I want a matte synthetic finish on it. Duane uses a product called Ship n' Shore by Seafin as his synthetic finish.

Here it is straight from the horses mouth;

"I wrote to the English Gun Companies and asked "How do you finish with linseed oil?" They answered! First cleanse and whisker with oxalic acid. Soak in linseed oil in which a little Japan drier is added. When it's not QUITE set up, scrub off across grain with a mixture of linseed oil and rottonstone..repeat and repeat. As time went on, I modified the formula a bit. I now cleanse and whisker as mentioned, then soak with "Ship and Shore" sealer...keep applying until the wood will take no more. A week later repeat. Now I apply linseed oil and add COBALT drier (Grumbacher sells this to artists) Use just a little of the drier, a couple drops to a teaspoon or so. It will set up pretty fast, so keep an eye on it. When sticky, scrub off as mentioned with the rottenstone. This is not a quickie, but you'll end up with a dry, hard finish that is the envy of gun nuts and it's easily patched up. I used this on my 338 that went to Africa twice..no bleeding, no tacky..no nuthin, except a beautiful finish. A word of caution: Both Japan and Cobalt driers must be used with caution, since the lead or cobalt will pass thru skin pores and find it's way to the liver. Use rubber gloves...when dry, there is nothing to worry about." (quote by Duane Wiebe from AR)

Natural oil finishes look nice but, IMO, lack the protection that a synthetic offers and since this will be a hunting rifle I want the extra protection. Still have time to change my mind but doubt I will.

Does anyone know how to make the picture bigger? Lots of the detail is lost with the small picture I posted.

Thanks for the compliments.