|
|
|||||||
I picked this m70 up a few weeks ago. Its a 1948 SN but with barrel dated 47. I havent made up my mind if i will drill the rear bridge or put a peep on it. The barrel passed the eye test but after shooting it a few times I have had great difficulty getting the barrel clean. I have no idea how many patches have gone through it but a wet patch never comes out clean. I borrowed a borecam and these are the pics I have. It looks pretty good other than what I assume is a small amount of pitting? I'd appreciate the community's thoughts. |
||||||||
|
|
|||||||
I'm not all that up on Winchesters, but it looks like a Super Grade model - forend tip, cheek piece. How did it shoot? If it shot well, I don't think I would think much of the patches not coming through clean. I have a couple rifles like that and eventually I just gave up once they were more or less clean. Could give it a good long soak in some sort of solvent and see what results. Also, I hate bore scopes. You can take a good shooting rifle and looking at it through a bore scope can make it look like a total disaster! Lastly, if the barrel is already non-original (by date anyway which I can't say makes it so) AND the bore is bad, you could rebore/chamber it to 350G&H Magnum. Not enough of those around! Nice rifle! |
||||||||
|
|
|||||||
Have you tried J-B Bore Bright? A good scrub with that should clean it up nicely. I killed about 90 head of plains game with my pre-64 Model 70 in .300 H&H. It will definitely do the job, if you do yours. |
||||||||
|
|
|||||||
I'm no expert on the history either but I believe its not that uncommon for a barrel and action SN to be slightly off in the transition period. and ya its a super grade. There are several "X"s stamped under the barrel so maybe a factory replacement? I dunno. I know an X on the SN means a duplicate SN. IT shoots pretty tight groups with old 220gr silvertips but about 4-5 inches above aim point. Im gonna have to find a tiny screwdriver to lower the rear sight further. I still havent made my mind up on drilling the rear bridge. No to the 350G&H! but they so seem cool. If it gets rechambered it would probably be to 334 OKH Xausa - no i havent tried that product. It seems to shoot good groups I just didnt know if the bore cam images were anything to be concerned about. Also, sorry the pics are so huge. I dont know why they posted that way. |
||||||||
|
|
|||||||
Not up on the early models but is the front ring drilled from the factory? Is the barrel drilled for a scope block? If not then what would be the reason for only drilling the front ring? |
||||||||
|
|
|||||||
Beautiful gun. I’d use it exactly as is. What’s the story of the bore? Looks bloody good to me. |
||||||||
|
|
|||||||
Quote: All pre-War Model 70's were drilled for scope mounts only on the front ring. Some barrels were drilled for target scope blocks. Magnum actions had a portion of the receiver bridge machined away to allow for loading the longer cartridges and some bridge mounts had provision for only one screw into the bridge. Some mounts used the holes intended for a receiver sight to fasten the rear mount to. |
||||||||
|
|
|||||||
My P14 barrels are just like that, terrible at fouling, but good (well as good as my eyes are) at grouping - don't panic, enjoy your new lady, she's grand as she is! If you could find a good period scope & mount, perhaps a Griffin & Howe type then I'd use them. Nothing 'new' as this would dress this old lady like 'lamb' when she is most definitely not! Fantastic rifle by the way matey, its a corker! |
||||||||
|
|
|||||||
Nice find. I would not worry about the barrel overly much. Most barrels will not pass the bore cam test with flying colours. Just know that when you use it, you have to clean it and well. I use nylon brushes to introduce the Butches Bore Shine solution in the barrel. I let it sit for up to 15 minutes then patch that out with 2 or 3 patches, then repeat. I find bronze bristle brushes leave copper or brass in the barrel. I do not use them, except for in shotguns & then mainly only if there is plastic fouling. After using a copper fouling remover, I always oil the bore with Hoppe's #9 bore solvent. It is also one of the best anti-rust agents, much better in tests than Hoppe's oil. I just use it for the oil & anti-rust content. |
||||||||
|
|
|||||||
Quote:Quote: Thanks for the info. I was wondering if there was a mount similar to one for an M-S that used the receiver sight mounting location |
||||||||
|
|
|||||||
Thanks for the info guys. I appreciate the opinions of people smarter than me! Pacecars - Stith made mounts to fit the side holes in the rear bridge typically associated with peep sights. and it just so happens I recently bought one! but not the matching scope yet if I do drill the rear I think it will be with an Ed Lapour talley base with integral peep. |
||||||||
|
|
|||||||
Very nice rifle, classic lines, tasteful checkering and also nice timber; that one is obviously a good pick! Louis |
||||||||
|
|
|||||||
It's an all original supergrade, leave it as is. There is a discussion on the other forum regarding barrel dates for Mod 70's, not uncommon. Very nice rifle. |
||||||||
|
|
|||||||
u could go with the baush and lomb scope and mounts the rear mount bolts in the peep sight holes u could modify it or go with a balvar 8 scope if u end up with a foggy one theres a guy here in the states that cleans and puts a new reticale in it and there like new. the matt receiver and deep blued barrels and parts is factory i think any modifying it you would throw 500$ out the window.has to be one of the earliest magnum supergrades out there. i wish my prewar wasn't tapped if not i have a stith mount coming on a pre 64 in a couple of weeks |