The paper patches, ie: ctgs. work well, BUT - they will foul the bore after a given number of shots. The have to be a very snug fit int he bore, and the bulk of paper must be compressed between the ball and the powder charge to seal the powder gassses behind the ball.

A .715" ball, in a .720" bore would leave only .005" clearance in a smooth bore with barely any compression. Since the gun is a rifle, you have to measure the groove diameter, side to side, then subtract the ball's diameter. We usually load for from .005" to .010" compression of the patched ball in the bottom of the grooves, not the bore.

So - if the bore is .720" and the rifling is .006", the rifle has a .732" groove diameter. .732" subtract .715", leaves .017" for patching, or .0085" per side. This thin a patch, even up to .015" is too thin as they don't carry enough lube to keep fouling soft. So - best to go with a .710" ball for the Pedersoli's shallow rifling, and an 8oz. denim (.017" to .019") patch. .710" + .018" = .018" = .746", which gives .007" compression per side in the bottom of the groove. This load will seal, even with heavy loads. Use pure lead only. If wanting to use harder lead, you'll have to go to a smaller ball and a thicker patch.

For example, in my 14 bore(.690"), if I want to use a WW ball, I either have to use a paper ctg. or a 15 bore(.675") ball, which is .015" smaller than the bore. Not much, but it's enough. I use a 12 oz. denim patch, the same as I use with the .684" ball, which measures .025" using the mic. Patches are reusable if re-lubed - mink oil, bear oil, marmot oil, spit, or any other good lube.

Moulds of any size are available from Jeff Tanner, in England. google; tanner moulds.

For an idea on muzzle crown, you could go to the picture I posted in the .62 Jaeger thread. When they look like this, they are much easier to load with descent ball and patch combinations, which shoot accurately, and shoot cleanly, with no wiping needed.