Well the frames are kind of thin looking but seem to be heavy enough. Now keep in mind that I haven't built anything more powerful than the 9.3x74r on a shotgun frame. I've been thinking of a 450#2 on an exposed hammer frame I have but haven't progressed there yet.

Anyway as i said the fram is on the thinner side but i truly beleive that the problem is in the fact that the gun has 1 bite and it's not a very large bite at that. If you want I can get exact measurements of the action and the bite, it will just take me a day or so. I think if you are going to to try to take a production shotgun action and build a DR off of that action you would be better off going with the CZ (Huglu) actions. They have 2 underbites and a crossbolt and can be had from $500-$900 depending on the model you pick up.

In your other post you said you were getting Brown's book on building DR's on shottie actions. I'd say that will handle a lot of your questions, but I should say that there are allot that don't totally agree with his methods/ideas.

The first double I ever made was a 38-55 built on a Lefever Notro Express 20 ga action. Lets say that it wasn't successful with full power loads but is fun to shoot with black powder to this day. I guess what I'm trying to say that you can build a DR on just about any action if you are prepared to live with constraints for safety purposes. However you also have to remember not to forget the finished project and exactly how useful it will be to you for the time, work and money you have invested.

As I said above the CZ actions seems to make a great conversion. We built the one for my father-in-law for about $1,100. Works well but in the end it doesn't seem to have the "soul" that my 9.3x74r on the Merkel Model 8 frame has. That gun I built for about $1,500. All a matter of what you're looking for.

Now I mean no offense but the inline double mussloader has absolutely zero interest for me so I'll let you to speculate and test on that subject.

BB