Martin- I merely used Birshwood Casey's Perma Blue I think it's called and it's a very blue coloured creme. It also turns your fingers quite Robin Egg blue, so neoprene or latex gloves should be worn.

It works best fresh - ie; squeeze some bluing out of the tube onto the part to be blued, then rub it in well and set that part aside for a while to 'work' and do another. Go back to the part done, wipe it off and re-apply some more, rubbing it in well. I do this several times. The lock plates and hammers take longer to colour than something liek the butt plate, due to their material and/or finish.

Once you are satisfyed with the colour, wipe it with a clean cloth and spray with WD40, rubbing that in as well, with a cloth. That's it.

I also did a quite a lot of filing around the nipple seats, as the seats should not be cupped in metal, as-are Pedersoli's nipple seats. See the lock photo's closeups.

The hammer's neck now curls the fences almost perfectly, much better than factory at least. I filed some off the tops of the nipples, reduced the wrench flats height, and angled their shoulders outside endges to clear the hammer cup sides.

Guess I should take another closeup of a lock to show this work. Total time involved for all the work up to starting to apply the finish, probably 2 hours. It's straight forward and simple - has to be for me. Oh, I use an orbital sander, BTW as that speeds things up tremendously. I used a very aggressive, heavily toothed wood rasp that I call "JAWS", for removing the cheek piece. I have to keep the tip wrapped in duct tape for about 4 layers as it will draw blood. The points don't stop, even on caluses.