Good point about stock issues in thin stocks - a proper glass bedding may be in order if this is an issue.
Couple methods I use on heavy kickers is to relieve the recoil lug area to allow a thin, 1/8" steel plate to be glass bedded in that area, side to side and top of the recoil plate to bottom. I cross-hatch the rear of the plate to get a good bond against the wood - even to drilling holes through it. Another method is to cut a groove across the top of recoil plate's wood in the stock, and set in glass, crosswise, a section of threaded rod (piece fo screw or screw stock) about 10x24 thread. This would be 1/2 way behind the recoil face there the action's recoil lug, then the action's recoil area is bed to the action in normal fashion. The rear tang is also bed in glass & can be relieved at the rear, or not, as if bed properly, the action cannot move back to split the tang. The only way a tang can split,is if the action moves under recoil - properly bed, there is no movement.

If there is a steel tube runing top to bottom at the rear gaurd screww, it should be removed as it can be a stock splitter if not solidly bed. If it is roughed up and classed into the rear screw hold in the same manner as a pillar bedded device, it is OK to leave. Antoher way is to gring the steel tube down to be below both top and bottom wood surfaces if one wishes to leave it, but it is not needed in that area. Both screws should not touch any surface, front, sides or rear for best accuracy. To avoid wood compression, glass bedding top and bottom cures that possibility.