Guys, let's see come pictures of your doubles.

I just aquired one, a Kodiak .58 - re-crowned it, lowered the hammers by shortening the nipples to curl the fence properly. I didn't have to cut the hammer noses more deeply as that was well done already - but is a possibility. I filed out the material of the breech plug that raised up behind the nipple seat which created a cup. A cut there is not correct for the design which should allow water or foreign material and cap flash to blow down along the fence. What I ended up with, was a more pleasing shape and improved function, overall. I had to grind a bit on the tumbler to allow the hammers to throw farther forward and also to remove a tich of wood in the right lock inlet so the main spring wouldn't split the wood as it moves slightly below the lock plate. I got the left one perfect and didn't have to remove any wood in it's inlet.

I also blued the lock plates and hammers, tang and pineaple finial ahead of the trigger guard. by rubbing the bluing in hard, it changed the colour of the bright shiny steel quite nicely. I am now happy with the 'trade' I made.

I also re-finished the stock but only 4 thin coats of a mix of tung oil and varnich, called "Circa 1850 Danish Oil". It hardens a bit more and is more water repellent than "Circa 1850 Tung Oil". I'll put on a few more coats after I shoot it today. This oil also hardens faster, more like True Oil in application.

Note the roughness of the bore - looks as if the reamer they used before rifling, hadn't been sharpened in 4 years. This is pretty shabby, but it doesn't foul- 50 shots each bore without having to wipe. I'm currently using a .562" ball with a .022" mattress ticking patch. Easy loading with the 3/8" rod after short starting the ball and patch down 5". This guns seems to regulate quite well - will range test on paper today

Here are the muzzles of my .58 Kodiak. I initially used the RCBS neck chamfer tool with emery on it for the initial angles, but the reamer cut through and cut a grouve around the crown on one barrel. This was smoothed and doesn't harm accuracy at all. I picked up a package of angled stones for the electric drill and with 320 grit emery wrapped around the stone, re-did the crowns, finishing with crocus cloth around the stone, then my thumb as normal. The 'groove' looks bad, but is actually quite smooth and is more of a visual thing than functional. It is less deep than it appears - too much light does that, I guess.

It worked just fine.