I don't pour lead over the mould but have heard of others doing it. I merely pour the cavity and leave a large pool on top which sometimes runs off the side, sometimes not. I still cast good bullets. If the sprue hardens too quickly, the mould itself is too cool and needs more time sitting on top, or casting to heat it up. I just dump that one into the sprue pot. Once the mould is the correct temperature, I can cast steadily until I've had enough, or have enough bullets or balls.
: Pure lead requires MORE heat than any of the alloys. I run WW alloy around 750. No wonder your REAL bullets are so wrinkled. Notice all the little lines etc, between the grease grooves - too cold - mould and alloy. At 725 to 750, it would be almost impossible to get the mould too hot.
; Martin - try 825 to 850 degrees. Keep that wet towel away from the sprue plate - youre just cooling that down too much. Are you using a lead thermometer or the reading of the dial on top of the electric mould? If using the dial, set it at high until the mould gets too hot - if it does, then turn it down to about 1/2 way between 7 and 8. I've touched the blocks onto a wet towel - never the plate. You want it hot, hotter than the blocks. If it gets too hot and the sprue takes more than about 4 or 5 seconds to solidify, just set the blocks down on a piece of steel for 3 to 5 seconds and you can resume casting. Get into a rythym with the casting and the mould will not get too hot and you'll turn out 150 or more PERFECT bullets per hour. As with anything, it takes practise. Pure lead needs a higher temperature than ANY alloyed lead. If the lead doens't turn a bit blue on top, it isn't hot enough. This is for pure lead only.
; Just goes to show that there is more than 1 way to get it done right. You can replace speed with heat or visa/vis - BUT - the lead must be hot enough to cast a perfect bullet and pure lead HAS to be hotter than the alloys.