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RLI
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Splinter or Beavertail fore-end?
      #111822 - 14/08/08 07:18 PM

Is there any difference to the handling of a heavy double (.470NE) if it has a splinter or beavertail fore-end? is one better than the other for regulation? or is it just personal preference? Thanks

RLI

--------------------
"Life is tough, but it's tougher when you're stupid." — John Wayne


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tinker
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Re: Splinter or Beavertail fore-end? [Re: RLI]
      #111836 - 15/08/08 02:24 AM

RLI-


With my rifles, there's no wood where I grip the barrels when in a shooting position, if anything the forend tip ends up in the shallow palm of my support hand.
I tend to grip the barrels ahead of the forend wood.
My rifles have splinter forends, and I think a beavertail forend would get in the way of handling the rifle.

The only time my hands spend any time on the forend is while carrying the rifle or taking it from carry to shooting positions.



--Tinker

--------------------
--Self-Appointed Colonel, DRSS--



"It IS a dangerous game, and so named for a reason, and you can't play from the keyboard. " --Some Old Texan...


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500Nitro
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Re: Splinter or Beavertail fore-end? [Re: tinker]
      #111837 - 15/08/08 02:34 AM


I have both and the beaver tail foreend
is quite comfortable and easy to hold.


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400NitroExpress
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Re: Splinter or Beavertail fore-end? [Re: tinker]
      #111847 - 15/08/08 04:41 AM

Quote:

With my rifles, there's no wood where I grip the barrels when in a shooting position, if anything the forend tip ends up in the shallow palm of my support hand.
I tend to grip the barrels ahead of the forend wood.
My rifles have splinter forends, and I think a beavertail forend would get in the way of handling the rifle.




Ditto. No need for most DR fore-ends to be more than 8" long. For most shooters, that places the leading hand in the most natural position for a comfortable grip on the barrels just forward of the wood. Most beavertails are longer and interfere with a proper hold on the barrels in the natural position. Don't fall into the trap of thinking that a beavertail will protect your fingers from hot barrels on a large bore DR. If you're holding onto it correctly, it won't.

--------------------
"Serious rifles have two barrels, everything else just burns gunpowder."


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RLI
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Re: Splinter or Beavertail fore-end? [Re: 400NitroExpress]
      #111871 - 15/08/08 10:29 AM

I had a double 470 with splinter and always thought a beavertail would be better ,now I have one with beavertail and I think the splinter may be better but I have to shoot it first then I will give a report back,

--------------------
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zimhunter
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Re: Splinter or Beavertail fore-end? [Re: RLI]
      #111874 - 15/08/08 10:50 AM

Personal opinion of course but I not only prefer beavertail forends but think splinter types are lacking in esthetic appeal. In fact I think they are downright UGLI on either a shotgun OR a rifle. Don't really grasp the logic of grasping the barrels. As I say PERSONAL opinion.

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NE450No2
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Re: Splinter or Beavertail fore-end? [Re: zimhunter]
      #111875 - 15/08/08 11:00 AM

I prefer the splinter fore end, however I do not find the semi-beavertail fore end on the Chapuis 9,3x74 R to be too big.

With a beavertail forend on a heavy kicker like a 470, if you only hold on to the wood you run the risk of maybe breaking something, pulling the fore end off the bbl.


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500Nitro
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Re: Splinter or Beavertail fore-end? [Re: NE450No2]
      #111876 - 15/08/08 11:16 AM

Quote:



With a beavertail forend on a heavy kicker like a 470, if you only hold on to the wood you run the risk of maybe breaking something, pulling the fore end off the bbl.





ONLY IF IT WAS FAULTY.


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DUGABOY1
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Re: Splinter or Beavertail fore-end? [Re: 500Nitro]
      #111923 - 16/08/08 05:05 AM

The beavertail was designed for use with a shotgun where you fire 100 shots per day at driven birds, or compition. With a shotgun used in thet manor, the beavertail has some utility,because those barrels get hot. However, a slip-on hand guard, in conjunction with a splenter fore-end, makes more sense if you want to keep your fingers off the barrels, yet hod them, instead of the wood.

The classic double rifle is always fitted with a splinter fore-end, and make no mistake, if you are shooting a BIG bore double rifle, and holding a beavertail by the wood, you are doing slow damage to the wood, and conecting apporatus, and it will fail sooner or later. If you find a used double where the fore-end is loose, then it is because the last owner was holding it by the wood only, instead of resting the forward part of the wood in the palm of his hand, with the fingers wrapped around the barrels. IMO, what is UGGGGGGGGGLY is a beavertail fore-end on a double rifle, and simi-beavertail is no better looking. Those abortions can be fixed with a little wood shaving, and sand paper! A double rifle is almost never fired more than four shots quickly, so there is no need for a heat-sink!

Of course some folks like obese women, and beavertail forends, so if that suits you be my guest, I'll stick with the lean meat, and slim fore-ends!

--------------------
..........Mac >>>===(x)===>
DUGABOY1, and MacD37 founding member of DRSS www.doublerifleshooterssociety.com
"If I die today, I have had a life well spent, for I've been to see the Elephant, and smelled the smoke of Africa!"


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NitroXAdministrator
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Re: Splinter or Beavertail fore-end? [Re: zimhunter]
      #111977 - 16/08/08 11:42 PM

Quote:

Personal opinion of course but I not only prefer beavertail forends but think splinter types are lacking in esthetic appeal. In fact I think they are downright UGLI on either a shotgun OR a rifle. Don't really grasp the logic of grasping the barrels. As I say PERSONAL opinion.




Different tastes. I prefer the splinter fore-end for looks.

Beaver tail fore-ends are often made for the US market at least in the shotgun market.

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John aka NitroX

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RLI
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Re: Splinter or Beavertail fore-end? [Re: NitroX]
      #111990 - 17/08/08 10:10 AM

I notice there is different ways a fore-end is held in place ,my 470 double has a Rigby swing lever, my webley a push-rod design and others have a pull out lever.

Is one better than the others?

cheers
steve

--------------------
"Life is tough, but it's tougher when you're stupid." — John Wayne


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DUGABOY1
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Re: Splinter or Beavertail fore-end? [Re: RLI]
      #112175 - 21/08/08 01:53 AM

Quote:

I notice there is different ways a fore-end is held in place ,my 470 double has a Rigby swing lever, my webley a push-rod design and others have a pull out lever.

Is one better than the others?

cheers
steve




Probably the Swing lever is the most secure, but I simply don't like them! My favorite is the DEELEY lever (pull out lever)But some "EXPERTS" say they are inferior to the swing lever, and may be. The Anson plunger release ( push-rod) works fine, but if it jams in anyway, the only fix is to take chisel and split the wood to get to the works of it. There is another one, from older rifle days, and is a hold over from the muzzle loader days, and that is the cross wedge. Unless you are simply into nostalgia, this one I would leave in the store! I have double rifles with all four fasteners, but the wedge type is actually on a muzzel loading double rifle, so is appropiate for that rifle.

I DO NOT however own a double rifle or shotgun with a beavertail fore-end, nor will I own one with out modifying the fore wood to as near splenter as I can get!

--------------------
..........Mac >>>===(x)===>
DUGABOY1, and MacD37 founding member of DRSS www.doublerifleshooterssociety.com
"If I die today, I have had a life well spent, for I've been to see the Elephant, and smelled the smoke of Africa!"


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DarylS
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Re: Splinter or Beavertail fore-end? [Re: DUGABOY1]
      #112176 - 21/08/08 02:16 AM

The spinter is the only true double forend - rifle or shotgun. The barrels are held, not a damn chunk of wood. The beaver tail is an American invention (you'd think Canadian, wouldn't you?) to show off special wood grain and charge more for it. The spinter is the fastest and is a natural forend - the barrels, dagnabbit, grab the barrels!

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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400NitroExpress
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Re: Splinter or Beavertail fore-end? [Re: 500Nitro]
      #112240 - 22/08/08 05:26 AM

Quote:

Quote:



With a beavertail forend on a heavy kicker like a 470, if you only hold on to the wood you run the risk of maybe breaking something, pulling the fore end off the bbl.





ONLY IF IT WAS FAULTY.




No, he's right, and it does happen with quality SXS doubles fitted with BTFEs. The fore-end loop is typically soft soldered to the barrels on top quality doubles, just like the ribs are. When a hard kicking large bore double rifle is fired while held improperly, as NE450No2 described above, the attachment is subjected to stress that is not present with a splinter, and damage can result as described. The purpose of the fore-end wood is to enclose and protect the fore-end iron. Splinter fore-ends are intentionally very small - too small to use for a handle - because the fore-end isn't intended to be a handle, nor should it be used as one. Splinters are more than just "traditional", and this is only one of the reasons why.

--------------------
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400NitroExpress
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Re: Splinter or Beavertail fore-end? [Re: RLI]
      #112243 - 22/08/08 06:25 AM

Quote:

I notice there is different ways a fore-end is held in place ,my 470 double has a Rigby swing lever, my webley a push-rod design and others have a pull out lever.

Is one better than the others?

cheers
steve




Wilkinson's Screw Grip Fore-end Fastener is the oldest of the common three, and is by far the most positive, durable, and trouble-free. You described it as "a Rigby swing lever". Patent was originally Wilkinson Sword Co.'s (you know, the razor blade people), Rigby apparently purchased it later.

Anson's 1872 push-button design ("my Webley a push rod design") came next, and is the next best. Reliable, but on occasion the threaded stem has been known to turn out under heavy recoil, locking the fore-end on the gun. Getting it off requires removing the wood from the fore-end iron with a chisel. Good design, but not as ideal for a DR as the screw-grip lever type.

The Deeley & Edge design of 1873 ("a pull out lever") was both the last and the least. I've had this type on a number of double guns of various makes, and have never had anything but trouble with it. Of course, this is the one that Merkel, Searcy, Heym, Krieghoff, and Chapuis all use on their double rifles. I gather that the parts for this type must be available in quantity really cheap.

--------------------
"Serious rifles have two barrels, everything else just burns gunpowder."


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450_366
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Re: Splinter or Beavertail fore-end? [Re: 400NitroExpress]
      #112244 - 22/08/08 06:57 AM

Quote:

Quote:

I notice there is different ways a fore-end is held in place ,my 470 double has a Rigby swing lever, my webley a push-rod design and others have a pull out lever.

Is one better than the others?

cheers
steve




Wilkinson's Screw Grip Fore-end Fastener is the oldest of the common three, and is by far the most positive, durable, and trouble-free. You described it as "a Rigby swing lever". Patent was originally Wilkinson Sword Co.'s (you know, the razor blade people), Rigby apparently purchased it later.

Anson's 1872 push-button design ("my Webley a push rod design") came next, and is the next best. Reliable, but on occasion the threaded stem has been known to turn out under heavy recoil, locking the fore-end on the gun. Getting it off requires removing the wood from the fore-end iron with a chisel. Good design, but not as ideal for a DR as the screw-grip lever type.

The Deeley & Edge design of 1873 ("a pull out lever") was both the last and the least. I've had this type on a number of double guns of various makes, and have never had anything but trouble with it. Of course, this is the one that Merkel, Searcy, Heym, Krieghoff, and Chapuis all use on their double rifles. I gather that the parts for this type must be available in quantity really cheap.




Sound right that they all want to use the worst, and that the development stopped with it only shows that its must be the worst. As for the germans they been using it sinse they abandoned the wedge and they are a bunch of realy sloppy builders arent they?

But i agree for an old english double shotgun the anson is the right one, and for a bore gun the wilkinson would be prefered. But this has nothing to do with the quality of the lock only the tradition.

BTW Im pritty short about 175cm and i tend to hold all s/s doubles att the beginning of the forend,
so a swullen chunk of timber would only mean that my hands wont be able to grip around it. That means that i would have to hold on to the checkering of the wood. And getting the hand around the barrels are a good way to improve the instinctive aim.

--------------------
Andreas

"Yeas it kicks like a mule he said, but always remember that its much worse standing on the other end"


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4seventy
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Re: Splinter or Beavertail fore-end? [Re: 400NitroExpress]
      #120055 - 02/12/08 03:02 PM

Quote:

The Anson plunger release ( push-rod) works fine, but if it jams in anyway, the only fix is to take chisel and split the wood to get to the works of it.




Quote:

Anson's 1872 push-button design ("my Webley a push rod design") came next, and is the next best. Reliable, but on occasion the threaded stem has been known to turn out under heavy recoil, locking the fore-end on the gun. Getting it off requires removing the wood from the fore-end iron with a chisel.




Wow, that sounds nasty.
What's the story on this, does anyone have more details?
What is this "threaded stem" which can turn out, and how does it cause this lockup?
What rifles has this happened on?

Mac, do you have any more info?
Was it written up somewhere recently?
Thanks.


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new_guy
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Re: Splinter or Beavertail fore-end? [Re: 4seventy]
      #120424 - 06/12/08 02:49 AM

Me? Splinter all the way on shotguns and rifles. I have been amazed though at how many of my customers want a semi-beavertail. I try and try to explain where the leading hand goes on the barrels, but I've yet to to change any of their minds. They must think I'm crazy for holding on to the barrels when there's a perfectly good wooden forend there!

--------------------
www.heymUSA.com


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JabaliHunter
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Re: Splinter or Beavertail fore-end? [Re: new_guy]
      #120435 - 06/12/08 03:55 AM

Purdey pigeon guns have beavertails - Seems eminently suitable for an 8lb 4oz 12bore high bird gun(high driven pheasants @40+ yards) that would get very hot firing 32g 5s or 34g 4s all day! On anything else I'd rather have a splinter

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Mike_Bailey
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Re: Splinter or Beavertail fore-end? [Re: JabaliHunter]
      #120437 - 06/12/08 03:59 AM

Jabali, live pigeon very popular here but think 36 grams of no.6 through full and full, no 32's !! best, Mike

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JabaliHunter
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Re: Splinter or Beavertail fore-end? [Re: Mike_Bailey]
      #120448 - 06/12/08 05:55 AM

Now I know why pigeon guns are so heavy!!

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DarylS
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Re: Splinter or Beavertail fore-end? [Re: new_guy]
      #120450 - 06/12/08 06:02 AM

Quote:

Me? Splinter all the way on shotguns and rifles. I have been amazed though at how many of my customers want a semi-beavertail. I try and try to explain where the leading hand goes on the barrels, but I've yet to to change any of their minds. They must think I'm crazy for holding on to the barrels when there's a perfectly good wooden forend there!




I agree, new guy - this is not the only 'arena' where old habbits die hard. Difficult to push a rope - lead a horse to water, etc, etc. Sometimes makes me wonder why we keep trying.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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bigdog
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Re: Splinter or Beavertail fore-end? [Re: DarylS]
      #120466 - 06/12/08 09:30 AM

I have to admit that I learned to shoot doubles with my grip on the forearm, not the barrel. Right or wrong, that the way I shoot, and some splinter forearms don't have much room for grip. You are certainly correct, old habits do die hard. It just doesn't seem right to grab the barrel when shooting, just depends on what you are used to.

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DarylS
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Re: Splinter or Beavertail fore-end? [Re: bigdog]
      #120478 - 06/12/08 01:08 PM

Bigdog - preference. I-too was taught to shoot, holding onto the forewood. Since all the double shotguns I used had full beavertail forends, you couldn't grip anywhere else.

When I picked up the English trade double made back around 1910 with the splinter, I've been practising with that style and prefer it now. All the single 1/2 bore foulers in percussion I've shot also have what would be considered a splinter, Holding out on the barrel has become second nature. Grabbing a double with a beavertail forend makes me mutter to myself - "bet this thing would be great with a splinter forend".

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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bigdog
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Re: Splinter or Beavertail fore-end? [Re: DarylS]
      #120484 - 06/12/08 07:09 PM

I guess some of us are just too stubborn to correct and switch.

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450_366
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Re: Splinter or Beavertail fore-end? [Re: bigdog]
      #120487 - 06/12/08 08:00 PM

Btw, anyone with a splinter o/u?

--------------------
Andreas

"Yeas it kicks like a mule he said, but always remember that its much worse standing on the other end"


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DarylS
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Re: Splinter or Beavertail fore-end? [Re: bigdog]
      #120513 - 07/12/08 05:34 AM

Just like 'Everyone was born right handed, but some of us were able to overcome that handicap and switched to left handed."

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V


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4seventy
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Re: Splinter or Beavertail fore-end? [Re: new_guy]
      #121062 - 13/12/08 09:12 AM

Quote:

Me? Splinter all the way on shotguns and rifles. I have been amazed though at how many of my customers want a semi-beavertail. I try and try to explain where the leading hand goes on the barrels, but I've yet to to change any of their minds. They must think I'm crazy for holding on to the barrels when there's a perfectly good wooden forend there!




new_guy,
It's interesting that all these guys are shooting their doubles while holding the beavertail or semi beavertail fore-end wood.
It has been claimed here in this thread, and on other forums, that this can (and does) break the solder joint at the barrel loop on some quality doubles.
Another claim is that the Deeley style of fore-end lever is problomatic.

As most Heym doubles are fitted with both a semi beavertail fore-end and the Deeley release lever system, I'm interested to hear what your experiences have been regarding any problems or breakages relating to the above.
Thanks


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new_guy
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Re: Splinter or Beavertail fore-end? [Re: 4seventy]
      #121651 - 20/12/08 03:50 PM

4sevnty - As you know, forend loops are traditionally soldered directly onto the bottom rib, and in theory can separate from the ribs. Personally, I’ve only seen this happen (first-hand) once, and it was on another brand of rifle.

The forend loop on the HEYM is not assembled this way. I've got a photo somewhere around here, but I'll try to explain it verbally.

The forend loop on the HEYM has an extension (made in the shape of an hour glass) that extends up and between the barrels. The outside contour of the barrels mate with the concave sides of the extension on the loop and create a mechanical lock that prevents the loop from moving.

When you look at the loop on the underside of the barrels, it looks like it is simply soldered to the bottom rib, but hidden underneath is a mechanical lock between the barrels and the extension on the loop.

You could probably use a pair of pliars and break the steel by bending the loop back and forth, but you can not pull it off.

I too have been told that the Deely release is inferior in some way(s). Both personally and professionally speaking, but I've never had a problem with one.


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new_guy
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Re: Splinter or Beavertail fore-end? [Re: new_guy]
      #121652 - 20/12/08 04:17 PM

Here it is.



You can see the bottom half of the hour glass shaped extension here between the barrels.

The same shape is also on the top side of the barrels, and that's the half of the "hour glass" that completes the mechanical lock.

--------------------
www.heymUSA.com


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4seventy
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Re: Splinter or Beavertail fore-end? [Re: new_guy]
      #121655 - 20/12/08 04:27 PM

new guy,
Thanks for that information.
It is good that the Heyms have that type of fitting for the loop as it would certainly make for a stronger system.

I totally agree regarding the reliability of the Deeley lever system.
I have owned several shotguns with that system, including clay target guns with a lot of rounds through them.
I also oun a couple of double rifles with deeley release levers which have done a fair amount of shooting, and I have never had any trouble whatsoever with the system in any of those guns.

Now, can you tell me any more regarding this need to chisel the fore-end wood if the catch somehow locks up with the anson release system?
It has been described in this thread as relating to the "threaded stem" turning out and locking the fore-end to the gun.

I've never heard of this before, plus many Anson fore-ends do not appear to have any "threaded stem".
Thanks for any light you can shed on this one.

Quote:

Personally, I suspect that all three are strong enough. But we’re gun nuts and we need things like this to debate around campfires and cocktails, right?




Absolutely!
I couldn't agree more.

Edit
We were posting at the same time.
I just got to see those photos. Thanks for that.
They sure aren't going to fall off in any sort of hurry!


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new_guy
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Re: Splinter or Beavertail fore-end? [Re: 4seventy]
      #121732 - 21/12/08 10:00 AM

4seventy - Here is the threaded rod portion of an Anson forend. This was on a Westley 20 bore that I owned.

Sorry for the poor quality photo.



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4seventy
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Re: Splinter or Beavertail fore-end? [Re: new_guy]
      #121765 - 21/12/08 07:23 PM

new guy,
Thanks for the photo.
Yeah, I'm quite familiar with the Anson fore-end design.

The photo shows the release rod, ( or the tube it is housed in) but in my experience that rod is usually NOT threaded.
There is a rod which is fitted inside a tube with a return spring.
The rod is fitted into a hole in the front of the locking bolt and is held in place by that tiny grub screw that can be seen in the photo.
If you undo that screw a few turns or wind it out fully, this will allow the release rod and spring to be withdrawn.

So I feel the photo shows a release rod, but not a "threaded" rod or "stem".


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