| twobobbwana |
| (.333 member) |
| 05/12/18 12:42 PM |
Re: Questions On Building Double Rifles
|
Pugwash,
Thanks for your input. I find this fascinating.
What you say about leaving more meat in the action for weight etc makes any amount of sense...."Weight between the hands" is where it's at for handling. I've read about the greater diameter of hinge pins before and have seen posted photos (possibly by Dewey Vicknair) of the greater action width/thickness and am sure this adds to the longevity of the rifle. I have seen pictures in Ellis Brown's book showing the differences in action thickness with double rifle actions.
Looking at the amount of material removed from a boxlock action for hammers, cocking levers/rods etc I cannot understand how people believe them to be stronger than a sidelock.
Given that there have been many successful double rifles built on shotgun actions one wonders how much material has to be in these areas while still resulting in a durable double rifle. I do understand that there have been failures in making double rifles on shotgun actions...……….as there has been in any endeavour.
"A gun is only as good as the quality of it's jointing" is another comment I've read. Makes any amount of sense as the better quality of the bearing/jointing the more stresses are shared and the less likely it will "kick itself to pieces".
Very interesting your comment about more material between the lumps. I had not considered it and this may well be the origin of guns being "long in the bar" being durable/strong.
Vick Venters wrote an article about "Jointing and the Circle" (???) and he mentioned the details re hinge pin diameter and the critical nature of jointing double rifles. If I recall correctly he mentioned that the rear draw (rear lug bearing surface) should come into play to take the pressure off the hinge pin so that it doesn't try to push the hinge pin out of the gun. I believe the comment/implication was that the rear draw had to come into play but not cause the rifle to be hard to open/close. I apologise to Vic if I'm misquoting him.
The replaceable rear draw insert makes wonderful sense as it allows the rifle to be rejointed and maintain bearing on the rear draw (if this is the correct terminology)...………..something you couldn't do with a shotgun/rifle that does not have this facility. Meaning that changing the hinge pin, for a larger diameter one, in effect pushes the rear draw/bearing out of contact and the replaceable draw brings the draw back into contact with the front face of the rear lug.
Please don't take these comments as arguing. I don't pretend to be an authority …...pretty much on anything...…...I'm just kicking these thoughts around.
One again thank you for sharing your knowledge Pugwash.