I think you don't get it at all. The grinding of the muzzles, per a great many reports, resulted in many dissatisfied owners, with largely worthless rifles. Not "cheaper double rifles in the price range for the common working man". They created very expensive worthless rifles. Whether $3000 or $300,000, a double rifle with two greatly varying points of impacts is an annoying rifle with two sets of barrels, At best one barrel would only work at quite close ranges, The other barrel might be sighted in for longer ranges. A single shot might be a better rifle.

It isnt the "traditional" method of regulation. It IS the way a double rifle is regulated. The gunmaker temporary fixes the barrels and test shoots it, adjusting the angles of the barrels to each other, at the rear and at the muzzles. Until the two points of impact are parallel at the chosen distance. Then the barrels are affixed, soldered etc. A rib fitted.

The Heym regulator gunmaker told me they use a seven second delay between each shot. The heat of the barrels and expansion and contraction, affects the point of impacts.

My Tikka under and over is a self regulating double rifle. The barrels are separated. There is a wedge towards the rear of the barrels which affects the vertical point of impact. There is another at the muzzles affecting horizontal POI.

For a side by side, the rear affects horizontal movement. The muzzle verticle POI movement.

I've never had to adjust the muzzle wedge, I did adjust the rear wedge. From memory The locking screw is loosened. The wedge is moved forwards or backwards using a screw, from memory. Very small movements. Increasing or decreasing the angle between the barrels. When I had it at 25 mm at 90 metres (or 30 mm at 100 m, I forget), two small two shot groups, an inch apart. I locked the wedge in place. The muzzles are roughly 30 mm apart.

Btw I've never test shot it at 200 m to see how shoots. I should do so. I might this year. I should know how well both barrels shoot at longer ranges. And if needed how well one barrel, the top barrel shoots at all reasonable ranges.

Back to grinding the muzzles. I asked so many questions for clarity. In order to understand factually if this example of presumably ground muzzles worked or not. None of the questions were answered.

I'm not having a go at you, but NitroExpress.com is a forum for factual DR information. A good place for a factual discussion on the butchering/grindingbof muzzles.

As for affordable double rifles, proper regulation does cost money. One reason some brands are cheap is that they aren't regulated properly, test shot etc. Maybe the barrels set together using some predetermined formaula?

One way to get a less expensive double rifle is with the separated barrels self regulating DRs. They don't look as good but work.

***

I'm more than happy for experienced gunmakers to chime in, pro or con. Correcting me or supporting me.

But based on dissatisfied customer reports, many of them, the Dremel muzzle grinding does NOT work, If it does I'm assuming more arse luck than skill.

I'd like to see some images just how they grinded/ground the muzzles? I think I saw some photos years ago.

How does grinding of the rifling affect accuracy? Usually people advise protecting the muzzle crowns as it is claimed it has great influence on accuracy. Even cleaning of a rifled barrel from the muzzle is inadvisable when it can be avoided.