I like the case stopping on the safety. Allows me to pick it off and put the empty back in to the box, pull out another and blow another gopher apart.

If hanging on the safety bothers you, when a fix is so easy, what about having to bed the rifle's forewood in glass to get it to shoot? What about the drilling and tapping in an 8x32 or 10x32 screw in the hanger to allow 'adjustment' or removing the 1/4 rib and grinding, filing off about .010" from it's back edge to prevent binding on the front of the action when the barrel heats up, thus causing double or vertical grouping - or the miriad of 'other' fixes that have been developed to make a #1 shoot.

Some #1's need nothing and the .375's usually fit that boat. The other large calibres may hld that trait - I hope so. Other's, well, there's lots can be done to make them shoot. Mine does - but it was a lot of tinkering - some times it's necessary, just as 9.3x57 said.

$1,000 is a lot for me for a rifle - I only have a couple in that range or higher - yeah, I'm poor, disabled - Oh Well, life's a "B" - sometimes - but - count your blessings and get to work - it's a relatively inexpensive rifle but WHAT a RIFLE. I love mine - it's a classic.

Belted cases are not needed on any shouldered, 'modern round post 1908 or earlier. The new range of magnums shows this for those still think the belt does anything other than allowing companies to be sloppy making brass - and they are with belted brass cases. sloppy in chambering and shoulder placement on the case. The 'original', first .375 had no shoulder and needed a belt - even the sloping shouldered .300 H&H and small shouldered .375H&H don't 'need' them - it's just a 'fix' for a non-existant problem. The .35 Rem, .35 Whelen, .375 Whelen and .400 Whelen don't need belts, yet they have less shoulder than either of the H&H rounds. One merely has to know how to handload ammo or in the case of the first two - shoot factory.

Be careful out there, it's a jungle.