad, or several 1/4" card wads, will make a centering device that will hold the ball in the centre of the bore. Load the card wad or wads on the powder, then or holed fiber or card wads, set the ball in the depression and it will be held in the centre of the bore for a perfect launch. This centering device is only to prevent the ball from bouncing off the sides of the bore on it's trip out to the muzzle. This was why the 18th century muskets were innaccurate and why the pumpkin ball 12 bore round ball loads of the pre-foster slug era were also inaccurate.
: Something must be used to centre the ball - this is only limited by your imagination. As well, for filling in the centre of shot patterns from cylinder bored gun, the holed wads will keep extra pellets in the centre of the pattern for you. Francis Sell, loaded his heavy 20 bore goose loads like this in the 1960's. Nothing new, just old ideas used for different applications.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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empirevr
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Re: 8 bore vs 4 bore [Re: DarylS]
      #62497 - 15/09/06 05:30 AM

Some truly superb information there Daryl,which i shall doubtlessly use.

Found a nice 8g single Webley for £1,100.....but then i saw a double somewhere for £600.

An off topic question which requires your expertise....

One often sees old hammer rifles marked as being 'nitro proof'....now what does this entail? what does this mean? That the rifle has been re-proofed to nitro loads?

Well if so,as i believe so,surely this doesnt do a rifle originally made for BP any good at all? Or,can one find older hammer guns in .500 nitro?(3" case)

Thanks.

Ben


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500Nitro
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Re: 8 bore vs 4 bore [Re: empirevr]
      #62498 - 15/09/06 05:38 AM


empirevr

Regarding your question about
One often sees old hammer rifles marked as being 'nitro proof'....now what does this entail? what does this mean? That the rifle has been re-proofed to nitro loads?
Well if so,as i believe so,surely this doesnt do a rifle originally made for BP any good at all? Or,can one find older hammer guns in .500 nitro?(3" case)

Just because a gun is a hammer gun doesn't mea it had to be black powder. Nitro powders came into being well (quite a few years) before Hammer guns stopped being made but it took a while for the proof laws to catch up.

I had a Holland 500/450 3 1/4" Nitro Hammer Double Rifle and I have seen a number of Rigby's.

Though when buying, it is wise to check that it is not just a reproof.

Hope this helps.

500 Nitro


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empirevr
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Re: 8 bore vs 4 bore [Re: 500Nitro]
      #62499 - 15/09/06 05:41 AM

Thankyou kindly sir

So if reproofed,there would be both BP and NE marks......yes?

If original, just NE marks?

What sort of trouble arises with a reproofed gun? surely this is very dangerous.......??

Thankyou

Ben


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400NitroExpress
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Re: 8 bore vs 4 bore [Re: empirevr]
      #62500 - 15/09/06 05:50 AM

Original full nitro (not reproved from black) underlever hammer guns are relatively common. Hammer guns were made in quantity much later than most think. Also, original nitro proof was available in the UK from 1887. If you like hammer guns, you need to learn the proof marks. Nitro re-proof from black is easy to spot. There will be two full sets of proof marks. It is dangerous to fire full nitro in a rifle only proved for black. The purpose of re-proof to nitro is to establish that it is safe in that particular rifle.

Champlins had a really nice William Evans underlever hammergun in .450/.400 Nitro for sale some years ago. That rifle was made in 1937.
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"Serious rifles have two barrels, everything else just burns gunpowder."


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500Nitro
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Re: 8 bore vs 4 bore [Re: empirevr]
      #62501 - 15/09/06 05:58 AM


So if reproofed,there would be both BP and NE marks......yes?
IN THEORY YES, Although sometimes the old BP Proof arks can be worn down or invisible. It will also have a REPROOF Mark stamp.

If original, just NE marks? YES, if originally Nitro Proofed and done at a time when Nitro Proof Marks were stamped.
Just remember that Nitro Proof guns exist that do not have Nitro Proof marks.

What sort of trouble arises with a reproofed gun? surely this is very dangerous.......??
Not always so - I am always a bit cautious but if it has been reproofed correctly which if done at one of the proof houses it would have been it should be OK.

Some BP were built like brick outhouses, especially when before they had worked out they didn't need the guns to be so big and heavy so some of these could easily be reproofed to Nitro (or Nitro for Black)

My concern is when people reproof a gun to increase it's value and that gun passes proof but you know that the action was never designed to take such a cartridge. It will pass proof but over time will shoot loose.
ie Cogswell & Harrison 375 2 1/2" NE Boxlock DR's - often seen around rechambered to 375 Flanged Magnum (the H&H Cartridge).
This action just wouldn't take the pressure and would shoot loose over a period of time. After all, why do Holland & Holland sell this cartridge and Purdey the 369 Purdey with a reinforce action design ? Because they worked out it needed it.

I have a small Webley style actioned Hammerless Boxlock in 360 2 7/16th BPE, This could easily be reproofed to NE except it would ruin the collector value.

Hope this helps.

500 Nitro


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empirevr
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Re: 8 bore vs 4 bore [Re: 500Nitro]
      #62502 - 15/09/06 06:23 AM

Thankyou sirs.

Well,the item in question looks somewhat older than 1937.....

Also though,at £2,250 seems to be an amazing bargain for a .500 NE of any sort......im wondering if this 'nitro proofed' statement is merely a mistake...certainly doesnt seem worthwhile advertising it as an NE for such a low price, unless it is an NE and perhaps a bit rough......certainly isnt in amazing condition......

I have enquired about it,and will report the result which i am certain will be 'sorry our chap had written the advert incorrectly'

Lets wait and see.........

I must say,i still have very good contacts in Blighty for such guns,its all a matter of what you happen to want,what you wish to use, and much more besides.......

I'd rather have an 8 bore rifle over a .500 NE any day, but this is more a personal,and historical thing,than anything else......

Ben


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400NitroExpress
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Re: 8 bore vs 4 bore [Re: 500Nitro]
      #62504 - 15/09/06 06:37 AM

This re-proof business can get confusing. It all depends on when it was done. If a .500 3" was reproved to Nitro as the full nitro version became common, there will two full sets of marks. Nine times out of ten, there will NOT be a re-proof mark present. Not until relatively recently (1954 rules) has use of the reproof mark become fairly reliable.

You actually have to be MORE careful with later re-proofs. In the old days, the new marks were stamped right alongside the old so that what was done (or changed, if anything) was obvious, and the re-proof mark was therefore redundant. I believe it was actually illegal to remove the old marks. In more recent years, the old marks are actually filed off. (Yeah, you file off enough of the flats to get rid of the old marks, you've got to refit the barrels to the action, which is expensive. Cyril Adams, former owner/managing director of Atkin, Grant & Lang, really went on a rant when I asked him about this.) This means you can't tell what was originally there. Worse, use of the re-proof mark is still weird. My understanding is that if the caliber didn't change, they use it. If rifle was rechambered, it's a new caliber and they don't use it.

Was looking at a nice .375 Flanged Magnum the other day, which was an obvious London re-proof ("18 tons" on a 1920's gun). Old marks filed off. No re-proof mark. Is this a .375 2.5" converted to a Flanged Magnum, or a simple re-proof of an original Flanged Magnum for some routine reason? Impossible to tell.
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"Serious rifles have two barrels, everything else just burns gunpowder."


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empirevr
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Re: 8 bore vs 4 bore [Re: 400NitroExpress]
      #62506 - 15/09/06 07:00 AM

Thankyou .400'

So,wow well........actually seems rather complex......

I shall forward any and all details to you forthwith......such as stamps which i shall ask for. Certainly not going back to Blighty on a whim.....

Nice looking gun,but a bit pitted/restored looking........hence low price perhaps?

Yet,one must say........as far as old rifles go in .500 NE what are the min prices anyway? this is $4,500..........

Cheerio

Ben


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400NitroExpress
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Re: 8 bore vs 4 bore [Re: empirevr]
      #62516 - 15/09/06 02:28 PM

Ben:

$4,500 US would be a very low figure for an original .500 Nitro hammergun to be sure. It would be low for a .500 BPE for that matter. Check it out carefully. An original full nitro .500 would be marked "Cordite 80, 570 MAX" on the barrel flats.

Be careful of the Nitro for Blacks. A few rifles were specifically proved for the NFB load, and are therefore "Nitro Proof", but not really. The .500 NFB load ranged from 52 grains Cordite with a 340 grain lead bullet to 63 grains Cordite with a 440 grain lead bullet. These rifles will have a Nitro Proof mark if made after 1904. If made prior to 1904, Cordite will be mentioned on the flats but there will be no Nitro Proof mark. Either means Nitro proof. However, Nitro for Black cartridges were specifically intended for use in Black Powder proof rifles and did not develop greater pressure than standard black loads. In other words, Nitro Proof for Nitro for Black loads really means Black Powder Proof only. Don't confuse this with true Nitro Proof. You can't go by the Nitro mark, you have to look for the load marked on the flats along with it.
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"Serious rifles have two barrels, everything else just burns gunpowder."


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DarylS
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Re: 8 bore vs 4 bore [Re: empirevr]
      #62520 - 16/09/06 12:33 AM

There are many underlever hammer guns that were originally proofed for cordite. Jack Lott (or one of the other older African hunters) used one such in .577 for Buffalo many years ago. It was written up in Gun Digest, Purple cover, I think (but may be wrong).
: It is a rare gun that was originally made for BP, but is re-proffed fro nitro. My good friend and double collector has one-such W.Richards 10 bore black powder double shotgun, refurbished by H&H, that was re-proofed for modern loads. It was virtually new, almost unfired when he got it, but was neglected and the stock needed re-finishing. He also wanted the original-type leather case for it.
: Today, one can find almost anything one wants. The trouble is affording them once found.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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empirevr
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Re: 8 bore vs 4 bore [Re: DarylS]
      #62526 - 16/09/06 07:09 AM

Kind sirs.......

Yes i will admit that $4,500 is low for a nitro,yet not for a BP....

I know of several sites with BP guns for such prices, and less...... an Isaac Hollis .577 for £1,600/$3,200.....

Same but by Scott for $4,000 in better(brilliant) condition.....

Various .500x3" BPE's from £1,300-£2,000/$2,600-$4,000.....

Are you being given raised prices i wonder due to transport and rarity in the US and Canada?

I have often planned......to visit India,part of the Empire at one time,and Calcutta, where i have noticed that it may be very likely to find much great treaures......bests,made for Maharajas.....down to lovely strong guns made for work. The place is full of them.

But this is a dream,and that of a busy man.

I thankyou both for your kind information, i will be ringing this smith tomorrow to see what they have to say upon the matter.....i have many doubts that it is a nitro,but being of sound mind and body i shall of course be making proceedures to purchase it if it is the genuine article. I shall simply make a visit to my brother in London and go on from there.....

Either way,i shall still be buying an 8 gauge gun.

Daryl,you are right,but at such prices ones dreams become much more of a reality.....its only when one asks for a 4 bore rifle or .600 NE that ones dreams become nothing more than that which they are!

IF any of you are in the market for something,feel free to inform me of what and i shall gladly try to help.....just as you have helped me here.

And no,i do not want fees and such, being thanked is fine.

Perhaps in return someone may know of a great priced 8 gauge shotty? i know these can be cheap,and are of much less interest to many of you.

Thankyou

Ben


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400NitroExpress
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Re: 8 bore vs 4 bore [Re: empirevr]
      #62529 - 16/09/06 08:19 AM

No, we're not given raised prices here. They're often cheaper here than they are in England. Lots of pitted, shot out and used up stuff available at those prices, but not stuff worth having. As far as the double rifles go, the British auctions are loaded with wall hangers that won't sell. Lots of those end up on the net.
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"Serious rifles have two barrels, everything else just burns gunpowder."


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500Nitro
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Re: 8 bore vs 4 bore [Re: 400NitroExpress]
      #62530 - 16/09/06 08:53 AM


400

Well said.

I agree - I get every auction catalogue from the UK and look at it all - everything may look "cheap" but apart from wall hangars alot would have to have money spent to make them worthwhile.

500 Nitro


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mickey
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Re: 8 bore vs 4 bore [Re: empirevr]
      #62531 - 16/09/06 11:07 AM

empire

I t is helpful to all of us who read these posts to know the location of the posters. As you will note we are from all around the World and prices and supplies differ from place to place.

Could you go into your profile and list your Country for us?

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Lovu Zdar
Mick

A Man of Pleasure, Enterprise, Wit and Spirit Rare Books, Big Game Hunting, English Rifles, Fishing, Explosives, Chauvinism, Insensitivity, Public Drunkenness and Sloth, Champion of Lost and Unpopular Causes.


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DarylS
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Re: 8 bore vs 4 bore [Re: empirevr]
      #62533 - 16/09/06 11:13 AM

I will most certainly let you know if I hear of an 8, in rifle or smoothbore.
: I must get a letter off to my double-gun collec0tor friend. Besides the .500 Maharaja double rifle he has, he still has 12, 10 and 8 bore rifles and shotguns. You never know, maybe one is for sale. All of his gun aquisitions were sent to H&H for re-furbishing back in the 70's when such work was reasonable. I recall a price of $650.00 or maybe $750.00 CDN for one 12 bore re-done, along with another $600.00 just for the leather bound case. That was in 1977, I think. It was a fair piece of change then but much more now, I'd think. The gun price included re-browning of the damascus barrels, simply beautiful and looking brand new.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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empirevr
.375 member


Reged: 03/09/06
Posts: 614
Loc: England,but now Italy.
Re: 8 bore vs 4 bore [Re: DarylS]
      #62537 - 16/09/06 11:37 AM

Hello all

Country listed now.

Tuscany,and Italy are a great relief for us British,as the gun laws at home are confining to say the least!

Sorry,but......i am aware that many fine British guns have now gone to the US and Australia, and Canada also(aided also by your superior laws i am sure) and yet though many may well be wall hangers and such,it is here that the usable and good conditioned ones which you have yourselves came from.

Naturally,it is best to go to the source of where a thing is made to find what you want,and at the best price......for example,if you have a best British gun,then obviously thats where it came from.

BUT,i do notice that some superb guns come from Germany,Belgium, Austria and so on....

If we're talking of old rifles and shotguns,i think its fair to say that Britain had the most and the best of the merchandise, due to the excessive use by the British during the Victorian era,of firearms for hunting in the colonies and such.

But due to our horrendous laws, i concede that perhaps the most of the usable guns would go to your countries, while the hangers are left more to us......no license for an antique arm as long as it is not used,and no ammunition is kept.

But i assure you,bargains can be had.....a friend i know is a friend of the Earl of Kent, and he himself has numerous BP double rifles, though he may not sell them now,later who knows.....

Though many may not be so great,others i promise would be superb,and very well priced.......some of these guns were used for one 'hunt' which was more of a pose than anything else,as once big game hunting was an aristocrats neccesity. It seems that then,just as now,it has always been costly and a sport of the wealthy.

But as i stated, India may yet be un untried land of treasures.....if you search online you will even hear of bore-rifles being used in crimes and such.......

Anyway, i shall report back after a chat with the seller of this 'hammer .500 NE' tomorrow......

Cheerio

Ben


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