I see your point about the cup wad - excellent idea and method. I tried it with donacona wads, but couldn't keep one togeher - break up easily. I suspect I'll have to drill them or punch them when they are held inside a tube or support of some form - easy enough.

Excellent photos by the way. I'm jealous - rifle as well as photos.:-)

Instead of the multi thin disk wads, how about the 1/8" card wads from Track (circle something)

Lube- don't know if I've mentioned this before here, but my favourite lube so far is 60:40 beeswax(good stuff) and vaseline. I know vaseline is a petrolium product, but it works well with black powder. I'm going to try the mix using Olive Oil instead of vaseline some time. I've just finished re-barreling my old '68 Sharps and chambered to .45/60. Will use 500gr.Spitzer and 525gr. Lyman RN. with 55 to 60gr. 1F to 3F. I expect I'll be able to get about 1,350fps with 500gr. and smokeless. That should handle deer, moose and bear. Rifle weighs 12lbs.3oz.
Bit heavy for an old guy liek me - NOT (heavy?)

BTW - there is a new black powder replacement called Black-? 209. The initial report is in the new Handloader magazine. It might just be the ticket for your rifle. if the fouling isn't as corrosive as Pyrodex, perhaps it will be good for our BP Ctg guns and pelters. By the sound of it, it'll be sold in normal cans, but only 1/2 pound per can. It is very bulky and light. For example a full load with shrot 340gr. bullet in a .45/70 was 42gr. and 405gr. was 38gr. for a slightly compressed load. This suggests around 50% to 60%. specific gravity of black powder. It is made in Ontario CDA, by the same outfit who makes IMR powders - apparently. It's marketed now by an outfit in Montana who make or market AA and Ramshot(?) powders