Tanner moulds do not have a sprue cutter. They fit normal Lyman or RCBS-type handles. I've had to remove a bit of metal from the inside surface of some handles, others, not. A few swipes of a file is all that's needed - sometimes.

The blocks come with screws for attachment.
I will edit to include a picture or two.

These are the wire strippers I use for cutting off the sprues. The white handled ones are the best, as they are flat on one side. I use the smallest hole for cutting and twist the cutter as I snip off the sprue. This leaves virtually no spure at all, allowing the ball to be loaded as it comes out of the bag, not having to orient the sprue as-is normal.

With WW balls, smacking the handle hinge pin a few times with a wooden dowel(I use a hickory hammer handle) usually breaks off the spure at the juncture of the ball, making later removal of the sprue not needed, but it does leave a tiny divot - which doesn't seem to make any difference in accuracy with large balls.

One further point about these 'special' moulds as well as all the rest of my moulds. I spray wthem with MS Moly, the bullet moly spray. This prevents lead from sticking to the moulds, allows Lee moulds to close. line up and lock-up perfectly. Rapine sells a mould prep which is a graphite solution that sticks to the mould and does a similar job. Hoppe's has a moly spray that works as well as the other two, but Birchwood Casey's wipes off easily and doesn't work well.