DarylS
(.700 member)
25/12/07 10:35 AM
Re: Rechambering a Ruger No. 1

Call PacNor (google 'em) and they can tell you what they barrel for and chamber. They make one of the most accurate barrels you can get - way above what the Ruger can take advantage of, but having a great barrel for reasonable cost is a nice thing.
; Harry McGowen is another you could call.
; That Ruger would make a nice .50 Alaskan - 520gr. at about 2,100fps. There is really no need for longer cases uneless you want to burn a lot more powder for little reward. (like 100fps) The .50 Alaskan uses easily aquired .348 brass blown out straight - "0" case loss in forming. After that, a set of dies from CH4D will do the rest. Normal powders like Hodgdon's Extreme H4895 & H4198 will give virtually the same pressure and velocities winter and summer, without presssure spikes. RCBS 550gr. mould was very accurate for me in my RBlock .50 Alaskan. Due to pressure limitations of the rolling block, I only ran 450gr. to 1,900fps. Harold Johnson, who designed the .50 alaskan on a m71 Winchester aciton, called it his bear stopper. He was from Cooper's Landing, Alaska. His modified 450gr. jacketed bullets ALWAYS exited the brown bears he shot, not matter from which direction. North or South, including quartering shots - all exited. He used a cut-off 750 gr. boattailed steel cored .5 browning bullets at 450gr. and reversed them for cup-pointed solid bullets. He also said the cavitation and internal damage was something to behold, due to the cup point. That was at a mere 1,850 to 1,900fps muzzle velocity. Good enough for me.
; You just made up my mind on what to do with my own 'spare' Ruger #1.



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