First, here are some tests I shot with the 270 Speer:

http://forums.gunboards.com/showthread.php?t=1264

http://forums.gunboards.com/showthread.php?t=1245

I have never used the 270 Speer on game but it appears to a pretty good bullet for the 9.3x57 from the tests I've done. I still have a hoard of 285 Prvi's I use on game.

Paul:

This I don't consider OT considering it is a common problem with Husky's {and many Mauser sporters from what I'm told}. Tang area cracks are routinely fixed on Husqvarnas. What I mean is, if a guy can't fix Husky tang cracks he better buy Remingtons or golf clubs! Used ones VERY frequently are cracked there.

My fix is simple;

Remove barreled action. Drill holes in the cracked area from the area inside the action inletting where they cannot be seen from the top. Get a syringe that fits the holes and inject Acraglas gel into the holes while at the same time GENTLY spreading the stock open with a wooden wedge or some other method {prying with the ball end of a ballpeen hammer, etc, whatever works, there are "sreader" clamps that work, too}.

When the gel oozes out of the crack at the top, clamp the stock together at the wrist and wipe off the oozed out gel with a rag dampened with paint thinner.

The only tricky part is that you will have some flowback into the tang area. You can either pack the hole openings there with tape, toilet paper or a combination {or something else that gets the job done OR you can plug the holes with the action itself by bedding the tang area at the same time you fill the holes which is IMHO the best way to do it.

If you bed the action which is my preference, MAKE SURE THE WRIST IS FIRMLY CLAMPED BEFORE YOU SET THE ACTION INTO THE STOCK or the action will spread the stock and "advertise" the wrist repair!

Once all hardens, you remove the stock and take a piece of 100 grit sandpaper and wrap it around a dowel and carefully round out the area behind the tang, opening it so there is no contact between it and the action tang.

Voila, done!

NO NEED for cross bolts thru the tang area {brass screws, bolts, dowels, etc} that are unsightly and in the worst case can actually weaken the stock badly. The above-described repair is frequently invisible from the top {sometimes the gel can be seen, so dye it properly according to directions} but properly-filled with Acraglas gel you will have a very strong repair, probably far stronger than the wood was to start with!